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Rietvallei Wine Estate

Rietvallei Wine EstateRosés Are Red, My Love…

…Cabernets are too. These two cabs come from the Rietvallei Wine Estate, located in the Robertson region of South Africa, outside of Johannesburg. This warm, low-rainfall area has excellent lime-rich soils, and is usually known for white wine, sherry, and brandy.

The Rietvallei Estate was founded in 1864 by the Burger family, and for many decades only produced red muscadel (also known as muscat), a sweet dessert wine. The estate’s house style was based on a recipe still to be found nailed behind the cellar door.

Today overseen by sixth generation winemaker Kobus Burger, Rietvallei began to expand its offerings a few years ago. A Chardonnay was first released in 1987, followed by a Sauvignon Blanc in 2001. The selections now include a number of other whites and reds as well.

Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This easy-drinking cabernet will appeal most to those who like a lighter style of wine. Although the wine is very dark, the flavor is soft, more like a merlot than a cab. There is also a hint of sweetness as well as tartness. The aroma in the glass, or “nose,” is quite delicate. The finish is short, reflecting the low level of tannins. Enjoy this with a wide range of not too assertive foods, including fish and ‘burgers.

Rietvallei Juanita Rosé 2005

A fruity but quite dry rosé made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. A nice tart refreshing taste. Should pair well with any food where sauvignon blanc would be the more usual choice.

https://www.rietvallei.co.za/

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Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines
An Ernest Effort from Els

Welcome to another installment in my series on golfers’ wine projects.  This time the focus is on Theodore Ernest “Ernie” Els, known as “The Big Easy” due to his imposing physical stature along with his fluid, seemingly effortless golf swing.

Els launched his winery in 1999 in Stellenbosch, South Africa [predictably, since he’s a native]. With award-winning winemaker Louis Strydom at the helm, they produced the maiden 2000 vintage of Ernie Els, a ‘classic’ Bordeaux blend. This impressive facility is now home to eight different Els selections.

Wines of varying quality have been made in South Africa for over 350 years. Stellenbosch, in the country’s southwestern Coastal Region, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded growing districts. It is similar to a Mediterranean climate, with an average rainfall of around 25 inches per year. The soils largely consist of clay, with the deeper soils having a considerable amount of granite, just the sort of difficult land that quality grape vines prefer. The majority of the vineyards at Ernie Els Wines are north-facing, with the rows running in an east-west direction, resulting in the optimal utilization of sunlight. In summer, the vineyards’ close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides cool sea breezes that moderate temperatures, extending the ripening period.

 Big Easy White 2011

Yes, Els rather cheekily labeled these wines after his nickname. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc, with no oak aging whatsoever. The wine is pale gold, and the nose is delicately perfumed. The prominent flavor is grapefruit, with a hint of almond and spice. There is plenty of acid, complementing the grapefruit flavor profile, with the finish featuring some of grapefruit’s bitterness, as well.

Match this wine with New Orleans-style Barbecued Shrimp, Chicken Clemençeau, or Cheese Soufflé.

https://ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-chenin-blanc/

Big Easy Red 2010

This red blend is 60% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Mouvedre, Grenache, Cinsaut, and Viognier (with the exception of the Cab, this is a typical Bordeaux blend). It is dark purple in the glass, with a rather boozy nose. It was barrel aged for 12 months in 80% French and 20% American oak.
The palate is dense and full bodied, with plenty of tannins. Earthy flavors of black cherries, coffee, and chocolate predominate, and are smoothly integrated. A hint of cocoa on the finish delivers a slight bitterness that is less welcome than it is in the Big Easy White.

Serve this red with Steak and Truffled Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Chicken wth Watermelon Relish, or Garlic Pork Roast.

https://ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-red-blend/

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Deerfield Ranch Winery

deerfield ranch winery
Between a Rock and a
Wet Place

Sonoma County is situated between Napa County to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Sonoma has over 175 wineries, second only to the somewhat more famous Napa in number of U. S. wineries.

The Sonoma Valley AVA [American Viticultural Area] is in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, and is home to Deerfield Ranch Winery. This boutique winery is owned and operated by the affable and effusive Robert Rex. He makes the wine, and his wife PJ manages the business side. Many wineries today tout themselves as “small, family-run,” but this one truly is.

Deerfield Ranch is a certified organic producer, even now still one of the few in Sonoma County, with an annual output of about 15,000 cases.

Trained as a chemist, in 1972 Robert was given a winemaking kit by then-girlfriend PJ in appreciation for keeping her finicky Alfa Romeo running. That first Zinfandel won Best of Show at the California State Fair, and Robert soon left the chemistry lab in favor of the wine cave.

Robert is an enthusiastic proponent of the art of blending wines, and says, “Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients. By drawing from 26 vineyards we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, and use the most gentle production techniques. We make wine by hand in small lots; the wines are clean, have very low histamine and sulfite levels, so that they produce no headaches or allergic reactions.”

