Simon Creek American Tempranillo
Wisconsin native Thomas J. (Tim) Lawrie had a 26-year career in the U.S. Army, including two tours in Vietnam as a combat officer, and was awarded the Purple Heart. He served as an Army Infantry Airborne soldier before finally retiring with the rank of Colonel. After which, he was almost universally referred to as, “The Colonel,” a somewhat surprising affectation for a Northerner, I think. As with most military personnel, he had assignments throughout the country, including California, where he acquired an interest in wine and wine production.
After a second vocation in the Texas energy business, in 2002 he was presented with the opportunity to buy 120 acres in central Door County, 20 miles northeast of Sturgeon Bay where he had grown up as a boy. He decided this would be the perfect place for a winery, and bought it sight unseen.
Simon Creek Vineyards opened in May of 2003, and The Colonel operated it until his unexpected death at the age of 73 in August, 2017. The winery manager now and winemaker is the late Colonel’s son-in-law, Lance Nelson, a veteran of the packaged foods industry. He gets encouragement and support from consulting winemaker Tom Payette. With over 30 years of experience, Virginia-based Payette set the stage for the winery’s startup, and continues to work as Nelson’s teacher and mentor.
Early on, there were ambitions to grow grapes on the estate, but northern Wisconsin’s harsh winters soon put a stop to that, particularly for the varietals Nelson was interested in working with. Consequently, the winery imports juice for all of their production from California, particularly growers in Monterey county. With over 40,000 acres under vine in Salinas Valley, there is plenty to choose from.
The back labels of the wine bottles do rather disingenuously state, “Simon Creek Vineyard lies directly astride the 45° North Parallel; you couldn’t ask for a better winery site. Simon Creek’s location places it exactly midway between the equator and the North Pole.” Well, yes, but it is truer for places with a more temperate climate. Indeed, Simon Creek tried to grow an estate vineyard for over 20 years, without ever harvesting a single usable grape. In 2026 they gave up, replanting to corn. So, to make wine they truck in juice from their suppliers.
There is an interesting legend associated with the winery’s site. The land was homesteaded by Chris and Martha Simon in the early 20th century. During Prohibition, Al Capone was scouting around for a remote location suitable as a hideout. His attorney, Herbert Humpkie, had a brother in Sturgeon Bay who was working as a veterinarian there. He told Humpkie about the Simon place, who passed the information along to Capone. Thinking their farm would be ideal for his needs, Capone paid the Simons a little friendly visit to make them an offer they couldn’t refuse. But refuse they did. To honor their courage and integrity, the winery produces an Untouchable Red and an Untouchable White, but those are reviews for another day.
Simon Creek American Tempranillo NV
Tempranillo is Spain’s great red grape, particularly associated with Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Classic Tempranillo usually derives much of its character from the interplay of cherry/plum fruit, acidity, tannin, and oak; Simon Creek appears to be deliberately making a softer, fruitier, more approachable version.
The wine pours transparent ruby in the glass. The nose offers cherry and blueberry. These continue on the palate, with the addition of strawberry and vanilla. It is full-bodied, but medium sweet, perhaps in a nod to what most tourists in Door County expect in a wine. The medium finish shows some cocoa. There is enough acid and tannin to make the wine interesting. ABV is 13.1%.
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