Germain-Robin XO Brandy

Germain Robin XO Brandy
Germain Robin XO Brandy. Click here for tasting notes.

Germain-Robin XO Brandy

The Maverick That Redefined American Brandy

In the world of fine spirits, few American producers have challenged Old World orthodoxy as boldly—or as successfully—as Germain-Robin. Long before “craft distilling” became a marketing buzzword, Germain-Robin was quietly rewriting the rules of brandy in Northern California, proving that greatness didn’t have to come from Cognac to rival it.

The story begins in 1982 with an unlikely partnership between Ansley Coale, a California rancher and former academic, and Hubert Germain-Robin, a French distiller from a Cognac-producing family dating back to the 18th century. Their meeting—reportedly by chance along a California highway while Germain-Robin was hitchhiking—sparked a shared vision: to apply traditional French distillation techniques to exceptional California wine grapes.

That decision changed everything.

Breaking from Cognac Tradition

At a time when most brandy production relied heavily on neutral, high-acid grapes like Ugni Blanc, Germain Robin took a radically different approach. They sourced premium varietals—Pinot Noir, Colombard, Sémillon, and even Zinfandel—from Mendocino County vineyards.

This wasn’t just innovation for innovation’s sake. These grapes, prized for fine winemaking, brought depth, aromatics, and character rarely seen in brandy. The distillery then paired this fruit quality with classic Charentais pot still distillation and long aging in Limousin oak—essentially marrying California terroir with Cognac craftsmanship.

The result? A spirit that felt at once familiar and entirely new.

By the 1990s, Germain-Robin had achieved cult status among collectors and connoisseurs. Their brandies were even poured at state functions, including presidential events—an extraordinary validation for an American upstart in a category dominated by centuries-old European houses.

Under the ownership of E. & J. Gallo Winery since 2017, the brand continues to build on its legacy, preserving rare stocks of aged brandy while expanding its reach to a broader audience.

Germain-Robin XO Brandy

Germain-Robin XO stands as the definitive expression of the house style—a layered, fruit-driven brandy that showcases both innovation and restraint. It was created by the brand’s co-founder Hubert Germain-Robin and Gallo’s master distiller David Warter.

The closure on the bottle is an elegant, but somewhat difficult to remove, glass stopper.  The brandy is, predictably, clear amber in the glass.  Double distilled exclusively in Prulho Charentais alembic pot stills and aged extensively in French Limousin oak barrels, this XO highlights the unique flavor and characteristics of California Pinot Noir, supported by Colombard and Sémillon grapes.

Pruhlo Charentais pot still
A Prulho Charentais pot still

The primary grape, Pinot Noir, provides a dark cherry character and a rich silky mouthfeel. Colombard distillate adds a fresh apple character while Sémillon provides richness with peach and apricot notes.  The vanilla and toast flavors from the French oak complement the fruit with layers of complexity, and yield a spirit that balances ripe fruit expression with structure, spice, and remarkable finesse..  Texturally, the brandy is extremely smooth and has a very long finish.  5400 bottles produced in 2020. ABV is 40% .

Top of page: winervana.com/blog/

HALL Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

HALL Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
HALL Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. Click here for tasting notes.

HALL Cabernet Sauvignon 

Kathryn Walt Hall has a most impressive resume. To touch on just a few of the high points, she is the proprietor of HALL Wines and WALT Wines [family businesses she has been involved with for over thirty years], was assistant city attorney in Berkeley, California, worked as an attorney and businesswoman in Dallas, Texas, and has served on numerous non-profit and institutional boards, with an emphasis on issues related to social care and mental health. From 1997 to July 2001, Ms. Hall served as the United States Ambassador to Austria. In the midst of this, together with her husband Craig she has raised four children.

HALL estate wines hail from five vineyards: Sacrashe (Rutherford), Bergfeld (St. Helena), Hardester (Napa Valley), Atlas Peak Estate, (Atlas Peak), and T Bar T Ranch (Alexander Valley). From these 500 acres come classic Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc. In each vineyard, small-vine farming is employed to produce low-yield, high-concentration fruit.

Continue reading “HALL Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021”

Cornerstone Cellars Oakville Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Cornerstone Cellars Oakville Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
Cornerstone Cellars Oakville Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2019. Click here for tasting notes.

Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon 

In Napa Valley, some of the most compelling wines come not from sprawling estates but from small, vineyard-focused producers who carefully source fruit from exceptional sites. One such winery is Cornerstone Cellars, a small Napa Valley label known for crafting limited-production wines from prestigious vineyard locations.

