Reviews of wines and spirits for the curious drinker.
Doyle Hinman and David Smith opened Hinman Vineyards in 1979. By 1988, the winery had become Oregon’s top selling winery. In 1993, Hinman started releasing their premium line of reserve wines under the Silvan Ridge label, relegating Hinman to second-tier status.
River’s Edge Winery is located in the northern-most part of the Umpqua Valley. River’s Edge, founded in 1998, specializes in the production of cool weather varieties such as Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer. The ocean is only 36 miles away from the winery, and morning fog frequently shrouds the vineyards even in the summer, reflecting the strong marine influence on the climate. Continue reading “River’s Edge Pinot Gris”
Mixed Meadia’s whole premise is Door County and Wisconsin-grown ingredients, cold-climate grapes, native fermentation, and minimal-intervention winemaking. It produces wine, mead, and cider inside the Hatch Distilling Co. facility.
Wisconsin native Thomas J. (Tim) Lawrie had a 26-year career in the U.S. Army, including two tours in Vietnam as a combat officer, and was awarded the Purple Heart. He served as an Army Infantry Airborne soldier before finally retiring with the rank of Colonel. After which, he was almost universally referred to as, “The Colonel,” a somewhat surprising affectation for a Northerner, I think. As with most military personnel, he had assignments throughout the country, including California, where he acquired an interest in wine and wine production. Continue reading “Simon Creek Tempranillo”
Eric and Amy Gale are the owners and sole full-time employees of Anchored Roots winery, founded in 2020 in Door County, Wisconsin.
The couple make an ideal front-of-house/back-of-house duo. Amy grew up in Milwaukee, with hospitality at the forefront of her career path. Her initial focus was event planning, from non-profit fundraisers and catering, to corporate events and weddings. This was followed by experience in tasting room management at Airfield Estates in Prosser, Washington.
The story of Parallel 44 Vineyard & Winery began in 2005, when husband and wife team Steve Johnson and Maria Milano planted their first grape vines. Steve grew up in Green Bay, where his father Carl experimented early on with growing grapes. Maria grew up in Stevens Point, Wisconsin, where her Italian-born father continued his tradition of making wine for friends and family celebrations. Steve and Maria met while in school at the University of Wisconsin in Madison, and then attended law school together. While working as attorneys, they attended seminars on grape growing in Wisconsin, with an eye towards getting into the wine business.
After years of searching for a location with the soil, sun exposure, and temperatures for growing grapes, they found the location that Parallel 44 now sits on. Originally, it was a simple corn field and former gravel pit. As soon as they purchased the land, they began to plant vines, a novel idea at the time.
A year after the vineyard was planted, in 2006 construction was started on the winery and tasting room. Since opening on Memorial Day weekend in 2007, Parallel 44 has continued to grow and expand. Today, all of the wines produced by Parallel 44 are either made with grapes grown in their own vineyards, or at one of the vineyards that the winery contracts with throughout the state of Wisconsin and the Upper Midwest.
To capitalize on the resort trade, Steve and Maria decided in 2013 to open a second location, located in Door County forty miles due north, where tens of thousands of tourists flock each summer.
The vineyard is situated on 44° north latitude (hence the name), which is renowned for the world’s finest grape growing and winemaking regions, such as Bordeaux in France, and Tuscany in Italy. Parallel 44 shares many similarities with these regions, such as seasonal growing period, annual rainfall, and length of daylight. But, a big difference from their European counterparts is that Parallel 44 suffers through winters of subzero temperatures, adding the challenge of growing grapes on the “frozen tundra” of Wisconsin.
Johnson and Milano decided to forgo the classic European varietals we are all familiar with, knowing that the vines would struggle to even survive the harsh northern Wisconsin winters, much less thrive.
So, they turned their attention to cold-climate grape varietals available for commercial planting, of which there were only a few. Most of the varietals were quite new to the world of wine and were less than 20 years old. Undetered, Steve and Maria carried on with their dream and today, 15 years later, there are approximately 7000 vines on 10 acres planted at Parallel 44.
