Category: Review

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Sosie Syrah

Sosie Winery Syrah

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and it’s a maxim Sosie Wines lives by. “Sosie” [so-zee] is French for twin or doppelganger, and as it says right on the bottle, “We are inspired by the wines of France. So we employ an Old World approach to wine growing that favors restraint over ripeness, finesse over flamboyance. Our aim is to craft wines that show a kinship with France’s benchmark regions. Wines that are their sosie.”

Sosie Wines also pays homage to the French tradition of location, or terroir, believing that the vineyard site is perhaps the most important component of a bottle of wine.

Sosie Wines co-owner Regina (no last name, apparently) was introduced to wine at an early age, one of the first being Chateauneuf du Pape. “I remember the shape of those bottles and the crossed-keys of the papal crest. It was a symbol you could trust, my mom used to say. I never forgot that, and as a young adult one of the first places I had to visit in France was Chateauneuf. To this day I still love those wines.”

On a quest to cement that fascination, in 2006 she and partner Scott took a trip to the Loire in western France, and then in 2008 they spent 10 days traveling the Côte de Nuits, walking the vineyards and tasting the wines. In 2016 they visited both northern and southern Rhone, working their way down from Côte-Rôtie to St. Joseph

Following their travels, Regina and Scott founded their winery on the belief that their wines should stand for something. That they would not just have a style, but a purpose. They wanted their products to be food-friendly, with lower alcohol levels, higher acidity, and made in small batches with minimal intervention and just a bit of oak.

The couple are hands-on vintners. They prowl the vineyards throughout the growing season and are at the sorting table when the fruit comes in. They taste the berries, check the sugars and acids, and call the pick. They supervise every aspect of their barrels – the cooper, the forest, and the toast level. But they can’t do it all, of course. They get plenty of help from winemaker Kieran Robinson. Kieran had worked previously at Domaine Pierre Gaillard in France (of course), and had the deep appreciation for French viticulture and winemaking they were looking for.

VIVIO VINEYARD

At just above 800 ft, this is one of the highest vineyards in Sonoma’s Bennett Valley. Sosie grows Syrah as well as Roussanne on the mineral-rich, volcanic soil here.  The area, near Petaluma Gap, has a strong marine influence, as cool air pours in from three separate directions and settles into the valley’s bowl, which in the summer months turns to heavy fog. Even so, the days can get quite hot, with temperature swings of 40° to 50° F from daytime highs to nighttime lows. This can mean the fruit is very late ripening due to the extended “hang time” on the vines..  The property is sustainably farmed.

Sosie Wines Syrah 2016

In addition to the Syrah, there is 7% Rousanne in the bottle. It was aged for 20 months in 50% new oak. The nose features aromas of berries, tart cherries, with a hint of plum and menthol. The restrained plum continues on the palate, with some cocoa and, frankly, booming tannins. No worries, though. Decant Sosie Wines Syrah for an hour or two before drinking, and those tannins settle down nicely.

Give this Syrah a try with roast duck with cherries, beef braised in red wine, or pork chops with mustard, cream, and tomato sauce.

Only five barrels (that’s 1500 bottles) of this wine were produced, so get a bottle while you can.

sosiewines.com

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Carmel Winery

Carmel Winery Private Collection
Carmel Winery Private Collection. Click here for tasting notes.

Carmel Winery Private Collection

The first mention of wine in the Bible appears in Genesis, chapter 9, verse 20, “And Noah began to be an husbandman, and he planted a vineyard.” The story goes on to recount some unpleasantness after Noah over imbibes, but there is no reason to go into that here. The point is, wine is as old as history itself, with some of its earliest beginnings in the Middle East. Indeed, references to wine appear hundreds of times in Scripture, through both the Old and New Testaments.
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Linchpin McLaren Vale Shiraz and Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc

Linchpin McLaren Vale ShirazLinchpin McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004

This award-winning Shiraz hails from McLaren Vale on Australia’s southern coast. The complex soil types here combine with the St. Vincent’s Gulf breezes to make for ideal vineyard conditions.

