Tag: pinot noir

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Benziger Family Winery

Benziger Family WineryBenziger Winery

Let’s clear up some confusion right away. This column is about the Benziger Family Winery of Sonoma, not the Beringer winery of Napa. But people often make this mistake, as Chris Benziger can attest to.

In the early 1980s, the Benziger family migrated west from White Plains, N.Y. to start a winery in Sonoma. Winemaker Joe Benziger learned his craft by making large production wines for the Glen Ellen brand, but eventually decided that his future lay with a series of small, artisan wines, sustainably produced.

Photo: Shannon Kelly
Photo: Shannon Kelly

 

Photo: Sean Cuevas
Photo: Sean Cuevas

Depending on location, every Benziger vineyard is certified sustainable, organic, or biodynamic, using the most up-to-date green farming practices. But, just what does that mean? Green, sustainable, and organic are words that are often used rather casually. At Benziger, they try to be more precise. Their third-party certified-sustainable vineyard program emphasizes environmentally-sound growing methods, such as biodiversity, soil revitalization, and integrated pest management. Their growers are required to participate in sustainable farming. Organic grape growing avoids the use of synthetic chemicals and uses natural methods like crop rotation, tillage, and natural composts to maintain soil health, as well as natural methods to control weeds, insects, and other pests. The winery itself is certified organic, too.

Photo: Etienne van Gorp
Photo: Etienne van Gorp

 

Organic is an evolutionary step up from sustainable. After that, many Benziger growers move on from certified organic to certified biodynamic. Animals and beneficial gardens play an important part in biodynamic farming techniques. Benziger relies on sheep for the removal of overgrown cover crop, and they replace the need for mowing, disking, and spraying herbicides; they aerate the soil while continuously depositing nutrient-rich fertilizer throughout the vineyard. Olive trees also support the health of the estate.

Benziger Pinot Noir 2017

Even thought deceptively transparent in the glass and light bodied, this Pinot packs plenty of flavor. The immediate sensation is that of cola, followed by juicy fruits, especially strawberry, and subtle spices. The acidity and tannins are in nice harmony.

Invite some friends over and serve this with roast chicken with endive and potatoes, baked fish with sorrel béarnaise (Pinot Noir often works with fish), or lentils with vinaigrette.

Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

This dark-ruby colored wine is very much in a European, rather than California, style. It is quite dry, with zippy acidity. There are flavors of rich berry, cocoa, and mocha, with a hint of cinnamon. Seamless tannins play a supporting role.

This hearty red will go nicely with paté with herbs, steak with shallot sauce, or braised short ribs with carrots.

www.benziger.com/

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Domaine Chanson

Domaine ChansonDomaine Chanson

Beaune, France, may be the wine capital of the Côte D’Or, if not all of Burgundy. It is home to important vineyards, as well as influential wine merchants, or négociants.

One of the oldest of these is Domaine Chanson, founded in 1750. Chanson’s holdings comprise some of Burgundy’s most coveted vineyards (over 94 acres, 17 in white, the rest in red), including 10 Premier Crus and one Grand Cru.

In 1777, Chanson bought the cellars they still occupy today. To store the 100,000 bottles then in inventory, in 1794 they acquired the large round Bastion de l’Oratoire. The bastion is a massive 15th-century fortress and an internationally celebrated icon of Burgundy.

Chanson still vinifies and cellars its wines in the bastion as it has for over 200 years. The 30-foot-thick walls of this ancient fortress make it ideal for winemaking. While the ground floor (the coolest) serves as a vinothèque or “vintage wine library,” vinification and cask-aging take place on the second and third floors.

The bastion holds Chanson’s approximately 3,000 barrels of wine. The proportions of new oak are roughly 25% for whites and 30 to 35% for the reds.

“The temperature of the bastion never varies,” explains Chanson general manager Gilles de Courcel. “It is ideal for cold maceration of the bunches. In the springtime, we might open one of the cellar doors to allow the warm air in. We never accelerate malolactic fermentation. We allow it to occur spontaneously and naturally. We use only the best cuvées and we never hurry the process. This is how we maintain the freshness, purity, and fragrance of the wines.”

Domaine Chanson Clos des Mouches Chardonnay 2010

This Chardonnay is classified as a Premier Cru, Burgundy’s second highest ranking. The grapes came from a vineyard on a mere 4.9 acres of difficult soil mixed with limestone, clay, and silica.

Although this pale gold wine spent 14 months in French oak, both on the nose and palate the wood is delicate and restrained. Aromas and tastes of citrus fruit predominate, with a hint of spice on the long finish. This is a white that needs to breathe for at least 30 minutes.

The generous acidity makes this an excellent food wine. Fish Fillets Poached in White Wine and a Julienne of Vegetables, Fresh Shucked Oysters, or Chicken Fricassee would all pair well.

Domaine Chanson Clos Des Fèves Pinot Noir 2010

Clos loosely translates as “enclosed vineyard.” Clos des Fèves is a rare ‘monopole’ Premier Cru vineyard, where the entire vineyard is owned by a single grower. This 9.4-acre site is one of the highest in Beaune, with an unforgiving soil of clay and limestone.