The grape varietals they grow are known as “cool climate grapes.” This means that some of the vines can withstand temperatures as low as -36° F in winter, but as summer approaches they spring back to life!
These cool-climate varietals have the hallmark qualities of bright acidity, fruit forward aromas, and flavors that are unique to the region. Some of these varietals are Marechal Foch, Frontenac, Louise Swenson, St. Pepin, and Petite Pearl. These are the genetic cousins of such well-known varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Moscato, and Riesling.
This expression is a blend of 39% Frontenac Blanc, 30% La Crescent, and 31% Itasca.
This wine pours a bright lemon yellow. The nose offers melon, grapefruit, and spring flowers. On the palate, it delivers more of the same, adding some lemon as well. There is plenty of zippy acidity. The ABV is 13.1%.
This wine is part of The Ledge Blanc Project. Read more about that here.
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Mixed Meadia’s whole premise is Door County and Wisconsin-grown ingredients, cold-climate grapes, native fermentation, and minimal-intervention winemaking. It produces wine, mead, and cider inside the Hatch Distilling Co. facility.
Eric and Amy Gale are the owners and sole full-time employees of Anchored Roots, Door County, Wisconsin’s newest winery, founded in 2020.
The couple make an ideal front-of-house/back-of-house duo. Amy grew up in Milwaukee, with hospitality at the forefront of her career path. Her initial focus was event planning, from non-profit fundraisers and catering, to corporate events and weddings. This was followed by experience in tasting room management at Airfield Estates in Prosser, Washington.
The Ledge Blanc Project
The Ledge Blanc Project is much more ambitious than simply three Door County wineries deciding to put the same name on a white wine. It is an attempt to create a signature appellation wine for the entire Wisconsin Ledge AVA—something consumers can eventually associate with northeastern Wisconsin in the way certain wine styles become identified with particular European or American regions.
Harbor Ridge Field Blend 2022
Harbor Ridge Winery in Egg Harbor, Wisconsin, was established in 2010, making it a relatively recent addition to Door County’s wine scene. Its original releases were Knockin’ Heads Red and Mademoiselle, and the winery has subsequently built a portfolio of more than 20 wines ranging from dry barrel-aged reds to Riesling, rosé, cherry wine and sweeter blends. The sweeter selections are largely aimed at the tourist trade.
This Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon comes from an Iowa farm boy who amassed enough wealth as a northern California industrialist that he was able to realize his dream of becoming a winery owner.
Along with the primary grape, it features 11% Cabernet Franc and 9% Syrah, both of which enhance its structure. There is also a very slight sweetness reminiscent of cassis and raisins, as well as a hint of licorice. The lingering and pronounced tannins will appeal to some, while others will want to hold this wine in the cellar for three or four years to allow the tannins to soften. The inky density and good legs suggest such patience will be rewarded. Let this wine breathe for 30 minutes or so before pouring. Then, serve with mildly seasoned pork or chicken.
Back to blog posts: winervana.com/blog/
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is one of the genuinely consequential wineries in American wine history. It is not simply a famous Napa Cabernet producer: its 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon was the wine that finished first in the red-wine portion of the 1976 Judgment of Paris, an event that fundamentally changed international perceptions of California wine. The winning bottle is now part of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History collection.
In the history of wine in California, one event stands out as a defining moment: the Paris Tasting of 1976. This blind tasting, organized by British wine expert Steven Spurrier, pitted California wines against the finest offerings from France’s Bordeaux and Burgundy regions. The outcome sent shockwaves through the wine industry and forever altered the perception of California wine on the global stage.
Torres Brandy is the spirits arm of Familia Torres, the large, still-family-controlled Catalan wine company founded in 1870. The spirits division is now formally presented as Juan Torres Master Distillers, and brandy production dates to 1928.