The 2025 Substance ‘Ri’ Riesling is a new, single-vineyard Washington State wine. Introduced in April 2026, it comes from the Substance brand originally associated with the flamboyant Washington winemaker Charles Smith.
There are several things that distinguish this Riesling from the inexpensive, often slightly sweet examples that have traditionally dominated the American market. Most importantly, it is made from fruit grown at the well-regarded Evergreen vineyard, by a winemaker with considerable Riesling experience.
Substance was developed under the House of Smith umbrella, established by Charles Smith, one of Washington’s most recognizable wine personalities. Smith’s philosophy is straightforward: make serious wines at prices ordinary consumers could afford. Substance became particularly successful with its Cabernet Sauvignon, identified by the chemical-symbol-style abbreviation Cs.
The labels deliberately resemble squares from the periodic table. The Riesling carries the designation Ri, even though Ri is not an actual chemical element symbol.
Substance is now part of O’Neill Vintners & Distillers. Although Smith’s influence remains part of the brand’s history, the winemaker of this new release is Brennon Leighton.
The vineyard: Evergreen vineyard
Evergreen Vineyard lies within the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA, an area particularly suited to aromatic white grapes. The region’s distinguishing characteristics include its relatively cool growing conditions, dramatic geological formations, and soils influenced by ancient volcanic activity and glacial flooding.
Rather than relying on fruit purchased indiscriminately across the enormous Columbia Valley AVA, Substance sources the 2025 Ri exclusively from Evergreen Vineyard. That makes it a genuine single-vineyard wine, an unusual proposition at approximately $14 per bottle.
Winemaking
Brennon Leighton has more than two decades of experience working with Washington State wines. For the 2025 Ri, he used three particularly interesting techniques:
Native yeast fermentation relies on naturally-occurring yeasts rather than exclusively on commercially selected strains.
Lees aging, where the wine spends time in contact with spent yeast cells, potentially contributing texture and complexity.
Minimal sulfur dioxide additions with a relatively low-intervention approach.
Substance Ri Riesling 2025
This 100% Riesling pours a pale lemon yellow in the glass. Tiny bubbles congregate on the sides of the bowl, but there is no perceptible fizz in the wine itself. The subtle nose offers aromas of lime and grapefruit. These continue on the palate, especially the grapefruit, with a hint of apricot emerging on the finish. There is nicely balanced acidity. The wine tastes dry, but is justthisclose to sweet. The finish is short, crisp, and refreshing. With a modest ABV of 11.5%, this is an easy-drinking quaff.
Pair with pan-seared scallops with lemon beurre blanc; sautéed shrimp with garlic and ginger; roast pork tenderloin with apples; chicken with a tarragon cream sauce; lightly spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes; or freshwater fish, especially trout.
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