Winemaker Matt Rechner believes the best way to make excellent wine is through simple processes and minimal handling for maximum flavor extraction. Here the grapes were harvested from low-yield vineyards, then spent 20 months in French and American oak. The concentrated fruit, supported by notes of chocolate and blackberry, certainly comes through in this relatively high-alcohol (15.2%) Shiraz. It has a lush, velvet-like mouth feel and well-balanced oak tannins.

Serve with lamb stew accented by eggplant, saffron, and raisins, or shepherd’s pie.

ekhidnawines.com.au/product/linchpin-shiraz-2016/

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Kim Crawford is perhaps New Zealand’s most famous wine maker. After 20 years as an independent, three years ago he sold out to an American holding company. However, he was allowed to pursue boutique bottlings, and we have one of those here.

This Sauvignon Blanc dodges the grassiness which so often mars this varietal when it originates in New Zealand. Instead there is a tart, refreshing, distinct grapefruit nose and taste. Completely dry, with a bit of flint on the finish. Delicious.

Pair this wine with lobster tacos, seafood paella, or parmesan-dijon chicken drumsticks.

kimcrawfordwines.com/us/products/sauvignon-blanc/

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Hook and Ladder Winery

Hook & Ladder The Tillerman 2005 and Hook & Ladder Chardonnay 2006
Hook & Ladder The Tillerman 2005 and Hook & Ladder Chardonnay 2006

Hook and Ladder Winery

Looking toward his eventual retirement, in 1970 San Francisco firefighter Cecil De Loach bought 24 acres of old-vine Zinfandel in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County. For six years De Loach worked the acreage part time, selling grapes to other producers, as neophyte winemakers often do. In 1976 De Loach released his first wine, 1,000 cases of a vintage 1975 Zinfandel, and in so doing became one of the first Russian River wineries.

After a 16-year career, De Loach retired from the San Francisco Fire Department in 1982. But this allowed him to work the winery full time, and over the next two decades he grew production to 250,000 cases annually. Not only was he one of Sonoma county’s wine pioneers, during this time he was also extremely active as a promoter and advocate of Sonoma wines.

Unhappily, De Loach ran into financial difficulties in the late 1990s, and filed for bankruptcy in 2003. (The De Loach label continues, however, having been purchased by the Boisset family of Burgundy, France.)

Hook and Ladder winery

He could have called it quits at that point, but De Loach postponed his retirement yet again. In 2004 he founded Hook & Ladder Winery, the name an obvious nod to his first career as a firefighter, having been a tillerman steering the rear wheels of a hook and ladder fire truck. (He was forced to leave his eponymous label behind because a non-compete agreement prevents his own name from ever again appearing on a wine bottle, a testament to his stature in the Sonoma wine industry.)

Still in the Russian River Valley today, De Loach now works 375 acres in the cool climate there, with his wife, son, grandson, and granddaughter all employed at Hook & Ladder.

Hook & Ladder The Tillerman 2005

A single-vineyard blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, and 17% Sangiovese. Plenty of ripe fruits, with a supporting cast of cassis, spice, cedar, and leather. A somewhat short finish. After decanting for an hour, serve with pork satay and peanut dipping sauce, or prime rib paired with madeira sauce.

Hook & Ladder Chardonnay 2006

This wine is a very light yellow-green, pale almost to the point of being colorless. Fermented in a combination of stainless steel and seasoned French oak barrels to retain its crisp acidity. The tart citrus flavors are balanced with just a hint of oak from the not-new barrels. (Oaky, buttery chardonnays are on the wane, I for one am sorry to report.) This chard features bright but delicate aromas of just-ripe apple, pear, and mango. Good now, but should be more appealing in warmer weather. Would contrast nicely with richer seafood such as truffled lobster risotto or rosemary-roasted salmon.

hookandladderwinery.com/

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Shackleton Whisky

MacKinlay’s Shackleton Whisky

Looking for a good story to tell your house guests over an after-dinner drink? MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malts are re-creations of the original malt whisky shipped to Antarctica in 1907 by explorer Ernest Shackleton on his “Nimrod” expedition.