Continue reading “Cornerstone Cellars Oakville Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2019”

Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 7 2020

Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 7 2020
Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 7 2020. Click here for tasting notes.

Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon

As a reviewer and source of reliable information, I am supposed to be as objective and unbiased as possible. But not today.  Keenan wines have long been some of my favorites.

After serving in World War II, Robert Keenan worked as an insurance broker and also invested in commercial real estate.  He had been a wine enthusiast for years, including owning a significant collection of Bordeaux wines, and finally decided to have a go at winemaking.  Certain that mountain-side vineyards in Napa Valley could produce world class wines, in 1974 Keenan purchased 180 acres (of which 48 are under vine) in the Spring Mountain District at an elevation of 1700 feet. Located on the eastern slope of the Mayacamas mountain range, (Spring Mountain District was declared an American Vineyard Appellation (AVA) in 1993.) The low-vigor soils unique to the region were known to create a stressful environment for vine growth, setting up perfect conditions to encourage vineyards planted on the steep rocky mountainsides to produce wines of great concentration, structure, and pure varietal flavors.

Continue reading “Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 7 2020”

Berne Inspiration

Chateau de Berne Inspirations's unique square bottle.
Chateau de Berne Inspirations’s unique square bottle. Click here for tasting notes.

Berne Inspiration

Château de Berne, nestled in the heart of Provence near Flayosc, boasts a rich history that spans over two millennia, evolving from a Roman-era vineyard into a modern luxury estate renowned for its wines and hospitality.​

The estate’s viticultural roots trace back to Roman times. Situated along the Via Aurelia—a Roman road connecting Italy to Spain—Château de Berne was strategically positioned for wine trade. Archaeological discoveries, including an ancient oven used for crafting amphorae, tall earthenware jars with two handles and a narrow neck for storing wine, attest to the estate’s early involvement in winemaking and commerce. ​

Amphorae. Photo: Anthromedia.com

In the 12th century, Count Raymond V of Toulouse gave the estate to Bernard of Clairvaux, the founder of the Cistercian Order. The Cistercians, known for their agricultural prowess, managed the estate until 1307, when it was confiscated by King Philip IV of France. Subsequently, the property came under the ownership of the noble Marquis de Villeneuve family, who maintained it for nearly five centuries.

The 19th century marked a renaissance for Château de Berne under Marius Estellon, a former frigate captain in the imperial army. Estellon expanded the estate, introduced new vineyards, and modernized viticultural practices. A patron of the arts, he also hosted grand events and produced on-site earthenware enhancing the estate’s cultural prominence. ​ Continue reading “Berne Inspiration”

Charles Krug Generations 2019

Charles Krug Generations
Charles Krug Generations. Click here for tasting notes. 

Charles Krug Generations

Starting in 1861 in St. Helena, Prussian-born immigrant Charles Krug began transforming 540 acres of prime Napa Valley land that had come to him through his marriage to Carolina Balein. His efforts culminated in what is widely recognized as Napa Valley’s first commercial winery.  In 1882, he opened his tasting room, another Napa first.

Krug arrived in California during the Gold Rush era, and soon shifted his attention from prospecting to viticulture, building the stone winery that would become a cornerstone of Napa’s agricultural identity. From the beginning, Krug’s operation was notable for its ambition and for bringing structure and scale to what had been a largely experimental local industry.

The winery’s early success was influenced by both Krug’s business instincts and the valley’s growing reputation as a place where European grape varieties could thrive. But like many historic California wineries, Charles Krug faced major challenges in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including vineyard diseases (especially phylloxera) and shifting market conditions. The greatest blow to the American wine trade came with Prohibition (1920–1933), when most wineries were forced to shut down or survive by producing sacramental wine or grape products. Charles Krug endured through these years, but the broader Napa Valley wine economy stalled for decades. Continue reading “Charles Krug Generations 2019”

Heavy Wine Bottles

Heavy Wine Bottles

In my posts, I’ve been calling out bottles that weigh more than the wine they contain, which I’ve named Bloated Bottle Syndrome. The web site of nearly every winery will usually include a mention of the operation’s dedication to “sustainability” and “stewardship.”  Unfortunately, this often seems only to extend to the property itself.  Many “premium” wines come in heavier bottles to allegedly denote higher quality. 

