Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal 40 Years Review
Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal is a fortified dessert wine from Portugal’s Setúbal Peninsula, just south of Lisbon. Produced by José Maria da Fonseca, one of Portugal’s oldest and most important wine houses, it offers an intriguing alternative to Port, Madeira, and sweet Sherry.
What distinguishes Alambre is its combination of pronounced Muscat aromatics, oxidative complexity, and rich sweetness, balanced by enough acidity to keep the wine from becoming cloying. It is particularly appealing to drinkers who enjoy the flavors of orange marmalade, dried apricots, honey, caramel, and toasted nuts.
The company was founded in 1834 by José Maria da Fonseca in Vila Nogueira de Azeitão, on the Setúbal Peninsula. It remains a family-controlled business, with a long history of producing both table wines and fortified Moscatel.
Among its most important contributions to Portuguese wine is the development and commercialization of Moscatel de Setúbal as an internationally recognized specialty. It is a protected Portuguese denomination with roots in centuries of winemaking. The region received formal recognition in 1907.
The primary grape is Moscatel de Setúbal, a local name for Muscat of Alexandria. This is a particularly aromatic grape, capable of producing wines with pronounced floral, citrus, and ripe-fruit characteristics.
The growing region benefits from a Mediterranean climate, moderated by the nearby Atlantic Ocean, the Tagus and Sado estuaries, and the Arrábida Mountains..
Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal 40 Years
The 40-year designation of this fortified wine refers to the age profile of the blend, rather than a single vintage. Like aged tawny Port, it’s blended to achieve a particular mature character.
The wine pours a rich mahogany in the glass. The nose offers aromas of dried figs, raisins, and spice. These carry through to the palate, where cinnamon and cloves become more distinct. Although decidedly sweet, the wine is not cloying, with just enough acidity to provide balance. Surprisingly medium-bodied for a mature fortified dessert wine, it concludes with a moderately persistent finish. The ABV is 18%.
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