In 2007, a century after the expedition, three cases of the perfectly preserved whisky were discovered, frozen into the ice beneath Shackleton’s base camp at Cape Royds.

In 2011, three of the discovered bottles were excavated and flown to New Zealand where they were carefully thawed by the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust in a purpose-built environment and public gallery at Canterbury Museum.  Following scientific analysis and replication, malts from Glen Mhor and Dalmore distilleries were selected and combined with others to create a blend that is, according to the MacKinlay website “light honey in colour with an aroma that is soft, elegant and refined, and a taste that is both harmonious and exhilarating.”

My personal view is that the whisky is as fabulous as the tale behind its presentation. The bottle is raffia-encased, reminiscent of the straw-bound bottles found in the Antarctic. The label graphics are meticulously hand drawn to ensure a perfect match to the original.

By Spirits Contributor Neal Kotlarek

www.theshackletonwhisky.com/

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Lasseter Family Winery

Lasseter Family WineryUn Travail d’Amour

John and Nancy Lasseter are long-time francophiles, and over the years have traveled extensively in France. It was there that they developed their appreciation of and fondness for Old-World style wines.

It was with some irony then that in 1993 they moved to Sonoma (with Napa, the very heart of “New World” style wines) and began dabbling in amateur winemaking. In 2002, they went all-in when they purchased a badly neglected local winery and 27-acre vineyard property.

This sad state of affairs allowed them to start from scratch, however. The land was restored to natural habitat and good health. The vineyards were converted to 100% organic farming practices, supported by a natural eco-system that includes beehives, owl boxes, and insectaires. A new eco-friendly winery building was completed in 2011.

In addition to wine, the Lasseters have a passion for the arts, and they try to bring an artistic sensibility to the winemaking. They commissioned local painter Dennis Ziemienski to create the label art. They consider their winemaker, Julia Iantosca (one of only a handful of female winemakers), to also be an artist in the way she uses her skills to handcraft the signature blends favored by the Lasseters.

Lasseter Family Winery is a genuine boutique operation. The total production of the four wines currently available is just 1445 cases. It is truly a labor of love.

Lasseter Enjoué 2011

None of my friends like rosés, but I’ve never understood why. What’s not to like? They routinely offer delightful color, plenty of flavor, and great versatility. And so it is with this Lasseter Enjoué (meaning joyful, playful, etc.)

The pale salmon-pink color comes from using red grapes (in this case, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre, the classic Rhone GSM trio, sourced from the seven-acre Justi Creek Block) in a white-wine style. Both the nose and the taste suggest strawberry, ruby grapefruit, and lime. There is plenty of acidity, so it will work with a wide variety of foods.

Dine al fresco and enjoy a bottle of Enjoué with Coquilles St. Jacques, Tuna with Wine, Tomatoes, and Herbs, or Pork and Veal Pâté.

 Lasseter Chemin de Fer 2010

All aboard! ‘Chemin de Fer’ is French for railroad, and the name recalls a memorable train trip the Lasseters took through southern France many years ago. Although in different proportions, this wine is made with the same Justi Creek Block GSM as is the Enjoué, showing just how varied winemaking can be.

In the glass, Chemin de Fer is transparent ruby in color. The nose features aromas of dark cherry and spice. True to the Lasseters’ preference for an Old-World style, on the palate the wine is dry and lean, with flavors of dark fruit. Structure is provided by plenty of acid and tannins, and the wine has a long smooth finish. Be sure to decant this wine and give it up to two hours to breathe.

