Nino Franco Winery

Nino Franco WineryTiny bubbles, in the wine
Make me happy (make me happy)
Make me feel fine (make me feel fine)
Tiny bubbles (tiny bubbles)
Make me warm all over.

Don Ho certainly appreciated sparkling wine, and I’m here to encourage you to do the same. There are plenty of reasonably priced bubblies available, so there is no need to save them for a special occasion (although that works too).

First, some clarification. Legally, only those sparkling wines produced in France’s Champagne region, a viticultural area 90 miles northeast of Paris, can be called Champagne. All other sparkling wines, i.e. spumante, prosecco, crémant, sparklers from California, are well…sparkling wine.

And that’s what Nino Franco Winery makes in Valdobbiadene in Italy’s Veneto region. Vines are grown only on the most sunny parts of the hills, at altitudes varying between 150 and 1500 feet above sea level, while the north-facing slopes are covered mainly in woodland.

The climate throughout the area is mild, with not excessively cold winters and warm summers, which is when the nobility of Venice likes to visit.

The Franco winery was founded here in 1919 by Antonio Franco. Under his son Nino the winery expanded its operations and markets. Primo, the third generation proprietor, currently oversees operations with his daughter Silvia.

Primo Franco took his diploma of oenology at the Scuola di Enologia in Conegliano (Veneto). He then decided to develop his own approach to the growth of the vines and the production of prosecco at this modern winery. Since October 1990 Primo has utilized non-traditional cultivation techniques combined with the use of old varietal clones. He also invested in the production process in order to eliminate all those wines that were atypical for the area.

Nino Franco Rustico Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG NV

This is a brut, or quite dry, prosecco. It is very pale yellow in the flute, with rather coarse bubbles that quickly dissipate. It features flavors of traditional green apple and a hint of ginger ale. With a medium body and a clean finish, this would be excellent as an apertivo. Drink this young and lively prosecco soon after purchase.

This wine wants to be served with appetizers, such as a classic Bruschetta, Tomatoes Stuffed with Shrimp, or Grilled Mussels and Clams on the Half Shell.

Nino Franco Faìve Rosè Brut Spumante NV

Faìve [fieEEve] is Italian for those sparks and tongues whipping about at the top of a fire, which gives this copper-hued wine its name. Another product of Primo Franco’s restlessness, Faìve is an untraditional blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, both cold soaked on the skins.

The nose appropriately recalls dried red rose petals, with a bit of vanilla and honey. The taste is nicely balanced: dry, with lively acidity, black cherry fruit, a hint of tannic bitterness, and plenty of bubbles, of course.

Despite its color, this is a wine for savory dishes, like Risotto with Clams, Fricasseed Chicken with Egg and Lemon, or Frittata with Tomato, Onion, and Basil.

https://www.ninofranco.it/en/

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Lasseter Family Winery

Lasseter Family WineryUn Travail d’Amour

John and Nancy Lasseter are long-time francophiles, and over the years have traveled extensively in France. It was there that they developed their appreciation of and fondness for Old-World style wines.

It was with some irony then that in 1993 they moved to Sonoma (with Napa, the very heart of “New World” style wines) and began dabbling in amateur winemaking. In 2002, they went all-in when they purchased a badly neglected local winery and 27-acre vineyard property.

This sad state of affairs allowed them to start from scratch, however. The land was restored to natural habitat and good health. The vineyards were converted to 100% organic farming practices, supported by a natural eco-system that includes beehives, owl boxes, and insectaires. A new eco-friendly winery building was completed in 2011.

In addition to wine, the Lasseters have a passion for the arts, and they try to bring an artistic sensibility to the winemaking. They commissioned local painter Dennis Ziemienski to create the label art. They consider their winemaker, Julia Iantosca (one of only a handful of female winemakers), to also be an artist in the way she uses her skills to handcraft the signature blends favored by the Lasseters.

Lasseter Family Winery is a genuine boutique operation. The total production of the four wines currently available is just 1445 cases. It is truly a labor of love.

Lasseter Enjoué 2011

None of my friends like rosés, but I’ve never understood why. What’s not to like? They routinely offer delightful color, plenty of flavor, and great versatility. And so it is with this Lasseter Enjoué (meaning joyful, playful, etc.)

The pale salmon-pink color comes from using red grapes (in this case, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre, the classic Rhone GSM trio, sourced from the seven-acre Justi Creek Block) in a white-wine style. Both the nose and the taste suggest strawberry, ruby grapefruit, and lime. There is plenty of acidity, so it will work with a wide variety of foods.

Dine al fresco and enjoy a bottle of Enjoué with Coquilles St. Jacques, Tuna with Wine, Tomatoes, and Herbs, or Pork and Veal Pâté.

