Simon Creek American Viognier NV
Wisconsin native Thomas J. (Tim) Lawrie had a 26-year career in the U.S. Army, including two tours in Vietnam as a combat officer, and was awarded the Purple Heart. He served as an Army Infantry Airborne soldier before finally retiring with the rank of Colonel. After which, he was almost universally referred to as, “The Colonel,” a somewhat surprising affectation for a Northerner, I think. As with most military personnel, he had assignments throughout the country, including California, where he acquired an interest in wine and wine production.
After a second vocation in the Texas energy business, in 2002 he was presented with the opportunity to buy 120 acres in central Door County, 20 miles northeast of Sturgeon Bay where he had grown up as a boy. He decided this would be the perfect place for a winery, and bought it sight unseen.
Simon Creek Vineyards opened in May of 2003, and The Colonel operated it until his unexpected death at the age of 73 in August, 2017. The winery manager now and winemaker is the late Colonel’s son-in-law, Lance Nelson, a veteran of the packaged foods industry. He gets encouragement and support from consulting winemaker Tom Payette. With over 30 years of experience, Virginia-based Payette set the stage for the winery’s startup, and continues to work as Nelson’s teacher and mentor.
Early on, there were ambitions to grow grapes on the estate, but northern Wisconsin’s harsh winters soon put a stop to that, particularly for the varietals Nelson was interested in working with. Consequently, the winery imports juice for all of their production from California, particularly growers in Monterey county. With over 40,000 acres under vine in Salinas Valley, there is plenty to choose from.
The back labels of the wine bottles do rather disingenuously state, “Simon Creek Vineyard lies directly astride the 45° North Parallel; you couldn’t ask for a better winery site. Simon Creek’s location places it exactly midway between the equator and the North Pole.” Well, yes, but it is truer for places with a more temperate climate. Indeed, Simon Creek tried to grow an estate vineyard for over 20 years, without ever harvesting a single usable grape. In 2026 they gave up, replanting to corn. So, to make wine they truck in juice from their suppliers.
There is an interesting legend associated with the winery’s site. The land was homesteaded by Chris and Martha Simon in the early 20th century. During Prohibition, Al Capone was scouting around for a remote location suitable as a hideout. His attorney, Herbert Humpkie, had a brother in Sturgeon Bay who was working as a veterinarian there. He told Humpkie about the Simon place, who passed the information along to Capone. Thinking their farm would be ideal for his needs, Capone paid the Simons a little friendly visit to make them an offer they couldn’t refuse. But refuse they did. To honor their courage and integrity, the winery produces an Untouchable Red and an Untouchable White, but those are reviews for another day.
Simon Creek American Viognier NV
Viognier is an esteemed white-wine grape that was once very rare because of the limited acreage planed and its low yield. But Viognier has become very popular, and growers around the world have been adding it to their vineyards.
For quite some time, Viognier was available at Simon Creek, but then disappeared because they couldn’t find any juice. But, it’s back, at least for now. The wine pours a very pale yellow in the glass. The nose is surprisingly savory and mineral for Viognier, opening with chalk and sage, followed by green apple and a distinct, slightly funky “cat pee” note. (Yes, that is a real thing.) The palate is clean and straightforward, led by crisp apple with a touch of citrus. Zippy acidity gives the wine considerably more energy than Viognier often displays. There is no apparent oak influence, allowing the fresh fruit and herbal character to remain front and center. The finish is crisp and refreshing rather than broad, oily, or heavily perfumed. All that being said, I don’t think this expression of Simon Creek’s Viognier is as good as the original. ABV is 13.1%.
But if you try it, pair it with Thai or Vietnamese food, coconut shrimp, crab cakes, mildly spicy curries, pork with an apricot or peach component, roast chicken, or richer fish such as salmon.
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