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Lasseter Family Winery

Lasseter Family WineryUn Travail d’Amour

John and Nancy Lasseter are long-time francophiles, and over the years have traveled extensively in France. It was there that they developed their appreciation of and fondness for Old-World style wines.

It was with some irony then that in 1993 they moved to Sonoma (with Napa, the very heart of “New World” style wines) and began dabbling in amateur winemaking. In 2002, they went all-in when they purchased a badly neglected local winery and 27-acre vineyard property.

This sad state of affairs allowed them to start from scratch, however. The land was restored to natural habitat and good health. The vineyards were converted to 100% organic farming practices, supported by a natural eco-system that includes beehives, owl boxes, and insectaires. A new eco-friendly winery building was completed in 2011.

In addition to wine, the Lasseters have a passion for the arts, and they try to bring an artistic sensibility to the winemaking. They commissioned local painter Dennis Ziemienski to create the label art. They consider their winemaker, Julia Iantosca (one of only a handful of female winemakers), to also be an artist in the way she uses her skills to handcraft the signature blends favored by the Lasseters.

Lasseter Family Winery is a genuine boutique operation. The total production of the four wines currently available is just 1445 cases. It is truly a labor of love.

Lasseter Enjoué 2011

None of my friends like rosés, but I’ve never understood why. What’s not to like? They routinely offer delightful color, plenty of flavor, and great versatility. And so it is with this Lasseter Enjoué (meaning joyful, playful, etc.)

The pale salmon-pink color comes from using red grapes (in this case, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre, the classic Rhone GSM trio, sourced from the seven-acre Justi Creek Block) in a white-wine style. Both the nose and the taste suggest strawberry, ruby grapefruit, and lime. There is plenty of acidity, so it will work with a wide variety of foods.

Dine al fresco and enjoy a bottle of Enjoué with Coquilles St. Jacques, Tuna with Wine, Tomatoes, and Herbs, or Pork and Veal Pâté.

 Lasseter Chemin de Fer 2010

All aboard! ‘Chemin de Fer’ is French for railroad, and the name recalls a memorable train trip the Lasseters took through southern France many years ago. Although in different proportions, this wine is made with the same Justi Creek Block GSM as is the Enjoué, showing just how varied winemaking can be.

In the glass, Chemin de Fer is transparent ruby in color. The nose features aromas of dark cherry and spice. True to the Lasseters’ preference for an Old-World style, on the palate the wine is dry and lean, with flavors of dark fruit. Structure is provided by plenty of acid and tannins, and the wine has a long smooth finish. Be sure to decant this wine and give it up to two hours to breathe.

Couple Chemin de Fer with Chicken Sautéed with Herbs and Garlic, Coq au Vin, or Pan-broiled Steak.

www.lasseterfamilywinery.com/

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Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range Winery

Although wine production started in New Zealand as early as 1819, that nation of beer drinkers didn’t really start to get serious about it until the mid 1960s, time-wise much like California. Real success didn’t come until the early ‘80s, however, with the varietal New Zealand has become famous for, sauvignon blanc. The first release to get wide attention was the 1979 from Montana Wines (New Zealand’s biggest wine maker) and an even more compelling product followed from Cloudy Bay Vineyards in 1985, finally putting “the land of the long white cloud” on the world’s wine-making map.

In 1876 the Ngaruroro River in the Hawkes Bay region severely flooded and changed course, leaving behind a large new tract of gravelly soil. At first, the plan was to turn this infertile ‘wasteland’ into a quarry. Before that project got underway, however, local winemakers claimed the land as their own and began planting vines.

Terry Peabody and Steve Smith established Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay in 1997, recognizing the area’s potential to deliver first-rate wines. Their goal was to make single-vineyard wines – wines that are true expressions of the vineyard’s terroir.

Peabody handles the ‘front office’ at Craggy Range, while Smith is the senior winemaker and certified Master of Wine. Decanter magazine and Wine and Spirits magazine have named him as one of the fifty most influential people in the world of wine.

