Kirkland Champagne Brut is one of the more interesting private-label wines from Costco, particularly because it is genuine French Champagne produced by an established Champagne winemaker, rather than an inexpensive sparkling wine marketed as Champagne.
The bottle says in very tiny type that it was produced by Maison MJ, which is associated with Manuel Janisson, the Champagne producer based in Verzenay, one of Champagne’s prestigious Grand Cru villages.
Janisson was associated with Champagne Janisson & Fils, a house located in Verzenay, in the Montagne de Reims. Verzenay is particularly renowned for Pinot Noir, which often contributes structure, depth, and body to Champagne.
There is an interesting ownership connection: Janisson & Fils was acquired by Moët & Chandon in 2019, becoming part of the LVMH group. LVMH has subsequently chosen to discontinue the Janisson & Fils commercial label. The winery is officially closed, but the production facility is still in operation. The primary purpose of the acquisition was to secure the prime vineyards.
LVMH is transitioning the house’s valuable 10-hectare [25 acre] estate to supply premium grapes directly to its major powerhouse Champagne houses, including Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon, Ruinart, Krug, and Mercier. Despite this realignment, original winemaker Manuel Janisson was retained to run the daily house operations. Under his management, the facility has notably continued its high-profile contract manufacturing partnership to produce this popular Champagne for Costco. .
Kirkland Champagne Brut
This wine is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, but the percentages are unknown. It is a straightforward, enjoyable Champagne that delivers good mouthfeel, bright citrus flavors, and refreshing acidity, but little of the complexity that distinguishes more ambitious examples. The mousse lacks persistence, the lees-derived character is minimal, and the finish offers little beyond the initial citrus notes. Still, at Costco’s modest asking price, it represents good value for authentic French Champagne. Recommended, with those qualifications. ABV is 12%.
For serving, I would start at approximately 45°F (7°C), preferably in a tulip-shaped glass rather than a narrow flute. It should pair nicely with oysters, shrimp, smoked salmon, or even fried chicken.
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