This Pinot Noir is a transparent ruby in the glass, with aromas of blackberry and plum. After an hour of exposure to air, the wine comes alive with the flavors of the fruit (although as the French prefer, not fruit-forward) and the elegant tannins. The finish is quite long for a Pinot Noir.

This wine calls for classic dishes such as Steak au Poivre, Boeuf Bourguignon, Cassoulet, or Rôti de Porc Grand’ Mère.

www.domaine-chanson.com/en

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Holman Ranch Wines

Holman Ranch WinesMeanwhile, Back at
the Ranch

Much more than just a winery, Holman Ranch in Carmel Valley, California, has a long and rich history. When what is now California was a colony of Spain, the ranch was part of the lands bestowed to the Mission San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo.

The Spanish colonies in North America were transferred to Mexico when that nation won its independence in 1821. Between 1834 and 1836, the Mexican government secularized the mission lands, ostensibly to return the land to the Indians. Nonetheless, one of the first ranchers in Carmel Valley, Don Jose Manuel Boronda, was granted the Los Laureles Rancho. This enormous 6,625 acre parcel of land occupied a huge area of Carmel Valley, including the land where Holman Ranch now sits.

After Boronda’s death, the land passed through many hands, until the Pacific Improvements Company acquired it in 1882. Pacific Improvements eventually sold a section of this land to the man who began the modern story of Holman Ranch, San Francisco businessman Gordon Armsby.

In 1928, Armsby purchased 600 acres in the Los Laureles area of the Valley, including what would eventually be Holman Ranch. Armsby built a classic Spanish-style hacienda on the property. The ranch and its newly-constructed hacienda became Armsby’s secluded vacation estate. Quickly seeing an income opportunity as well, he decided to rent it out to other people looking for a similar escape. The hacienda at the ranch became an exclusive hideaway for many celebrities from Hollywood’s Golden Age, including Charlie Chaplin and Theda Bara.

 

In the 1940s, financial troubles hit Armsby, forcing him to sell the property. The buyer was Clarence Holman, the eldest son of the Holman family of Pacific Grove, and scion of Northern California’s Holman department store empire which thrived from 1891 to 1984. Holman transformed the property into a guest ranch, and it featured the only rodeo arena in town. He built guest bungalows, stables, and the first in-ground pool in Carmel Valley, which is now a historical landmark.

The then newly-christened Holman Ranch quickly became the center of social life in Carmel Valley. In the tradition of their predecessors, the Holman family hosted some of Hollywood’s biggest stars, Clark Gable, Vincent Price, Joan Crawford, and Marlon Brando to name a few.

When Clarence Holman died in 1962, his wife Vivian carried on the legacy of Holman Ranch. She dedicated herself to ensuring that the ranch would never become subdivided, and that it would continue to be the center of local social and community activities.

Rodeos, horse shows, trail rides, barbecues, and fiestas filled the calendar. The Fiesta de los Amigos (the ranch’s birthday celebration), was an annual highlight, often attracting more than 2,000 guests. Vivian Holman presided over the ranch until her death in 1981.

In 1989, Dorothy McEwen stepped in with a commitment to preserve the ranch’s historic past as a private estate and event facility. Back in 1976, she had co-founded Digital Research, Inc., with her husband, Gary Kildall, the developer of  CP/M, the first commercial operating system for personal computers.

Over the course of 16 years, she rebuilt what had become the run-down Holman Ranch, transforming it into a site for weddings, corporate parties, photo shoot,s and charity events. She also built a state-of-the-art equestrian center with facilities for training, riding, and boarding. She planted Holman Ranch’s first acre of grape vines, although her dream of a winery was never realized.

A year after McEwen’s death in 2005, Thomas and Jarman Lowder purchased Holman Ranch, and the winery finally became a reality. The ranch has proven to be quite hospitable for winemaking. The local hills hold back the marine moisture layer and breezes, which is beneficial for producing quality fruit. Sedimentary soils throughout the vineyards provide good soil drainage.

Holman Ranch Carmel Valley Chardonnay 2011

This Chard shows pale gold in the glass. The nose is mostly citrus, with hints of honey and acetone.

The citrus really comes through on the palate, with plenty of lemony tartness. Although this wine spent some time in barrel, you’d hardly know it. If you are averse to heavy, buttery Chardonnays, then this is the wine for you. That hint of honey is repeated on the long (for a white) finish. And, don’t over chill. Remove it from the refrigerator after just a half-hour or so.

The citrus and acid here would nicely complement Cold Poached Scallops, Sesame Chicken, or Pheasant with Leek and Pecan Stuffing.

Holman Ranch Heather’s Hill Pinot Noir 2011

Heather’s Hill pours a bright, clear ruby into the glass. The nose suggests dusty boysenberry. There is a light to medium body, typical of Pinot Noir. The taste is all about dark stone fruit (and a little cola), supported by moderate tannins and good acidity. There is some zing to the finish, with hints of tobacco as well. Be sure to air out this wine for an hour, or even two.

Enjoy this wine with Pasta Primavera, Raspberry Chicken, or Pork Chops with Black Currant Preserves.