Craggy Range Winery Chardonnay 2008

Kidnappers Vineyard is located on the Hawkes Bay coastline at Te Awanga where the climate is warm and sunny and the soil is predominantly clay loam.
This wine introduces itself with a very pale straw color and lemony nose. The citrus notes continue on the palate, abetted by tastes of mineral and oyster shell. The finish suggests clove and grapefruit.

This wine would pair well with Grilled Scallops with Raspberry-Thyme Beurre Blanc, Lemon-Basil Basated Shrimp, and Mixed Grill of Summer Vegetables.

Craggy Range Winery Te Kahu Proprietary Red 2006

Te Kahu means The Cloak in the native Maori language. Legend has it that the mists rolling down the valley are the cloak of a beautiful maiden laying at the feet of her lover, the fallen giant Te Mafa.

This lean, restrained wine is a classic Bordeaux blend of 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec, and is very much in the European style. The bouquet offers notes of dark plum, blueberry, cedar, and a hint of oak. The palate adds elements of earth and dusty cocoa powder supported by moderate tannins. The finish is relatively short.

Let this wine breathe for at least two hours, then serve with Paprika Chicken or Braised Lamb Shanks with White Beans.

www.craggyrange.com/

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Pedroncelli Winery

Pedroncelli WineryPedroncelli Winery

Pedroncelli was founded in 1927 in Geyerserville, California, during the middle of Prohibition, and began by selling grapes to local home winemakers. After Repeal in 1933, Pedroncelli began to make their own wines in a winery that had been sidelined as a barn.

In 1949, John Pedroncelli Jr., son of the founder, made and released the label’s first Zinfandel, using fruit from vines still being harvested today, the so-called Mother Clone. The first Cabernet Sauvignon appeared in 1966.

In the late ‘70s, Pedroncelli transitioned out of the jug wines they had been making and began to focus on mainstream varietals, and the ‘80s saw the beginning of an extensive vineyard replanting effort.

Nearly 100 years later, Pedroncelli continues to be owned and operated by the founding family.

Pedroncelli Winery Mother Clone Zinfandel 2006

This straightforward Zinfandel is a clear ruby red in the glass. The taste is quite dry, even astringent, with a hint of dust. The pepper note often characteristic of Zin is present but not dominant, and is balanced by aromas of boysenberry and blackberry. The finish is moderately short. After decanting for at least an hour, pair this with just about anything from the grill.

Pedroncelli Winery Chardonnay 2007

Made from 100% Chardonnay, this wine much more resembles a Sauvignon Blanc. It has plenty of citrus tartness, balanced by undertones of melon and pear. If you’re not a fan of wood, although 30% of the wine was aged in oak it’s almost not detectable.

www.pedroncelli.com/

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Sonoma Vineyards

Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot
Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot

Sonoma Vineyards

Tom Klein graduated from Stanford Graduate School of Business in 1979, and established a career as a management consultant. In 1985, Klein received an assignment to evaluate the business of Rodney Strong Vineyards. He liked what he saw, and in 1989 he and his family purchased the winery.

Under the guidance of the Klein family, the winery has prospered and grown to become one of the more respected operations in Sonoma County. Rodney Strong remains the flagship brand of the business, and Sonoma Vineyards is the more casual, relaxed, and affordable “little brother.”

Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2007

The winemaker at Sonoma Vineyards decided to dabble in sauvignon blanc for the 2007 harvest. The result? A quite tart style of sauvignon blanc, full of really ripe grapefruit flavors (grapefruit being very often characteristic of this grape), along with some tropical fruit that hints of of guava and passionfruit, but with none of the grassy or herbaceous flavors that I think sometimes mar the similar wines from New Zealand. No oak whatsoever was used.

Match this up with spring green salad with chèvre; fresh snapper ceviche (only for the adventurous) with tequila, lime, and roasted sweet peppers; grilled marinated prawns with fresh melon salsa; risotto of lobster and sea vegetables with peas and asparagus; or spicy shrimp ravioli in a citrus achiote vinaigrette.