Couple Chemin de Fer with Chicken Sautéed with Herbs and Garlic, Coq au Vin, or Pan-broiled Steak.

www.lasseterfamilywinery.com/

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Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range Winery

Although wine production started in New Zealand as early as 1819, that nation of beer drinkers didn’t really start to get serious about it until the mid 1960s, time-wise much like California. Real success didn’t come until the early ‘80s, however, with the varietal New Zealand has become famous for, sauvignon blanc. The first release to get wide attention was the 1979 from Montana Wines (New Zealand’s biggest wine maker) and an even more compelling product followed from Cloudy Bay Vineyards in 1985, finally putting “the land of the long white cloud” on the world’s wine-making map.

In 1876 the Ngaruroro River in the Hawkes Bay region severely flooded and changed course, leaving behind a large new tract of gravelly soil. At first, the plan was to turn this infertile ‘wasteland’ into a quarry. Before that project got underway, however, local winemakers claimed the land as their own and began planting vines.

Terry Peabody and Steve Smith established Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay in 1997, recognizing the area’s potential to deliver first-rate wines. Their goal was to make single-vineyard wines – wines that are true expressions of the vineyard’s terroir.

Peabody handles the ‘front office’ at Craggy Range, while Smith is the senior winemaker and certified Master of Wine. Decanter magazine and Wine and Spirits magazine have named him as one of the fifty most influential people in the world of wine.

Craggy Range Winery Chardonnay 2008

Kidnappers Vineyard is located on the Hawkes Bay coastline at Te Awanga where the climate is warm and sunny and the soil is predominantly clay loam.
This wine introduces itself with a very pale straw color and lemony nose. The citrus notes continue on the palate, abetted by tastes of mineral and oyster shell. The finish suggests clove and grapefruit.

This wine would pair well with Grilled Scallops with Raspberry-Thyme Beurre Blanc, Lemon-Basil Basated Shrimp, and Mixed Grill of Summer Vegetables.

Craggy Range Winery Te Kahu Proprietary Red 2006

Te Kahu means The Cloak in the native Maori language. Legend has it that the mists rolling down the valley are the cloak of a beautiful maiden laying at the feet of her lover, the fallen giant Te Mafa.

This lean, restrained wine is a classic Bordeaux blend of 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec, and is very much in the European style. The bouquet offers notes of dark plum, blueberry, cedar, and a hint of oak. The palate adds elements of earth and dusty cocoa powder supported by moderate tannins. The finish is relatively short.

Let this wine breathe for at least two hours, then serve with Paprika Chicken or Braised Lamb Shanks with White Beans.

www.craggyrange.com/

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Pedroncelli Winery

Pedroncelli WineryPedroncelli Winery

Pedroncelli was founded in 1927 in Geyerserville, California, during the middle of Prohibition, and began by selling grapes to local home winemakers. After Repeal in 1933, Pedroncelli began to make their own wines in a winery that had been sidelined as a barn.

In 1949, John Pedroncelli Jr., son of the founder, made and released the label’s first Zinfandel, using fruit from vines still being harvested today, the so-called Mother Clone. The first Cabernet Sauvignon appeared in 1966.

In the late ‘70s, Pedroncelli transitioned out of the jug wines they had been making and began to focus on mainstream varietals, and the ‘80s saw the beginning of an extensive vineyard replanting effort.

Nearly 100 years later, Pedroncelli continues to be owned and operated by the founding family.

Pedroncelli Winery Mother Clone Zinfandel 2006

This straightforward Zinfandel is a clear ruby red in the glass. The taste is quite dry, even astringent, with a hint of dust. The pepper note often characteristic of Zin is present but not dominant, and is balanced by aromas of boysenberry and blackberry. The finish is moderately short. After decanting for at least an hour, pair this with just about anything from the grill.

