Cascina Baricchi “Rose delle Casasse” Barbaresco Riserva 2018
Cascina Baricchi is a small family estate based in Neviglie, just outside the Barbaresco appellation, although its Barbaresco vineyards are within the denomination, principally at Neive and Treiso. Giovanni Simonetta purchased the property in 1979; his son Natale took over and developed the estate, with the first commercial release under Natale coming in 1996. Early in his career he spent several years working with the legendary Bruno Giacosa, which helps explain the traditional orientation of the wines.
The estate remains relatively under the radar compared with names such as Gaja, Produttori del Barbaresco, or Bruno Giacosa. Its important reds include Barbera d’Alba Riva della Coda and two Barbarescos: Rose delle Casasse Riserva shown here and Quindicianni.
The extraordinary part: Nebbiolo Rosé
Despite the name, this is absolutely not rosé wine. “Rose” in this case refers to Nebbiolo Rosé, an extremely rare historic form related to Nebbiolo. Older literature commonly described Rosé as a Nebbiolo clone or biotype. More recent genetic work indicates that Nebbiolo Rosé is genetically distinct from Nebbiolo, although closely related to it. That distinction is significant because Cascina Baricchi’s wine is believed to be one of—quite possibly the only—Barbaresco made entirely from Nebbiolo Rosé.
Historically, growers weren’t especially fond of Rosé because its skins don’t provide the depth of color associated with other Nebbiolo selections. As growers replanted vineyards, much of it disappeared. Natale Simonetta went the other direction.
The Casasse vineyard
The wine comes from Casasse in Neive, where Simonetta owns about 1.4 hectares [3.5 acres]. The jewel is roughly 0.4 hectare [1 acre] planted in 1913. That makes Rose delle Casasse something close to a grapevine time capsule—a chance to taste a form of Nebbiolo that was much more common a century ago..
Cascina Baricchi “Rose delle Casasse” Barbaresco Riserva 2018
This selection is a genuinely unusual Barbaresco—not simply another small-production Piedmont Nebbiolo. The 2018 vintage generally favored aromatic expression, freshness, and finesse over sheer concentration. That suits Rose delle Casasse unusually well because Nebbiolo Rosé is already prized for perfume and delicacy. The wine saw a long maturation of approximately three years in oak followed by additional bottle aging.
This wine pours a very transparent bright medium red, but that’s deceptive: this is a structured, tannic wine. The nose is predominantly red cherry and raspberry, plus some leather and earth. These really emerge on the palate, plus some blood orange and savory spice, all backed by snappy acidity and nicely balanced tannins. The ABV is 14.5%.
I’d serve it around 60–64°F, using a generous Burgundy/Nebbiolo glass. This 2018 should benefit from an hour or two in a decante.
The wine wants Piedmontese food, like tajarin with meat ragù, agnolotti del plin, brasato, roast duck with porcini, veal, lamb, game birds, mushroom risotto, or aged Parmigiano/Reggiano and other firm cheeses. The combination of high acidity and tannin makes rich meat dishes especially successful.
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