Red blend Archives

Keuka Spring Epic Reserve Finger Lakes Red Wine 2016

Long before California became America’s leading winemaking state, plenty of wine was being made in New York. The Hugeunots, a French Protestant sect of the 16th and 17th centuries, planted grapevines there in the 1600s. The first commercial plantings of native American grape varieties began in 1862. Shortly thereafter, the area established a reputation for making sweet sparkling wines, and by the end of the 19th century plantings had increased to around 25,000 acres.

In the early 20th century, production declined sharply as a result of phylloxera vine disease, competition from California wines, and Prohibition. After that scourge ended, production resumed but the rebound was moderate. Further limiting production, after World War II Americans began to develop a taste for the drier wines made from the European Vitis vinifera grape varieties dominant in California. Unlike in California, however, it was believed that these grape varieties would not survive in the harsh New York winters.

In 1951 Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant with a PhD degree in Plant Science, came to work at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York, with the goal of growing Vitis vinifera varietals in the cold Finger Lakes climate. This was unheard of — and laughed at — back then. Other winemakers predicted failure. “What do you mean?” Frank retorted. “I’m from Russia — it’s even colder there.” With support from Charles Fournier of Gold Seal Vineyards, a sparkling wine producer, he began planting Vitis vinifera vines in 1958. In 1962 Dr. Frank started Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport, at the far southern end of Keuka lake, where he began to successfully produce Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürtztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Rkatsiteli (the most widely-planted white-wine grape in the countries of the former Soviet Union). Plantings of these varieties spread throughout the region and new wineries soon emerged. Continue reading “Keuka Spring Epic Reserve”

The Rhone Ranger

Thanksgiving is next week, and these two wines would be very appropriate for the holiday feast (Christmas and Hanukkah, too!)

Maison M. Chapoutier is a winery and négociant business located in Tain-l’Hermitage in the Rhône region in southeastern France. (Négociant is the French term for a wine merchant who assembles the produce of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result under its own name.) Chapoutier produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, in a wide spectrum of varietals, styles, and price points. The house has holdings in Portugal and Australia, as well.

Polydor Chapoutier established the business in 1879, and it has remained family-owned ever since. Yet despite its long history, by the late 1970s the winery was languishing, the wines weren’t selling, and the firm was in danger of bankruptcy.

In 1990, at age 26, Michel Chapoutier took control, after studying oenology in both France and California. In the intervening years he has transformed the winery into one of the leading Rhône Valley producers. He combines the traditional and the modern, being an early advocate of organic and biodynamic winemaking. He pruned back the vineyards and boldly reduced yields from 2.6 tons per acre to 1.8 tons per acre for both red and white wines. Industrial chemicals, fertilizers, and sprays were eliminated. Grapes are now harvested by hand and only natural yeasts are used to produce unfiltered wines.

Critic Robert Parker has called Chapoutier “one of the most influential wine personalities of the last 20 years.”

Chapoutier’s wine labels are distinctive because of their inclusion of Braille writing on all labels since 1996. The information presented in Braille includes the producer, the vintage, the vineyard, the region, and the color of the wine.

Belleruche Rosé 2012

This wine is a fruit-forward blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, with a brilliant copper-salmon color. The nose is predominantly aromas of strawberries. On the palette, expect hints of cream soda and grapefruit (yeah, it does work). There is plenty of zippy acidity, as well.

Give this wine a try with a Tomato and Onion Tart, Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.

Belleruche Rouge 2011

Like most European wines, this lean, fruit-recessive selection is ‘food’ wine, made to drink at the dinner table, not with a pre-meal chat.

Belleruche Rouge is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, and was fermented and aged in vats. It is dark garnet red in the glass, with a subtle nose where no dominant aroma jumps out. The palette has an earthy quality, and features tastes of Morello cherries and black tea. The tannins offer plenty of support, but the finish is rather short.

Enjoy this wine with Wild Mushroom Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts, Beef Stew with Turnips, or Cassoulet.

www.chapoutier.com/en/

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A Note About Vintages

Although you will see vintage dates throughout Winervana, I don’t put too much importance on them. Major producers these days strive for a consistent style, and largely succeed. For instance, when shopping for a particular wine, if you have a choice between a current release and one that’s a few years old, there will certainly be differences in price and the character of the wine. But upon release, those two examples of the same wine are likely to be quite similar, especially for New World producers, who often enjoy more reliably consistent weather than Old World producers do. (Of course, global climate change may disrupt things for everybody.)

Wine Enthusiast has an interesting post about this here.