Pedroncelli Winery Chardonnay 2007

Made from 100% Chardonnay, this wine much more resembles a Sauvignon Blanc. It has plenty of citrus tartness, balanced by undertones of melon and pear. If you’re not a fan of wood, although 30% of the wine was aged in oak it’s almost not detectable.

www.pedroncelli.com/

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Sonoma Vineyards

Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot
Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot

Sonoma Vineyards

Tom Klein graduated from Stanford Graduate School of Business in 1979, and established a career as a management consultant. In 1985, Klein received an assignment to evaluate the business of Rodney Strong Vineyards. He liked what he saw, and in 1989 he and his family purchased the winery.

Under the guidance of the Klein family, the winery has prospered and grown to become one of the more respected operations in Sonoma County. Rodney Strong remains the flagship brand of the business, and Sonoma Vineyards is the more casual, relaxed, and affordable “little brother.”

Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2007

The winemaker at Sonoma Vineyards decided to dabble in sauvignon blanc for the 2007 harvest. The result? A quite tart style of sauvignon blanc, full of really ripe grapefruit flavors (grapefruit being very often characteristic of this grape), along with some tropical fruit that hints of of guava and passionfruit, but with none of the grassy or herbaceous flavors that I think sometimes mar the similar wines from New Zealand. No oak whatsoever was used.

Match this up with spring green salad with chèvre; fresh snapper ceviche (only for the adventurous) with tequila, lime, and roasted sweet peppers; grilled marinated prawns with fresh melon salsa; risotto of lobster and sea vegetables with peas and asparagus; or spicy shrimp ravioli in a citrus achiote vinaigrette.

Sonoma Vineyards Merlot 2003

The label on the back of this bottle states, “…loaded with in-your-face fruit that will have you dreaming of wild berries staining your fingers and juicy plums dribbling down your chin.” Well, not for me. I found this wine to be very much in the European style (not that there’s anything wrong with that.) There is some fruit, but this is counterbalanced by a slightly bitter, slightly smoky finish. The tannins are moderate and unassuming.

Pair this merlot with rosemary portobello burgers, pot roast, or porterhouse steaks with arugula and Parmesan cheese.

www.rodneystrong.com/

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Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon

Rietvallei Wine Estate

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon

These two cabs come from the Rietvallei Wine Estate, located in the Robertson region of South Africa, outside of Johannesburg. This warm, low-rainfall area has excellent lime-rich soils, and is usually known for white wine, sherry, and brandy.

The Rietvallei Estate was founded in 1864 by the Burger family, and for many decades only produced red muscadel (also known as muscat), a sweet dessert wine. The estate’s house style was based on a recipe still to be found nailed behind the cellar door.

Today overseen by sixth generation winemaker Kobus Burger, Rietvallei began to expand its offerings a few years ago. A Chardonnay was first released in 1987, followed by a Sauvignon Blanc in 2001. The selections now include a number of other whites and reds as well.

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This easy-drinking cabernet will appeal most to those who like a lighter style of wine. Although the wine is very dark, the flavor is soft, more like a merlot than a cab. There is also a hint of sweetness as well as tartness. The aroma in the glass, or “nose,” is quite delicate. The finish is short, reflecting the low level of tannins. Enjoy this with a wide range of not too assertive foods, including fish and ‘burgers.

www.rietvallei.co.za/

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Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Welcome to another installment in my series on golfers’ wine projects.  This time the focus is on Theodore Ernest “Ernie” Els, known as “The Big Easy” due to his imposing physical stature along with his fluid, seemingly effortless golf swing.

Els launched his winery in 1999 in Stellenbosch, South Africa [predictably, since he’s a native]. With award-winning winemaker Louis Strydom at the helm, they produced the maiden 2000 vintage of Ernie Els, a ‘classic’ Bordeaux blend. This impressive facility is now home to eight different Els selections.

Wines of varying quality have been made in South Africa for over 350 years. Stellenbosch, in the country’s southwestern Coastal Region, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded growing districts. It is similar to a Mediterranean climate, with an average rainfall of around 25 inches per year. The soils largely consist of clay, with the deeper soils having a considerable amount of granite, just the sort of difficult land that quality grape vines prefer. The majority of the vineyards at Ernie Els Wines are north-facing, with the rows running in an east-west direction, resulting in the optimal utilization of sunlight. In summer, the vineyards’ close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides cool sea breezes that moderate temperatures, extending the ripening period.

