Reviews of wines and spirits for the curious drinker.
If you’re looking at premium blancos in the $40–50 range, Mijenta Blanco has become one of the most respected modern tequilas among agave enthusiasts. It was created by master distiller (maestra tequilera) Ana María Romero Mena, one of the most highly regarded tequila experts in Mexico.
Cava de Oro Tequila Extra Anejo
Cava de Oro is a tequila brand produced in Jalisco, Mexico at a facility historically known as Tequilera Puerta de Hierro (NOM 1477), near the town of El Arenal, Jalisco. The brand traces back to founders Gildardo Partida Meléndez and Leticia Hermosillo Ravelero, who began working in the agave fields in the early 1990s — planting, harvesting, cultivating and marketing blue agave (specifically the 100 % Blue Weber agave used for tequila). Over time, the facility expanded, first installing an “alembic” (still), then packaging equipment, and eventually launching the Cava de Oro brand.
Clase Azul Reposado
As you can see, Clase Azul tequilas come in some of the most distinctive bottles out there, made in the mountainous Mexican town of Santa Maria Canchesda, population 1,750. There, the 180 or so employees, 80% of whom are women who grew up in poverty and with little, if any, formal schooling, decorate each bottle by hand. The entire production process takes about two weeks. And the cap isn’t chrome-plated plastic. Oh no. It is metal, that drinkers will often strike to produce a little ring after the pour. “You may have heard people talk about ‘ringing the bell’ on their Clase Azul bottle, which was actually discovered quite by accident” mentions Brand Experience Specialist Saskia Iha. “In order to use a more sustainable material, we redesigned the cap which happened to make a ringing sound when tapped just the right way. We now consider this sound the ‘unleashing’ of the magic inside the bottle.” Whatevs.
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Codigo 1530 Tequila
Anyone keeping abreast of celebrity news knows that tequila is a hot market. In June2017, actor George Clooney and his two partners sold their tequila company, Casamigos, for around $1 billion. Their initial investment was $1.8 million. In May 2007, rock musician Sammy Hagar sold an 80% stake in tequila company Cabo Wabo for $80 million.
Camarena Tequila
Winter is behind us for yet another year, so thoughts turn to relaxed evenings on the deck or patio, steaks or shrimp sizzling on the grill, and something cool and refreshing in the glass. A crisp Chardonnay or ice-cold beer are nice, of course, but it’s hard to beat a well-made Margarita (no sweet-and-sour mix!) when the weather gets pleasant.
Cuervo Reserva de la Familia is the world’s first extra-añejo tequila. It is drawn from the Cuervo® family’s private reserve collection of tequilas, relying on a family recipe handed down over ten generations. Each bottle is numbered, dated, and sealed in wax. All by hand. The tequila is made using only the flavorful inner portion of hand-selected blue agave plants harvested at peak maturity after seven to twelve years of growing in the field. After distillation, it is aged in French and American oak barrels for a minimum of two years, although the final blend includes tequila from reserves as old as 30 years.
Definitely not for shots or margaritas, Reserva de la Familia is best served in a snifter, allowing for full appreciation of its flavors and aromas of rich oak, toasted almonds, vanilla, and cinnamon. There is a long and velvety finish. At about $170 per 750ml bottle, this is a rare treat for most of us, but worth it if you can swing it. Cuervo commissions a different well-known Mexican artist each year to design the wooden presentation box Reserva de la Familia comes in, so the current offering won’t match this photograph.
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Partida Tequila is one of only a few remaining authentic estate-produced and estate-bottled tequilas, made in the heart of Mexico’s historic Tequila region.
Partida uses only 100% pure blue agave, which is far less common than many realize. The agave plants see seven to ten years from seedling to harvest, so that they mature fully. (Some tequila brands are content with half that time.) After the agave is slow-cooked, the resulting liquid is distilled twice.
Partida Blanco goes directly to the bottle from the still. It features aromas of grilled pineapple and plums. The taste continues with pineapple, plus toasted coconut and black pepper. It inishes with agave and fresh herbs.
Partida Reposado is aged for six months, making for a pale golden color and a taste with hints of spicy oak and vanilla. The medium body has cocoa and dried cherry notes. Finishes with a long mineral fade. Great vitality and balance, and my favorite of the three.
Partida Añejo sees 18 months in barrel (rare even among premium brands). It is golden amber in color, with aromas of almonds, dried cherries, and spices. The dryish medium body delivers soft honey, delicate herbs, cocoa, and clove. Finishes with a touch of wood and toffee.
For the extremely well-heeled, Partida Elegante Extra Anejo is also available.
It would be criminal to slam any of these tequilas as shots (although you can do that if you insist). Savoring them in a brandy snifter would be far more appropriate. Arriba! Andalay!
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