Category: Review

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Simi Wines

Simi Wines

Although Napa Valley is considered by many to be California’s preeminent winemaking region, Sonoma County just to the west offers many pleasures as well, particularly the wines from Alexander Valley, which is one of my personal favorites.

The Simi brothers immigrated from Tuscany, Italy, to California during the Gold Rush of 1876. They soon discovered the rolling hills of Sonoma County near San Francisco, which reminded them of home. In 1881 they established their winemaking operations in Healdsburg, where they completed construction of Simi’s first stone cellar in 1890. The winery has been in continuous operation ever since, giving it the distinction as California’s oldest.

Early success led to doubling the size of the winery by 1904, and it continued to grow until the disaster of Prohibition in 1920. Forbidden to sell their wine, Simi continued to make and store wine for the 15 years that Prohibition lasted. (They were able to sell “sacramental” wine during this time, which provided a much-needed income to barely keep the winery in operation.)
With Repeal in 1933, Simi was ready with a large supply of perfectly cellared wine to sell, and with their survival we are able to enjoy their products today.

Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

If you are a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Simi Alexander Valley is an excellent choice for everyday drinking (the $26 list price is often discounted).
Simi sources the grapes for this wine from the nearly 600 acres they own devoted to red wine production. The diverse soils of these vineyards are a result of eons of geologic activity, including a catastrophic landslide which changed the course of the Russian River.

The color is the usual dense, dark red purple. The nose offers blackberry, cassis, and plum. It serves up ripe black cherry and blackberry on the tongue. This Cabernet is medium-bodied, with moderate tannins and a touch of vanilla and oak for structure. The wine shows good legs, and the 13.5% alcohol level is right in line with current winemaking style.

Enjoy this Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled skirt steak sandwiches on rye with horseradish mayonnaise, roast prime rib au poivre, and grilled Tuscan pork rib roast with rosemary coating and red bell pepper relish.

Simi Sonoma County Chardonnay 2007

This very pale gold Chardonnay features nicely balanced notes of lemon and citrus paired with a crisp, lively acidity. The nose is ripe melon and slight white peach. The fruit flavors are supported by an unassuming oak floor.
Pair this creamy smooth wine with richer foods such as baked salmon filled with mascarpone spinach, baked cod with tarragon butter, or pork sauté with caramelized pears.

www.simiwinery.com/wines#

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Philipponnat Brut Royal Reserve Champagne

NV Philipponnat Brut Royal Reserve Champagne
Click here for tasting notes.

Philipponnat Champagne

Philipponnat is one of Champagne’s most historically significant houses—famous among collectors, sommeliers, and serious Champagne lovers.

Philipponnat stands among the oldest winegrowing families in Champagne, with documented roots in 1522. The family originally served as suppliers to the royal courts and maintained vineyards throughout the Marne Valley.

The modern house was formally established in the early 20th century and rose to international prominence after 1935, when the family acquired one of Champagne’s greatest terroirs: Clos des Goisses, a steep, sun-drenched hillside in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ that would become the estate’s calling card.

Today, the house is owned by the Lanson-BCC group, but remains family-influenced, with Charles Philipponnat (a direct descendant) serving as Director—largely credited with elevating quality, transparency, and terroir focus.

Terroir and Viticulture

Philipponnat sources grapes primarily from ;Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (their home commune; premier cru); Aÿ, Avenay-Val-d’Or; Mutigny (Pinot Noir strongholds); and select Côte des Blancs parcels for Chardonnay. About 20–25% of production comes from estate-owned vineyards, unusually high for a mid-size Champagne house.

Signature Style

Philipponnat is known for their Pinot Noir–dominant blends. These wines feature richness and viscosity, and are often barrel-fermented. They use first-press juice only. No taille goes into their Champagnes.

Philipponnat Brut Royal Reserve  Champagne NV

This is Philipponnat’s flagship NV cuvée, composed of 65 to 70% Pinot Noir blended with Chardonnay and a bit of Pinot Meunier.

It is made in the traditional method: a second fermentation occurs in the bottle after the addition of the “liqueur de tirage” (natural fermenting agents and a small quantity of cane sugar). Wines from previous years are incorporated (up to 20%) to maintain the house style.

This wine features plenty of effervescence, so there is a caldron of those tiny bubbles in the glass. It features an appealing light honey color. It is quite dry, which allows the pleasant yeastiness to come through, with flavors of brioche and gentle toast. There are also hints of apple and citrus peel. The nicely balanced acidity lends structure, but leaves a hint of bitterness on the finish.

Although incorrectly used as a generic term for all sparkling wines, Champagne comes only from the Champagne region of France. Too often reserved for special occasions, sparklers deserve to be sampled more often. They make excellent aperitifs, and pair well with a wide range of foods; fish obviously (try them with sushi), spicy Thai dishes, and fruits and desserts, to name a few.

philipponnat.com/pages-en/wines

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Byington Alliage Cabernet and Field of Dreams Moscato

Byington Alliage Cabernet and Field of Dreams Moscato

Byington Winery

In this post, I’m reviewing two distinctly different wines: Byington Alliage Cabernet and Field of Dreams Moscato

Byington Alliage Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

This Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon comes from an Iowa farm boy who amassed enough wealth as a northern California industrialist that he was able to realize his dream of becoming a winery owner.

Along with the primary grape, it features 11% Cabernet Franc and 9% Syrah, both of which enhance its structure. There is also a very slight sweetness reminiscent of cassis and raisins, as well as a hint of licorice. The lingering and pronounced tannins will appeal to some, while others will want to hold this wine in the cellar for three or four years to allow the tannins to soften. The inky density and good legs suggest such patience will be rewarded. Let this wine breathe for 30 minutes or so before pouring. Then, serve with mildly seasoned pork or chicken.

byington.wine/products/2014-byington-cabernet-sauvignon-alliage

Byington Field of Dreams Moscato 2006

Although made in the Italian Asti style, this Moscato actually comes from Australia’s Barossa Valley. It is one of the few varietals that, when turned to wine, tastes as fresh as the grape from which it is made.

Yes, it is sweet, but not cloying. And although there are tiny bubbles in the glass, there is no fizz. If you like Coke or Pepsi with dinner, you could pair it with the entree, but I’d save it for dessert, especially fresh fruit or delicate cookies.

With an alcohol content of only 8%, it would even be welcome at weekend brunch with waffles or pancakes, instead of the more traditional champagne.

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