Inexcusably,  a recent Beau Vigne I reviewed weighed in at 1194 grams!  The average of past BBS “winners” is 857 grams, excluding the previous record holder at 1007 grams.   (As an example of a more typical bottle, Estancia Cabernet’s comes in at 494 grams.) That’s a lot of extra weight to be shipping around the country (or the world.)  For that Beau Vigne, that’s an extra 12 lbs per case, even assuming a 750-gram bottle.  Even sparkling wine bottles are less than the weight of this one, and those are made to withstand high internal pressure.  Unfortunately, this sort of “bottle-weight marketing” is becoming more common, especially at higher price points. But there are other ways to denote quality without weight: unusual label designs, foils, wax dipping, etc.

Plastic bottles have a lower environmental impact than glass, 20% to 40% less, in fact. And, bag-in-box packages are even less than plastic bottles. (Unfortunately, current bag technology will only keep unopened wine fresh for about a year, so they are only suitable for wines to be consumed upon release from the winery; that’s about 90% of all wine sold though.)

The carbon footprint of global winemaking and global wine consumption is nothing to scoff at, amounting to hundreds of thousands of tons per year. The latter, which requires cases of wine be shipped around the world, imprints a deep carbon footprint. Because wine is so region-specific, and only so many regions can create drinkable bottles, ground and air transportation is responsible for nearly all of the wine industry’s greenhouse gas emissions. According to the Sustainable Wine Roundtable, a group of wineries, retailers, and other companies connected to the wine industry, one-third to one-half of that total is due to the glass bottles themselves. 

Salami Pizza

This pizza features three salamis, mushrooms, and olives.
This pizza features three salamis, mushrooms, and olives.

Salami Pizza

I had olives and  sliced meats left over from a charcuterie board, so I came up with a pizza recipe to use them.

THE DOUGH

This is a Neapolitan-style crust, which is relatively thin and crisp.

Start dough at 3:30p for dinner between 7p and 8p
1 -1/2 cups warm water (105 to 115 degrees F.) [330 grams]
1 tsp instant-rise yeast
1 cup 00 pizza flour or cake flour [145 grams]
2-1/2 cups all purpose flour [360 grams]
2 tsp salt

Combine ingredients and knead by hand for 10 minutes or machine
for five minutes. Coat dough ball in a thin film of olive oil or cooking spray, cover in plastic wrap, and let rise in warm place until doubled in size, about two hours. Continue reading “Salami Pizza”

Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec 2021

Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec 2021
Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec. Click here for tasting notes.

Catena Alta Malbec 

When collectors speak of Argentine Malbec at its most refined, and age-worthy, one name inevitably rises to the surface: Catena Alta. The brand represents a philosophy—one rooted in history, sharpened by science, and expressed through some of the highest and most carefully studied vineyard rows in Mendoza.

Catena Alta is not a separate winery, but rather the top-tier label within Bodega Catena Zapata, the estate that redefined Argentina’s place in the fine-wine world.

The Catena story began in 1902, when Italian immigrant Nicola Catena planted Malbec vines in Mendoza. At the time, Argentina’s wine culture was local and utilitarian—focused on volume rather than terroir or longevity. Malbec thrived in Mendoza’s sun-drenched climate, but its deeper potential remained unrealized.

For much of the 20th century, Catena vineyards followed the prevailing Argentine model: generous yields, warm low-altitude sites, and wines meant for immediate consumption. Quality was respectable, but ambition was limited.

Continue reading “Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec 2021”

John Duval Wines Entity Shiraz 2022

John Duval Entity Shiraz 2022.
John Duval Entity Shiraz 2022. Click here for tasting notes.

Duval Entity

John Duval Wines is a prestigious family-run winery based in the Barossa Valley, South Australia, founded by renowned winemaker John Duval in 2003.

Duval comes from a long lineage of grape growers. The Duval family supplied grapes to top South Australian producers for over 100 years.

After studying winemaking at the University of Adelaide’s Roseworthy College, Duval began his career at Penfolds in 1974, eventually serving as Chief Winemaker from 1986 to 2002.

Through the 1990s he played a leading role in experimenting with the maturation of old vine Barossa Shiraz in new French oak, contrary to the established winery convention of blending Shiraz from multiple regions and maturation in American oak.

At Penfolds he was instrumental in crafting the legendary Penfolds Grange and other major wines before leaving to create his own label rooted in the Barossa and Eden Valley’s old-vined vineyards.