In addition to wines, Holman Ranch also produces olive oil from their 100 tree olive grove. These fully mature trees were originally planted at a Carmel Valley orchard in 1994, and in 2007 were transplanted to Holman Ranch.

The trees are planted in shale, striving for the highest quality production and harvesting results. The fruit is harvested by hand in December. Although the olive grove is not certified organic, organic farming is practiced.

www.holmanranch.com/

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Stoller Vineyards

Stoller VineyardsOn the Trail to Oregon

Dayton, Oregon, in the Dundee Hills AVA and 25 miles southwest of Portland, is home to Stoller Vineyards. Oregon started to become generally known for their wines, particularly Pinot Noir, only about 30 years ago. Stoller is even newer, bringing in their first wine in 2001.

In 1993, Bill Stoller purchased from a cousin the turkey farm where he had been raised as a boy. He knew that the rocky terrain, low-yield soils, and steep hillsides of the property that made general agriculture a difficult and frustrating endeavor would be perfectly suited to grape vines.

He started with 10 acres each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which have now expanded to over 225 acres under cultivation. (Stoller was not a winemaking novice, however. He was already a partner in Chehalem Winery in nearby Newberg, Oregon.)

In addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the vineyards are home to Pinot Gris, Riesling, Tempranillo, Syrah, and Pinot Blanc.

Stoller is committed to sustainable farming practices, employing such innovations as a water reservoir that collects runoff from the winter rains, a solar-powered weather station, and a spring-fed irrigation system that minimizes drip. Stoller is currently working with Oregon State University to study the effects of different cover crop regimes on soil health, vine vigor, and wine quality.

Stoller Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2008

This all-Chardonnay wine offers an excellent balance of bright fruit and acidity. It was barrel fermented and aged in French oak, but since only 30% was new, the wood is present but not dominant. The finishing 100% malolactic fermentation imparted softness and smoothness.

On the nose, aromas of almonds, lemon zest, and brioche are evident. The dry, silky palate features citrus (especially lemon), minerals, and spice.

Serve this Chardonnay with Grilled Lemon Chicken, Crispy Salmon with Spiced Lentils, or Swordfish with Mango and Avocado Salsa.

Stoller Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir 2007

This Stoller Pinot Noir was sourced from their oldest vineyard plantings, at the end of a cool growing season. The wine spent 10 months aging in 60% new / 40% neutral oak.

The wine presents aromas of oak, spice, and vanilla. The taste is well-balanced, with good acidity, medium tannins, and flavors of tart plum, wild strawberry, and raspberry.

This Pinot Noir will go well with Baked Tuna with Tomatoes, Capers and Black Olives, Coq au Vin with Autumn Vegetables (try making the chicken with white wine, though), and Lamb Chops with Prune Chutney.

www.stollerfamilyestate.com/

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WALT Wines

WALT Wines
WALT Bob’s Ranch Pinot Noir and WALT Bob’s Ranch Chardonnay. Click here for tasting notes.

WALT Wines, owned by Kathryn Hall and Craig Hall, is dedicated to the production of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Pacific Coast, spanning nearly 1000 miles and including Sta. Rita Hills, Sonoma County, Anderson Valley, Napa Valley, and the Willamette Valley. They strive to source top fruit from the most distinctive vineyards; practice precise, non-interventionist winemaking; and focus on limited production. The goal is to allow the wines to naturally and honestly express the character of the sites where the wines are grown.

WALT Wines are named after Kathryn Hall’s parents, Bob and Dolores Walt. They were dedicated wine-grape growers who produced six different varietals that were sold to several well-known wineries. For the Walts, growing grapes was the satisfaction of a hard day’s work and the feeling of peace walking through the vineyard before sunset. Kathryn Hall managed the vineyard operations herself from 1982 until 1992.

In 2010 WALT expanded from grape farming to wine production. Today, the winemaking team is led by Vice President, Winemaking Steve Leveque (who also crafts the HALL Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines), and Winemaker Megan Gunderson Paredes. who work in a state-of-the-art winemaking facility aided by a passionate winery staff, and strong vineyard partners.

WALT’s methodology includes: night harvesting; hand sorting every berry; whole cluster pressing of Chardonnay; native yeast fermentation; barrel aging on lees to create more texture, richness, and complexity; and weekly batonnage and topping during the decidedly long malolactic fermentation. The wines are neither fined nor filtered. This can result in a bit of haze, but it is in keeping with the idea that the wine was made with the least intervention and with the highest-quality intentions. By sourcing fruit from quality growers and by utilizing the state-of-the-art winemaking facilities at HALL Wines, they strive to make the best wine possible, while keeping extremely limited production levels.

WALT’s estate vineyard, Bob’s Ranch, was purchased by the Halls in 2014 and is located in the heart of the Petaluma Wind Gap on highway 116 just south of Sebastapol.

WALT Bob’s Ranch Chardonnay 2017

This is primarily Wente clone, which produces mostly small berries, limiting production. There are thirty different blocks at Bobs’ Ranch, with roughly a third planted to Chardonnay.

This wine opens with bright aromas of lemon, apricot, and mango. The palate features an unctious mouthfeel, with flavors of tart citrus and a hint of butter. A near-perfect balance of acidity and creaminess. Super OTW.