 Lasseter Chemin de Fer 2010

All aboard! ‘Chemin de Fer’ is French for railroad, and the name recalls a memorable train trip the Lasseters took through southern France many years ago. Although in different proportions, this wine is made with the same Justi Creek Block GSM as is the Enjoué, showing just how varied winemaking can be.

In the glass, Chemin de Fer is transparent ruby in color. The nose features aromas of dark cherry and spice. True to the Lasseters’ preference for an Old-World style, on the palate the wine is dry and lean, with flavors of dark fruit. Structure is provided by plenty of acid and tannins, and the wine has a long smooth finish. Be sure to decant this wine and give it up to two hours to breathe.

Couple Chemin de Fer with Chicken Sautéed with Herbs and Garlic, Coq au Vin, or Pan-broiled Steak.

https://www.lasseterfamilywinery.com/

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Rietvallei Wine Estate

Rietvallei Wine EstateRosés Are Red, My Love…

…Cabernets are too. These two cabs come from the Rietvallei Wine Estate, located in the Robertson region of South Africa, outside of Johannesburg. This warm, low-rainfall area has excellent lime-rich soils, and is usually known for white wine, sherry, and brandy.

The Rietvallei Estate was founded in 1864 by the Burger family, and for many decades only produced red muscadel (also known as muscat), a sweet dessert wine. The estate’s house style was based on a recipe still to be found nailed behind the cellar door.

Today overseen by sixth generation winemaker Kobus Burger, Rietvallei began to expand its offerings a few years ago. A Chardonnay was first released in 1987, followed by a Sauvignon Blanc in 2001. The selections now include a number of other whites and reds as well.

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This easy-drinking cabernet will appeal most to those who like a lighter style of wine. Although the wine is very dark, the flavor is soft, more like a merlot than a cab. There is also a hint of sweetness as well as tartness. The aroma in the glass, or “nose,” is quite delicate. The finish is short, reflecting the low level of tannins. Enjoy this with a wide range of not too assertive foods, including fish and ‘burgers.

Rietvallei Juanita Rosé 2005

A fruity but quite dry rosé made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. A nice tart refreshing taste. Should pair well with any food where sauvignon blanc would be the more usual choice.

https://www.rietvallei.co.za/

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Maison M. Chapoutier

Maison M. ChapoutierThe Rhone Ranger

Thanksgiving is next week, and these two wines would be very appropriate for the holiday feast (Christmas and Hanukkah, too!)

Maison M. Chapoutier is a winery and négociant business located in Tain-l’Hermitage in the Rhône region in southeastern France. (Négociant is the French term for a wine merchant who assembles the produce of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result under its own name.) Chapoutier produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, in a wide spectrum of varietals, styles, and price points. The house has holdings in Portugal and Australia, as well.

Polydor Chapoutier established the business in 1879, and it has remained family-owned ever since. Yet despite its long history, by the late 1970s the winery was languishing, the wines weren’t selling, and the firm was in danger of bankruptcy.

In 1990, at age 26, Michel Chapoutier took control, after studying oenology in both France and California. In the intervening years he has transformed the winery into one of the leading Rhône Valley producers. He combines the traditional and the modern, being an early advocate of organic and biodynamic winemaking. He pruned back the vineyards and boldly reduced yields from 2.6 tons per acre to 1.8 tons per acre for both red and white wines. Industrial chemicals, fertilizers, and sprays were eliminated. Grapes are now harvested by hand and only natural yeasts are used to produce unfiltered wines.

Critic Robert Parker has called Chapoutier “one of the most influential wine personalities of the last 20 years.”

Chapoutier’s wine labels are distinctive because of their inclusion of Braille writing on all labels since 1996. The information presented in Braille includes the producer, the vintage, the vineyard, the region, and the color of the wine.

Belleruche Rosé 2012

This wine is a fruit-forward blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, with a brilliant copper-salmon color. The nose is predominantly aromas of strawberries. On the palette, expect hints of cream soda and grapefruit (yeah, it does work). There is plenty of zippy acidity, as well.

Give this wine a try with a Tomato and Onion Tart, Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.

Belleruche Rouge 2011

Like most European wines, this lean, fruit-recessive selection is ‘food’ wine, made to drink at the dinner table, not with a pre-meal chat.

Belleruche Rouge is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, and was fermented and aged in vats. It is dark garnet red in the glass, with a subtle nose where no dominant aroma jumps out. The palette has an earthy quality, and features tastes of Morello cherries and black tea. The tannins offer plenty of support, but the finish is rather short.

Enjoy this wine with Wild Mushroom Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts, Beef Stew with Turnips, or Cassoulet.

https://www.chapoutier.com/en/

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