The style tends toward elegance, structure, and layered complexity, showcasing varietal character rather than heavy oak or hyper-extraction.

Duval’s son, Tim Duval, joined the family business in 2016, ushering in a new generation focused on heritage and innovation. Continue reading “John Duval Wines Entity Shiraz 2022”

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2021

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2021. Click here for tasting notes.

Schramsberg Rosé

Jacob Schram
Jacob Schram

Jacob Schram, a German immigrant, bought 200 acres on Mt. Diamond in Napa valley in 1862 and planted 30,000 vines. He had Chinese laborers dig Napa’s first hillside caves for wine aging and storage.  His winery, Schramsberg, gained fame after the author Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about it in his 1883 book, The Silverado Squatters. The wine became so popular that the 23rd President of the United States, Benjamin Harrison,  served it in the White House at official functions.

After Schram died in 1905 the property languished until Jack and Jamie Davies purchased it in 1965. They decided to focus on making sparkling wine in the Champagne style using the traditional “méthode champenoise,” (aka “méthode traditionnelle”) to great success.

Their 1965 Blanc de Blancs would be the first commercial use of Chardonnay in American sparkling wine.

Reviving the Harrison tradition, every President since Richard Nixon has featured the company’s sparkling wine at the White House or some official celebration.

For example, in 1972 their sparkling “Blanc de Blancs” wine was served as part of the “Toast to Peace” during the visit by then-President Richard Nixon to China — a symbolic and historic diplomatic moment.

The winery preserves a large portion of forested land on the estate, and from the beginning of the Davies’ ownership they adopted sustainable and preservation-oriented practices — both for the land and the winemaking legacy. Continue reading “Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2021”

Prazo de Roriz Douro DOC 2008

Portugese Red Table Wine

Prazo de Roriz

In the 1970s, Portugese rosés such as Lancers and Mateus were the height of sophistication to many young wine drinkers: “It’s imported, and comes in a fun bottle!” With age comes wisdom, and these wines were eventually abandoned for the justifiably famous fortified wines of Portugal, Port and Madeira, produced by many ancient and famous houses.

Much less well-known is Portugal’s status as a producer of both red and white table wine, ranking in the world’s top ten in production.  With a population of just 10 million, but top five in per capita consumption, much of that wine is sipped by the thirsty Portuguese.

Continue reading “Prazo de Roriz Douro DOC 2008”

Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro DOC 2007

Portugese Red Table Wine

Post Scriptum

In the 1970s, Portugese rosés such as Lancers and Mateus were the height of sophistication to many young wine drinkers: “It’s imported, and comes in a fun bottle!” With age comes wisdom, and these wines were eventually abandoned for the justifiably famous fortified wines of Portugal, Port and Madeira, produced by many ancient and famous houses.

Much less well-known is Portugal’s status as a producer of both red and white table wine, ranking in the world’s top ten in production.  With a population of just 10 million, but top five in per capita consumption, much of that wine is sipped by the thirsty Portuguese.

Continue reading “Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro DOC 2007”

Chryseia Douro DOC 2007

Chryseia Douro DOC 2007
Chryseia Douro DOC 2007

Chryseia Douro

In the 1970s, Portugese rosés such as Lancers and Mateus were the height of sophistication to many young wine drinkers: “It’s imported, and comes in a fun bottle!” With age comes wisdom, and these wines were eventually abandoned for the justifiably famous fortified wines of Portugal, Port and Madeira, produced by many ancient and famous houses.

Much less well-known is Portugal’s status as a producer of both red and white table wine, ranking in the world’s top ten in production.  With a population of just 10 million, but top five in per capita consumption, much of that wine is sipped by the thirsty Portuguese.

Continue reading “Chryseia Douro DOC 2007”

Pizza Giambotta

This pizza features Italian sausage , sweet peppers, and onions.
This pizza features Italian sausage , sweet peppers, and onions.

Giambotta Pizza

THE DOUGH

Start dough at 4p for dinner between 7p and 8p
1 cup warm water (90 to 110 degrees F.)
2 tsp instant-rise yeast
3-1/4 cup bread flour
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup olive oil (extra virgin not necessary)
Combine ingredients and knead by hand for 10 minutes or machine
for two to five minutes. Coat dough ball in a thin film of olive oil or cooking spray, cover in plastic wrap, and let rise in warm place until doubled in size.

Continue reading “Pizza Giambotta”