Match this wine with grilled Chilean sea bass with citrus-Anaheim salsa; baked monkfish fillets with fines herbes bread crust; or scallops St. Jacques.

WALT Bob’s Ranch Pinot Noir 2017

Cherry cola and black tea express on the nose. Cherry flavors predominate, abetted by dark fruits mingled with raspberry and cinnamon. This is supported by excellent mouthfeel, vibrant minerality, medium acidity, and just a hint of tannins.

Consider serving with balsamic-glazed salmon; chicken with cherry-wine sauce; or Cornish game hens with raspberry gravy.

www.waltwines.com/

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Benziger Family Winery

Benziger Family WineryBenziger Winery

In the early 1980s, the Benziger family (not to be confused with Beringer, although they often are) migrated west from White Plains, N.Y., and started a winery on Sonoma Mountain. Winemaker Joe Benziger learned his craft by making large production wines for the Glen Ellen brand, but eventually decided that his future lay with a series of small, artisan wines, sustainably produced.

Depending on location, every Benziger vineyard is certified sustainable, organic, or biodynamic, using the most up-to-date green farming practices. But, just what does that mean? Green, sustainable, and organic are words that are often used rather casually. At Benziger, they try to be more precise.

Their third-party certified-sustainable vineyard program emphasizes environmentally-sound growing methods, such as biodiversity, soil revitalization, and integrated pest management. Their growers are required to participate in sustainable farming.

Organic grape growing avoids the use of synthetic chemicals and uses natural methods like crop rotation, tillage, and natural composts to maintain soil health, as well as natural methods to control weeds, insects, and other pests. The winery itself is certified organic, too. Organic is an evolutionary step up from sustainable. After that, many Benziger growers move on from certified organic to certified biodynamic.

Animals and beneficial gardens play an important part in biodynamic farming techniques. Benziger relies on sheep for the removal of overgrown cover crop, and they replace the need for mowing, disking, and spraying herbicides; they aerate the soil while continuously depositing nutrient-rich fertilizer throughout the vineyard.

Olive trees also support the health of the estate. Olives often grow well in the same climates and soils as wine grapes, and Benziger has been offering an Estate Biodynamic Olive Oil for a number of years.

Benziger North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2014

This very pale-yellow sipper is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from the North Coast appellation of Sonoma County. It opens with hints of melon on the nose. There is a subtle sweetness in the taste, suggesting peaches. The acidity comes on reminiscent of Key lime. It ends with a bit of bubbly on the finish.

Pair this easy-going wine with tabbouleh, braised swordfish in white wine, or grilled shrimp in a Catalan almond sauce.

Benziger Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2014

This selection looks more like cherry Kool-Aid than wine, but it’s wine, for sure. The understated nose features raspberry and sweet earth. The taste is cherry, alright, but this time of the tart variety. There is a medium finish with restrained tannins.

This easy-to-drink Pinot would go nicely with steam-poached salmon, Spanish chicken with sweet peppers, or Andalusian braised lamb shanks with honey.

www.benziger.com/

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Byron Wines

Byron WinesByron Wines

Designated in 1981, the Santa Maria Valley AVA is located in the northernmost part of Santa Barbara County, just east of Santa Maria city. The east–west orientation of the wide, open valley means cool winds and fog flow in freely from the Pacific Ocean, settling most noticeably in lower-lying areas. This cool maritime influence lengthens the growing season (among the longest in the world), and contributes to the eventual sugar/acid balance in Santa Maria Valley’s wines.

The first Santa Barbara County vineyard established in the 20th century was planted in 1964 by Uriel Nielson; it has been Byron Winery’s estate vineyard for over 60 years. 18 miles inland from the Pacific, this historic benchland vineyard serves as a model for Santa Barbara’s viticultural experimentation and sustainable farming methods (It is California Sustainable Winegrowing Certified).

Nielson was largely replanted in 1991, and it has since been enhanced with considerable investment. A new 4,000-barrel-capacity winery has been built, and in 2014, Byron returned to its focus on single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, presenting this unusual opportunity to review two very different wines from the same vineyard.

Byron  Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay 2014

This light-golden-hued wine hails from the original “Wente” clone, which at Byron was originally planted in 1964 and again in 1999. The harvest was fermented in barrel with full malolactic fermentation, and then aged in the same barrels (French oak, 54% new) for 15 months. The resulting wine features aromas of butter and mango. The palate is full-bodied and has a rich mouthfeel, with hints of apricot, lemon, grapefruit, and minerals.

Try this Chardonnay with roasted halibut with romesco and pine nut butter; Dungeness crab salad with mango vinaigrette; or seared sea scallops with coconut risotto.

Byron Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Three Pinot clones were used for this wine. They came from the east end of the property, which is very sandy with outcroppings of shale and limestone. The fruit was aged in 35% new French oak.

This expression of the ever-obstinate pinot noir is rich ruby-hued in the glass, with mouth-watering aromas of dark fruits, brown spice, smoke, and dried thyme Those scents carry on to the the flavor, especially wild blackberry. The whole shebang is supported by good acidity and astringent tannins.