Sonoma Vineyards Merlot 2003

The label on the back of this bottle states, “…loaded with in-your-face fruit that will have you dreaming of wild berries staining your fingers and juicy plums dribbling down your chin.” Well, not for me. I found this wine to be very much in the European style (not that there’s anything wrong with that.) There is some fruit, but this is counterbalanced by a slightly bitter, slightly smoky finish. The tannins are moderate and unassuming.

Pair this merlot with rosemary portobello burgers, pot roast, or porterhouse steaks with arugula and Parmesan cheese.

www.rodneystrong.com/

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Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon

Rietvallei Wine Estate

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon

These two cabs come from the Rietvallei Wine Estate, located in the Robertson region of South Africa, outside of Johannesburg. This warm, low-rainfall area has excellent lime-rich soils, and is usually known for white wine, sherry, and brandy.

The Rietvallei Estate was founded in 1864 by the Burger family, and for many decades only produced red muscadel (also known as muscat), a sweet dessert wine. The estate’s house style was based on a recipe still to be found nailed behind the cellar door.

Today overseen by sixth generation winemaker Kobus Burger, Rietvallei began to expand its offerings a few years ago. A Chardonnay was first released in 1987, followed by a Sauvignon Blanc in 2001. The selections now include a number of other whites and reds as well.

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This easy-drinking cabernet will appeal most to those who like a lighter style of wine. Although the wine is very dark, the flavor is soft, more like a merlot than a cab. There is also a hint of sweetness as well as tartness. The aroma in the glass, or “nose,” is quite delicate. The finish is short, reflecting the low level of tannins. Enjoy this with a wide range of not too assertive foods, including fish and ‘burgers.

www.rietvallei.co.za/

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Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Welcome to another installment in my series on golfers’ wine projects.  This time the focus is on Theodore Ernest “Ernie” Els, known as “The Big Easy” due to his imposing physical stature along with his fluid, seemingly effortless golf swing.

Els launched his winery in 1999 in Stellenbosch, South Africa [predictably, since he’s a native]. With award-winning winemaker Louis Strydom at the helm, they produced the maiden 2000 vintage of Ernie Els, a ‘classic’ Bordeaux blend. This impressive facility is now home to eight different Els selections.

Wines of varying quality have been made in South Africa for over 350 years. Stellenbosch, in the country’s southwestern Coastal Region, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded growing districts. It is similar to a Mediterranean climate, with an average rainfall of around 25 inches per year. The soils largely consist of clay, with the deeper soils having a considerable amount of granite, just the sort of difficult land that quality grape vines prefer. The majority of the vineyards at Ernie Els Wines are north-facing, with the rows running in an east-west direction, resulting in the optimal utilization of sunlight. In summer, the vineyards’ close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides cool sea breezes that moderate temperatures, extending the ripening period.

Ernie Els Big Easy White 2011

Yes, Els rather cheekily labeled these wines after his nickname. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc, with no oak aging whatsoever. The wine is pale gold, and the nose is delicately perfumed. The prominent flavor is grapefruit, with a hint of almond and spice. There is plenty of acid, complementing the grapefruit flavor profile, with the finish featuring some of grapefruit’s bitterness, as well.

Match this wine with New Orleans-style Barbecued Shrimp, Chicken Clemençeau, or Cheese Soufflé.

ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-chenin-blanc/

Ernie Els Big Easy Red 2010

This red blend is 60% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Mouvedre, Grenache, Cinsaut, and Viognier (with the exception of the Cab, this is a typical Bordeaux blend). It is dark purple in the glass, with a rather boozy nose. It was barrel aged for 12 months in 80% French and 20% American oak.
The palate is dense and full bodied, with plenty of tannins. Earthy flavors of black cherries, coffee, and chocolate predominate, and are smoothly integrated. A hint of cocoa on the finish delivers a slight bitterness that is less welcome than it is in the Big Easy White.

Serve this red with Steak and Truffled Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Chicken wth Watermelon Relish, or Garlic Pork Roast.

ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-red-blend/

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Deerfield Ranch Winery

deerfield ranch wineryDeerfield Ranch Winery

Sonoma County is situated between Napa County to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Sonoma has over 175 wineries, second only to the somewhat more famous Napa in number of U. S. wineries.