Ernie Els Big Easy White 2011

Yes, Els rather cheekily labeled these wines after his nickname. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc, with no oak aging whatsoever. The wine is pale gold, and the nose is delicately perfumed. The prominent flavor is grapefruit, with a hint of almond and spice. There is plenty of acid, complementing the grapefruit flavor profile, with the finish featuring some of grapefruit’s bitterness, as well.

Match this wine with New Orleans-style Barbecued Shrimp, Chicken Clemençeau, or Cheese Soufflé.

ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-chenin-blanc/

Ernie Els Big Easy Red 2010

This red blend is 60% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Mouvedre, Grenache, Cinsaut, and Viognier (with the exception of the Cab, this is a typical Bordeaux blend). It is dark purple in the glass, with a rather boozy nose. It was barrel aged for 12 months in 80% French and 20% American oak.
The palate is dense and full bodied, with plenty of tannins. Earthy flavors of black cherries, coffee, and chocolate predominate, and are smoothly integrated. A hint of cocoa on the finish delivers a slight bitterness that is less welcome than it is in the Big Easy White.

Serve this red with Steak and Truffled Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Chicken wth Watermelon Relish, or Garlic Pork Roast.

ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-red-blend/

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Deerfield Ranch Winery

deerfield ranch wineryDeerfield Ranch Winery

Sonoma County is situated between Napa County to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Sonoma has over 175 wineries, second only to the somewhat more famous Napa in number of U. S. wineries.

The Sonoma Valley AVA [American Viticultural Area] is in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, and is home to Deerfield Ranch Winery. This boutique winery is owned and operated by the affable and effusive Robert Rex. He makes the wine, and his wife PJ manages the business side. Many wineries today tout themselves as “small, family-run,” but this one truly is.

Deerfield Ranch is a certified organic producer, even now still one of the few in Sonoma County, with an annual output of about 15,000 cases.

Trained as a chemist, in 1972 Robert was given a winemaking kit by then-girlfriend PJ in appreciation for keeping her finicky Alfa Romeo running. That first Zinfandel won Best of Show at the California State Fair, and Robert soon left the chemistry lab in favor of the wine cave.

Robert is an enthusiastic proponent of the art of blending wines, and says, “Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients. By drawing from 26 vineyards we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, and use the most gentle production techniques. We make wine by hand in small lots; the wines are clean, have very low histamine and sulfite levels, so that they produce no headaches or allergic reactions.”

Deerfield Ranch Winery Los Chamizal Chardonnay 2009

This pale-gold elixer opens with delicate aromas of honey and apricot. The French white oak in which it was barreled for 10 months is present in the taste, but plays a subtle supporting role to the balanced acidity and flavors of green apple, fresh mint, and grapefruit.

Try this wine with Sauteed Black Sea Bass with Red Peppers, Grilled Herbed Salmon with Shrimp, or Chicken Burgers with Chive Sauce.

Deerfield Ranch Winery Red Rex 2006

Showcasing Robert Rex’s ideas about blending, Red Rex is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The ratio is on the bottle, but you’re unlikely to get the same results if you try the recipe at home!

After harvest, the wine was barrel aged for 36 months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Red Rex is nearly opaque without being cloudy, with a nose of dark cherries, berries, and spice box. On the palate, the wine tends toward a leaner French style; there is a medium-weight feel, with flavors of the same cherries and berries, complemented by black pepper and minerals, then ending in a medium finish.

This is Deerfield’s most popular wine; enjoy it with Boeuf Bourguignon, Hamburger au Poivre with Red-Wine Sauce, or Pork Chops Milanese.

www.deerfieldranch.com/home.html

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