Serve this wine with seared Muscovy duck breast with saffron risotto; sausage-stuffed calamari; or smoked pork tenderloin with vanilla jus.

www.byronwines.com/

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Cuvaison Winery

Cuvaison Chardonnay and Pinot NoirCuvaison Winery

Established in 1969, Cuvaison (French for maceration, the period of time grape juice spends in contact with the skins and seeds) is an estate vineyard and winery that produces primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both grown exclusively in the Carneros AVA on the northern end of both Sonoma and Napa. When the winery was founded, the Carneros region was little known for grape growing, and much of the acreage was pastureland. But, the area’s cool bay breezes and frequent fog are ideal for wine, and it is now home to thirty-one wineries and an equal number of growers.

Cuvaison is certified sustainable under the Napa Green designation, meaning they have been recognized for their work in reducing the impact on the environment. The winery is 85% solar powered; they have invested in a water recirculation/conservation program (quite critical as California often suffers from severe drought); and they started a cork recycling program where wine club members and neighboring wineries bring their popped corks to be ground for repurposing.

Steve Rogstad, yet another graduate of UC Davis’ viticulture and enology program, has been winemaker since 2002. While working on a six-month post-graduate internship in Beaujolais, Steve discovered that, “Working with just one varietal and tasting fifty different wines from one region, I really started to understand the concept of terroir. It made an impression that lasts to this day.” The experience also taught Rogstad how to isolate and work with small wine lots, a practice that is at the core of his winemaking philosophy. In addition to Cuvaison, Rogstad has worked at such well-known wineries as La Crema, Saintsbury, Rombauer, Spring Mountain, and Clos Pegase.

Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay 2012

This Chardonnay is over half of Cuvaison’s yearly production, so a lot is riding on what’s in the bottle. 20% of this Chard saw new French oak for eight months. There was about 60% malolactic conversion, but it is not overly buttery or lacking in varietal characteristics. It presents a pale yellow in the glass, understating the fulsomeness to come. On the nose, you are greeted with aromas of honeysuckle, honeydew melon, and sweet citrus. These continue on the well-balanced palate, plus the addition of crisp stone fruit such as white peach, apricot, and nectarine.This is supported by a nice lemon/lime acidity.

Enjoy this wine with Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, Cool Honeydew-Mint Soup, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.

Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir 2013

This Pinot Noir is classically transparent ruby in the glass. It features a light, silky mouthfeel, and the nose offers subtle hints of grass, green herbs, and berries. The palate bursts with raspberry, strawberry, fresh cherry, and cola. These flavors are complemented with balanced acidity and round, understated tannins.

This wine would pair nicely with Tomato and Onion Tart, Summer Vegetable Calzone, or Nut-Crusted Trout with Romesco Sauce.

www.cuvaison.com/

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Migration Wines

Migration Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Migration Wines

Duckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.

Duckhorn established Migration in 2001 in the Anderson Valley. Migration focused first on Pinot Noir. Shaped by the valley’s cool nights, fog-shrouded mornings and mild, sunny afternoons, this inaugural release established Migration’s stylistic identity, producing wines with abundant fruit and bright acidity.

In 2008, Migration produced its first Chardonnay using fruit from vineyard sources in the Russian River Valley. This wine is the first Chardonnay in Duckhorn’s 30-year history. In preparing for the Chardonnay production, Migration saw the potential for Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, and made its first Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in 2008 as well.

Migration was initially guided by young rising-star winemaker Neil Bernardi. A native of northern California, Bernardi studied at the University of California, Davis, the academic epicenter of California viticulture. After taking degrees in Italian and enology, Bernardi set off for New Zealand and found work with Saint Clair Estate, Cape Campbell, and Kim Crawford there. Once back in the States, he became assistant cellarmaster at Quintessa in Saint Helena, California, and then moved on to Littorai in Sonoma in 2007. He joined the Duckhorn family as enologist at Goldeneye. Bernardi became Migration’s winemaker in 2009. He has stated, “Traditionally the character of a particular wine is connected to a specific place. Migration offers a different paradigm. We are starting with a clearly defined style and exploring how that style can be expressed in different regions.” Following his success at Migration, Neil is now Vice President & General Manager – Kosta Browne, Canvasback.

In 2014, Migration acquired the Running Creek Vineyard, located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. This Estate vineyard features 70 acres of Pinot Noir vines and 20 acres of Chardonnay.

In 2017, following her tenure as the winemaker for Decoy, Dana Epperson became the winemaker for Migration, where she has established a reputation for a style of winemaking that seamlessly balances vibrancy and finesse.

Although starting in the Russian River Valley in the inland Santa Rosa area, Migration has continued to expand their sources, heading towards vineyards near the coast for these selections.

There was plenty of rain in Sonoma in the winter and spring of 2017, followed by a warm summer.  A major heat spike occurred just as this fruit was coming to ripeness, requiring fast-paced hand-picking at night.

Migration Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2017

The 100% Chardonnay matured for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 35% new and 65% neutral oak.  It also saw 75% malolactic fermentation.

Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a dominant nose of lemon, with trailing aromas of apple and pear.  The citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit continue on the palate, abetted by hints of vanilla and baking spice. Quite good acidity.