The Sonoma Valley AVA [American Viticultural Area] is in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, and is home to Deerfield Ranch Winery. This boutique winery is owned and operated by the affable and effusive Robert Rex. He makes the wine, and his wife PJ manages the business side. Many wineries today tout themselves as “small, family-run,” but this one truly is.

Deerfield Ranch is a certified organic producer, even now still one of the few in Sonoma County, with an annual output of about 15,000 cases.

Trained as a chemist, in 1972 Robert was given a winemaking kit by then-girlfriend PJ in appreciation for keeping her finicky Alfa Romeo running. That first Zinfandel won Best of Show at the California State Fair, and Robert soon left the chemistry lab in favor of the wine cave.

Robert is an enthusiastic proponent of the art of blending wines, and says, “Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients. By drawing from 26 vineyards we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, and use the most gentle production techniques. We make wine by hand in small lots; the wines are clean, have very low histamine and sulfite levels, so that they produce no headaches or allergic reactions.”

Deerfield Ranch Winery Los Chamizal Chardonnay 2009

This pale-gold elixer opens with delicate aromas of honey and apricot. The French white oak in which it was barreled for 10 months is present in the taste, but plays a subtle supporting role to the balanced acidity and flavors of green apple, fresh mint, and grapefruit.

Try this wine with Sauteed Black Sea Bass with Red Peppers, Grilled Herbed Salmon with Shrimp, or Chicken Burgers with Chive Sauce.

Deerfield Ranch Winery Red Rex 2006

Showcasing Robert Rex’s ideas about blending, Red Rex is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The ratio is on the bottle, but you’re unlikely to get the same results if you try the recipe at home!

After harvest, the wine was barrel aged for 36 months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Red Rex is nearly opaque without being cloudy, with a nose of dark cherries, berries, and spice box. On the palate, the wine tends toward a leaner French style; there is a medium-weight feel, with flavors of the same cherries and berries, complemented by black pepper and minerals, then ending in a medium finish.

This is Deerfield’s most popular wine; enjoy it with Boeuf Bourguignon, Hamburger au Poivre with Red-Wine Sauce, or Pork Chops Milanese.

www.deerfieldranch.com/home.html

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Migration Wines

Migration Wines
Click here for tasting notes.

Migration Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Duckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.  Migration was established in 2001 to focus first on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

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Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki

Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki.
Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki. Click here for tasting notes.
Kourtaki Retsina

The Greek wine even Greeks won’t drink. At least, all of the Greek-Americans I know won’t.  And my local Greek restaurant recently quit carrying Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki (the only retsina they had), citing a total lack of demand from their customers. Quite a bold move, considering Retsina is routinely called the “iconic wine of Greece” and is ingrained in the food and drink culture of the nation. Continue reading “Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki”

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Clos du Bois Wine

Clos du Bois Marlstone 2005 and Clos du Bois Calcaire 2007
Clos du Bois Marlstone 2005 and Clos du Bois Calcaire 2007. Click here for tasting notes.

Clos du Bois Wine

Although it sounds French, the Clos du Bois [klow doo bwa] winery is definitely American. Clos du Bois was founded in 1974 by Frank Woods, who planned on simply naming his new winery “Woods Vineyard.” His children, who were studying French at the time, suggested “Clos du Bois” instead, which loosely translates to “enclosure in the woods.”

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Lot 25 Wine

Lot 25 WineLot 25 Wine

Lot 205 is the undercover label of the well-regarded Cartlidge and Browne winery. Although they acknowledge their Rabid, Manzanita Canyon, and Stratford sub-brands, Lot 205 is their secret agent, for reasons known only to them (the price points of all of these labels are approximately the same).

The name is taken from C&B’s former street address in American Canyon at the southern end of Napa Valley. The fruit, however, is sourced from growers throughout California.

Winemaker Paul Moser leans toward the French style, with an emphasis on the correct expression of the grape variety; the predominance of fruit over oak; making the wines dry and food-friendly; keeping the alcohol levels in check; and offering good value in table wines meant for everyday consumption.