Migration Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2017

The Pinot Noir is 100% varietal, and matured for 10 months in 100% French oak,  35% new and 65% neutral. Sourced from six vineyards in the Green Valley, Russian River Valle,y and Petaluma Gap. A blend of more than 80 small lots of wine that winemaker Epperson has to work with. Excellent quality and value considering the huge production of 23,000 cases.

One is greeted by a bright, festive red color, with cherry and blueberry aromas.  The taste is of tart cherry, cranberry, and subtle oak. The wine is quite dry, silky,  and supported by a backbone of well-balanced tannins. It ends with a medium-length finish.

For a look at another Migration Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, click over to:

winervana.com/migration-wines-review/

www.migrationwines.com/

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Tangley Oaks

Terlato Wine's Tangley Oaks
Tangley Oaks Click here for tasting notes.

Tangley Oaks

Négociant [nay-goh-SYAHN] is the French word for “dealer” or “merchant,” and is used in wine circles to denote an individual or company that negotiates, sells, and ships wine as a wholesaler. Traditionally, négociants have often handled all aspects of wine production except the actual farming, including purchasing grapes, making the wine, blending, bottling, and shipping. In some transactions, there is another intermediary: a courtier or “wine broker,” who helps establish the price paid by a négociant to a small producer. Some of the better known French négociants are Barton & Guestier, Calvet, Cordier, Moueix, and Sichel.

Predominately, négociants have been European, but they do exist in the New World (although you will rarely hear the French word used). One such firm is Terlato Wines, of Lake Bluff, Illinois, which rose from humble beginnings to become a powerhouse in the arena of international wine growing, production, and sales.

In 1938, Anthony Paterno, who would become Tony Terlato’s father-in-law, opened a grocery store on the corner of Grand and Western in Chicago. Nearly twenty years later, Tony Terlato and his father, Salvatore, founded Terlato’s Leading Liquor Marts. In 1958, Terlato and Paterno established Pacific Wine Company, importing and selling wines from California and Europe. By 1995, the business had expanded significantly by forming partnerships with leading wine producers from around the world, enabling the Terlato family to purchase Tangley Oaks, the former Philip D. Armour III mansion in Lake Bluff as their company’s headquarters, where 75 people are employed. The Tudor-Gothic estate, which resembles a European wine château, is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Tangley Oaks Chardonnay 2014

Which explains how a winery in California can be officially located 2100 miles away in Illinois! This is a nicely lemon-hued wine; a mixture of barrel and tank fermentation was employed, after which the wine was aged in barrel for six months. It features aromas of fresh tropical fruit and notes of vanilla; the palate is full-bodied, with pear, nectarine, and a hint of honey, with grapefruit on the finish.

Enjoy this now with Japanese Mero Sea Bass in Carrot Coriander Sauce, Blue Corn-crusted Red Snapper with Warm Tomato Relish, or Smoked Salmon and Brie Pizza.

Tangley Oaks Pinot Noir 2013

Tangly Oaks offers two Pinots; this one hails from California’s North Coast AVA, and was sourced from Napa Carneros, Sonoma, and Mendocino. The wine was aged for nine months in French oak barrels. This ruby-red wine exhibits aromas suggestive of raspberries and strawberries, with hints of pine forest and earth. The lush mouthfeel is complemented by flavors of plum and red fruit, and is balanced by bright acidity and soft tannins.

Uncork this good value with Grilled Chicken with Fresno Chile and Plum Sauce, Pan Roasted Pork Tenderloin filled with Sun-dried Cranberries, or Grilled Tuna Stacked with Heirloom Tomato and Crispy Eggplant.

terlatowines.com/brands/california/tangley-oaks

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Sanford Winery

Sanford WinerySanford Winery

If you’re a film buff as well as a wine fancier, you may remember Lompoc [correctly pronounced Lom-poke], California, as the locale of W.C. Field’s The Bank Dick (although the movie was entirely shot on the studio’s back lot). Lompoc can be translated as “Land of Many Lakes,” and is also known today as the Valley of Flowers, as this rich area is the nation’s most prolific flower-seed producing region.

Lompoc is also home to Sanford Winery, the first such operation in Santa Barbara wine country, established in 1971. From the very beginning, Sanford has sourced its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the Santa Rita Hills, which was designated an AVA in 2001. The area owes its magic to an unusual east-west mountain valley that runs from the vineyards to the Pacific Ocean. This passage allows a meteorological ebb-and-flow of air temperature between the mountains and the sea that is ideal for cool-climate varietals.

The winery itself is located at Rancho La Rinconada. It was completed in 2001 and was inspired by traditional California mission architecture. The walls are constructed of adobe blocks handmade on site. The insulating quality of this material makes it ideal for a winery. With adobe walls thirty inches thick, there is no need for either heating or air conditioning. The cellar interior is 55º to 65º year-round with no energy use.

The winery uses a unique and gentle system to move wine through the facility: a gravity racking system. Four 3600-gallon wine tanks are positioned on hydraulic lifts. The winery crew can move a 14-ton tank of wine below ground or 20 feet in the air. The crew then uses gravity to move wine from tank to barrel (or bottling) without disruptive pumping and agitation of the wine.

Sanford Winery Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2010

This wine was exclusively sourced from Sanford’s two estate vineyards and was fermented in both 60-gallon French oak barrels and stainless steel tanks.
The color is pale gold, with a delicate, ambiguous nose. This makes the intensity of this racy wine on the palate all the more surprising; plenty of bright citrus and pineapple notes supported by “just enough” oak, a bit of floral character, and a dollop of acidity.

I suggest you pair this Chard with Chicken Breast with Artichokes and Mustard Sauce, Smoked Turkey and Roasted Red Pepper Sandwiches, or Seared Scallops with Fiery Fruit Salsa.

Sanford Winery Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Nior 2010

Like the Chardonnay, this wine was exclusively sourced from Sanford’s two estate vineyards. It was then fermented in open-top stainless steel tanks, and finished in French oak barrels for 10 months.

The wine is ruby in the glass, with a nose of tart cherry and orange rind. The dominant cherry notes continue on to the palate; they are complemented by bright acidity and delicate tannins. In keeping with this wine’s subtlety, the body is light and the finish is rather short.

Serve this wine with Sauteed Duck Breast with Pinot Noir Sauce (just don’t squander this Pinot Noir on the sauce), or Salmon en Papillote.

www.sanfordwinery.com/

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River’s Edge and Hinman

River’s Edge Winery and Hinman VineyardsRiver’s Edge Winery is located in the northern-most part of the Umpqua Valley. River’s Edge, founded in 1998, specializes in the production of cool weather varieties such as pinot noir and gewürztraminer. The ocean is only 36 miles away from the winery, and morning fog frequently shrouds the vineyards even in the summer, reflecting the strong marine influence on the climate.

Their two estate vineyards, Black Oak and Elkton, are the primary sources for the wines. These two vineyards were planted in 1972 and are among the oldest in the state.

The River’s Edge wine making style emphasizes a low-tech, hands-on approach utilizing small batch fermentation, exclusively barrel aging, and bottling without fining.

River’s Edge Pinot Gris 2007

Let me announce my bias up front: I’m not that big a fan of Pinot Gris (pee-no gree) and Pinot Grigio (pee-no gree-joe). They are often watery and lacking a distinct character. Not so this one from River’s Edge.

This pinot gris was vinified in the traditional Alsatian manner in older oak barrels, with seven months of aging. The resulting wine has the pale yellow color, citrus/lemon flavor, and ripe pear bouquet typical of this varietal. The boldness of the flavors make it unique, with plenty of structure.

Enjoy this wine with grilled whole red snapper, broiled halibut steaks with tarragon butter, or raw oysters.

www.riversedgewinery.com/

 

Doyle Hinman and David Smith opened Hinman Vineyards in 1979. By 1988, the winery had become Oregon’s top selling winery. In 1993, Hinman started releasing their premium line of reserve wines under the Silvan Ridge label, relegating Hinman to second-tier status.

Silvan Ridge | Hinman Vineyards produces approximately 25,000 cases of wine annually, including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Syrah, Grenache Rosé, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Riesling.

The Hinman winemaking style strives to express classic European technique, while applying new-world innovation.

The fruit for this pinot noir was sourced from the Willamette Valley, which begins just south of Eugene and runs north to Portland. It is Oregon’s coolest growing region and the source for most of the state’s wine grapes. Vineyards are typically located on bench-land hillsides at the western edge of the valley.

Hinman Vineyards Pinot Noir 2007

The color of this pinot noir is like that of cherry juice, and while color is not necessarily a predictor of taste or complexity, this time it’s fairly accurate. This is a simple, fruity wine, with plenty of cherry and berry on the palate. A tad on the sweet side, but with enough acidity to keep things in balance.

Pair this wine with salmon gravlax, risotto with artichokes, or pan-fried soft shell crabs.

www.hinmanvineyards.com/

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Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir and Willow Crest Viognier

Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Willow Crest Viognier from Washington“This weekend is not about me. It is about you. I’m gonna show you a good time. We’re gonna drink a lot of good wine. We’re gonna play some golf. We’re gonna eat some great food and enjoy the scenery and we are going to send you off in style, mon frere.” And so Miles and Jack set off on their most excellent adventure in Sideways, the 2004 film that by some accounts was single-handedly responsible for a 10% increase in sales of pinot noir.

Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir 2005

This pinot noir hails from the cool and foggy Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, California. The Russian River has long been home to winemakers serious about pinot noir, and Leaping Lizard joined their ranks in 1996.

The winemaker is Harry Parducci Jr. He is yet another quality winemaker to come from a family better known for its jug wines, as some Gallos and Martinis are as well.

This wine is a lovely garnet color. There’s plenty of fruit, dominated by bright cherry and rich strawberry. It’s quite well balanced, though, and definitely dry with good supporting tannins and just a hint of oak.

Planked salmon is a classic pairing with pinot noir. (Yes, reds can be quite delicious with fish, especially richer species such as salmon, tuna, and swordfish.) Roast turkey or duck, fruit-glazed pork chops, and grilled barbeque ribs would work well also.

And now for something completely different: we head north to Washington state, and Willow Crest winery’s Yakima-grown viognier (vee-ohn-yay).