Lot 205 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This wine is primarily Paso Robles Cabernet (82%) and Merlot (12%). The taste is fruit-forward, with dominant cherry supported by tobacco and mocha notes. It has a medium body and color, and is well-balanced by smooth, restrained tannins.

Partner this cab with jerk-rubbed chicken thighs, balsamic-marinated flank steak, and grilled lamb chops.

Lot 205 Chardonnay 2006

Although present, oak is a supporting player in this chardonnay, letting the apple, citrus, and pineapple come to the fore. It’s a bit sweeter than I expected, with a hint of butterscotch.

www.cartlidgeandbrowne.com/index.html#top

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Pillar Box Winery

Pillar Box Red and Pillar Box White

Pillar Box Winery

A pillar box is what mail boxes are called Down Under as well as in England.

Pillar boxes lined the coach-driven mail routes, or ‘drives,’ established in the 1850s to provide mail service to the farmers and settlers then moving into southeastern South Australia. One such route in Padthaway was operated by Henry John Hill, and ran through property now owned by the third generation of the Longbottom family.

In 1992 Kim and Mark Longbottom decided to expand their farming operation into winemaking, and released their first offering in 1996. In a nod to the history of the mail route that once passed through the vineyards, today the family’s wine business is known as Henry’s Drive Vignerons.

The Padthaway region was once covered by the ocean. The receding waters left behind a limestone subsoil topped by rich red loamy earth. This soil structure combines with good winter rains and mild sunny summers to make Padthaway well-suited for viticulture. The first vines were planted there in 1964, and it has come to be one of Australia’s premier wine-producing regions.

Pillar Box Red 2005

A blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 32% shiraz, and 11% merlot. The color is opaque purple, with a European-style flavor profile. The fruit is somewhat recessive, with nice astringency and enough tannin for structure. An excellent value, and 2005 is only the second vintage.

Pair this muscular wine with roasted or grilled beef or pork, blue cheese stuffed hamburgers, or a full-flavored, tomato sauced lasagna.

Pillar Box White 2006

A blend of 66% chardonnay, 20% sauvignon blanc, and 14% verdelho. The dominant taste is grapefruit, supported by lemon and citrus zest and racy, minerally acid. This makes for a tart, zippy, refreshing wine, ideal for this time of year. The color is pale straw yellow with a green tinge.

Try this wine with grilled or baked fish, a cheese course, shrimp on the barby (of course), or even tortilla chips and salsa.

This month’s wines are both sealed with screw caps. Screw caps have long been associated with low-quality wines. However, this has begun to change because of the perennial problem of “cork taint.” Cork taint is caused by complex chemical mechanisms triggered by the presence of microscopic fungi in the cork. Although not hazardous, cork taint does ruin the wine with a musty, wet cardboard smell and taste.

Screws caps are seen as a solution to this problem, and less tradition-bound Aussies are using them extensively on wines at every quality level. Commendable as that may be, I still prefer a cork, even if it is a well-made artificial one.

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Martin Miller’s Gin

Martin Miller’s GinMartin Miller’s Gin

Martin Miller was an English multi-millionaire, entrepreneur, connoisseur, and self-described enthusiast of “leggy women, cigarettes, and gin.” The restless Miller built his fortune on guides to antiques, investing, and real estate ventures.

In 1999, he decided to expand into spirits. At the time, premium vodkas were being introduced at a prolific rate, while gin languished. Determined to rectify that, Miller introduced the eponymous Martin Miller’s Gin.

Miller’s is batch distilled, like malt whiskey, in a 100-year-old still named Angela. The recipe features the requisite juniper, plus lemon, lime, Seville orange peel, coriander, licorice, cinnamon, cassia, and nutmeg. After distillation, the cask-strength spirit is shipped to Iceland, where it is cut with water from the local glaciers.

The Miller’s Gin flavor profile is in the traditional English style. First comes the green pine of the juniper, quickly followed by the citrus component. The finish is smooth, with just a hint of the sweetness found in superior gins.

Miller’s is offered as an 80 proof bottling, as well as a 90.4 proof “Westbourne Strength.”

www.martinmillersgin.com/

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