This varietal originated in the Rhone area of France, and continues to be extensively cultivated there. In the ‘90s, California’s so-called Rhone Rangers helped to bring it to attention here in the States.

Like Leaping Lizard, Willow Crest is a relative new-comer. After growing grapes for other winemakers in the Yakima Valley for more than a decade, David Minick realized a long-time dream of producing his own wine when he opened Willow Crest in 1995. Most of Minick’s 185 acres of grapes are sold to other winemakers, but he now also retains a small amount of his annual harvest to craft about 3,000 cases of premium wines in his own style, primarily pinot gris and syrah.

Willow Crest Viognier 2005

Viogniers can range from the highly floral and fragrant to a lighter, more balanced aperitif-style, such as this one. It offers delicate aromas of citrus and pear, with a palate that adds melon and apple to the flavor mix. The wine should be only slightly chilled; otherwise its nuances will be masked. Like most viogniers, this is a limited-production wine.

Excellent with white seafood of all kinds. Try it with scallops, whitefish, or sole in a light butter sauce, or pair it with appetizers.

www.willowcrestwinery.com/tasting-rooms/

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Salmon Souffle

salmon souffleSalmon Souffle

There are few things as elegant, or as easy to make, as a souffle.  My stepdaughter and her partner dropped by for Christmas, and he mentioned that, even though he is 45, he had never had a savory souffle, much less made one.  I assured him it was really simple, so I whipped up one with salmon. 

I first learned to make souffles from The New York Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne, and that was the starting place for this one.

The New York Times Cookbook
My well-worn copy of The New York Times Cookbook.

3 Tbl butter
3 Tbl flour
4 oz. sliced mushrooms
1 C milk or half and half
4 eggs, separated
Salt and  dry mustard to taste
2 Tbl teriyaki sauce
14 oz. can salmon

Preheat oven to 375 deg. F.

1.  Melt the butter in a saucepan and saute the mushrooms until lightly browned.
3.  Stir in the flour and blend with a wire whisk.  Meanwhile, drain the salmon into a 1 cup measure.  Add enough milk to come to 1 cup.  Bring the milk to a boil, and add all at once to the butter-flour mixture (aka a roux), stirring with the whisk until thickened and smooth.  Let cool.
3.  Beat in, one at at time, the four egg yolks.  Season with salt, mustard, and teriyaki sauce.
4. Flake the salmon, and blend well into the white sauce and egg mixture.
5.  Using a rotary beater or an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they stand in peaks.  Do not over beat.  Fold the whites gently into the salmon mixture with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, being careful not to overblend.
6.  Pour into a 1-1/2 quart souffle dish, which may be greased or ungreased.  Place in oven and bake thirty to forty minutes.  Serve with Hollandaise sauce.

I paired this salmon souffle with Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2016. This wine pours a jewel-like ruby red into the glass.   The nose greets you with aromas of vanilla and ripe red cherries.   Those cherries come forward on the palate, along with hints of cinnamon and clove.  There is harmonious balance between the oak, acid, and tannins.  It’s all rounded out by a nice medium finish.

www.clospegase.com/

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Migration Wines

Migration WinesMigration Wines

Duckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.  Migration was established in 2001 to focus first on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Unlike the estate-centered efforts of the other labels, Migration is dedicated to going beyond its Anderson Valley origins and exploring Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from many of California’s cool-climate appellations, including the Russian River Valley.

Migration was initially guided by young rising-star winemaker Neil Bernardi. A native of northern California, Bernardi studied at the University of California, Davis, the academic epicenter of California viticulture.

After taking degrees in Italian and enology, Bernardi set off for New Zealand and found work with three famous wineries there, including Kim Crawford. Once back in the States, he became assistant cellarmaster at Quintessa, and then joined the Duckhorn family as enologist at Goldeneye. Bernardi became Migration’s winemaker in 2009. He has stated, “Traditionally the character of a particular wine is connected to a specific place. Migration offers a different paradigm. We are starting with a clearly defined style and exploring how that style can be expressed in different regions.” Following his success at Migration, Neil is now Vice President & General Manager – Kosta Browne, Canvasback.

in 2017, following her tenure as the winemaker for Decoy, Dana Epperson became  the winemaker for Migration, where she has established a reputation for a style of winemaking that seamlessly balances vibrancy and finesse.

Migration Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2008

This first-ever Migration Chardonnay is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from Green Valley, an especially cool region of the Russian River Valley, and three other vineyards. It matured for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels.

The wine introduces itself with a light gold color and lemony nose. The palate features citrus, stone fruit, custard, and a hint of licorice, supported by good acidity and subtle oak. This unique and harmonious combination is both zippy and mellow.

Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007

The dry winter and cool summer of 2007 in Anderson Valley was particularly suited to Pinot Noir, allowing the grapes to ripen super-slowly and evenly.

This Pinot Noir is 100% varietal, and matured for 16 months in 100% French oak. This deep-garnet, medium-bodied wine opens on the nose with blackberry and strawberry notes. The palate is dry, silky, and dominated by tart dark cherry, and supported by a backbone of oak, blackberry, and well-balanced tannins. It ends with a medium-length finish.

www.migrationwines.com/

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