Los Chamizal Chardonnay 2009

This pale-gold elixer opens with delicate aromas of honey and apricot. The French white oak in which it was barreled for 10 months is present in the taste, but plays a subtle supporting role to the balanced acidity and flavors of green apple, fresh mint, and grapefruit.

Try this wine with Sauteed Black Sea Bass with Red Peppers, Grilled Herbed Salmon with Shrimp, or Chicken Burgers with Chive Sauce.

Red Rex 2006

Showcasing Robert Rex’s ideas about blending, Red Rex is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The ratio is on the bottle, but you’re unlikely to get the same results if you try the recipe at home!

After harvest, the wine was barrel aged for 36 months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Red Rex is nearly opaque without being cloudy, with a nose of dark cherries, berries, and spice box. On the palate, the wine tends toward a leaner French style; there is a medium-weight feel, with flavors of the same cherries and berries, complemented by black pepper and minerals, then ending in a medium finish.

This is Deerfield’s most popular wine; enjoy it with Boeuf Bourguignon, Hamburger au Poivre with Red-Wine Sauce, or Pork Chops Milanese.

https://www.deerfieldranch.com/home.html

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Annika Vineyards Chardonnay

Annika Vineyards Chardonnay
A joint venture between LPGA golfer Annika Sorenstam and Wente Vineyards, Annika Vineyard’s second offering was a 2008 Chardonnay. It joined the 2006 Syrah which was the winery’s inaugural release.

The pale-golden Annika Chardonnay opens with the classic aromas of pear and apple. The mouthfeel is soft and lush, with a palate of cantaloupe, apricot, peach, and tangerine. The slightly sweet sensation is balanced by just enough acidity to be refreshing. The finish features toasty vanilla and ground spice flavors.

Sorenstam, working closely with winemaker Karl Wente, selected Chardonnay grapes from two Wente estate vineyards; these vineyards were chosen for their exceptional fruit and production consistency. After the grapes were picked and sorted by hand, the wine underwent a long, cool barrel fermentation in a combination of French, American, Eastern European, and neutral oak, and was aged for 17 months.

Located just east of San Francisco in the historic Livermore Valley, Wente Vineyards is the country’s oldest continuously operated family-owned winery. After learning about winemaking from Charles Krug, C. H. Wente, a first-generation immigrant from Germany, founded the winery in 1883 on 48 acres that offered the ideal grape-growing criteria of warm days, cool nights, and gravelly soils.

The winery is led today by the fourth- and fifth-generations of the Wente family. Blending traditional and innovative winemaking practices, the winery now draws from 3,000 acres of sustainably farmed estate vineyards.

http://cwcwines.com/menu-item/annika-vineyard/

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Migration Wines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Migration WinesDuckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.  Migration was established in 2001 to focus first on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Unlike the estate-centered efforts of the other labels, Migration is dedicated to going beyond its Anderson Valley origins and exploring Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from many of California’s cool-climate appellations, including the Russian River Valley.

Migration was initially guided by young rising-star winemaker Neil Bernardi. A native of northern California, Bernardi studied at the University of California, Davis, the academic epicenter of California viticulture.

After taking degrees in Italian and enology, Bernardi set off for New Zealand and found work with three famous wineries there, including Kim Crawford. Once back in the States, he became assistant cellarmaster at Quintessa, and then joined the Duckhorn family as enologist at Goldeneye. Bernardi became Migration’s winemaker in 2009. He has stated, “Traditionally the character of a particular wine is connected to a specific place. Migration offers a different paradigm. We are starting with a clearly defined style and exploring how that style can be expressed in different regions.” Following his success at Migration, Neil is now Vice President & General Manager – Kosta Browne, Canvasback.

in 2017, following her tenure as the winemaker for Decoy, Dana Epperson became  the winemaker for Migration, where she has established a reputation for a style of winemaking that seamlessly balances vibrancy and finesse.

Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2008

This first-ever Migration Chardonnay is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from Green Valley, an especially cool region of the Russian River Valley, and three other vineyards. It matured for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels.

The wine introduces itself with a light gold color and lemony nose. The palate features citrus, stone fruit, custard, and a hint of licorice, supported by good acidity and subtle oak. This unique and harmonious combination is both zippy and mellow.

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007

The dry winter and cool summer of 2007 in Anderson Valley was particularly suited to Pinot Noir, allowing the grapes to ripen super-slowly and evenly.

This Pinot Noir is 100% varietal, and matured for 16 months in 100% French oak. This deep-garnet, medium-bodied wine opens on the nose with blackberry and strawberry notes. The palate is dry, silky, and dominated by tart dark cherry, and supported by a backbone of oak, blackberry, and well-balanced tannins. It ends with a medium-length finish.

https://www.migrationwines.com/

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Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki

Kourtaki Retsina of AttikiThe Greek wine even Greeks won’t drink. At least, all of the Greek-Americans I know won’t.  And my local Greek restaurant recently quit carrying Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki (the only retsina they had), citing a total lack of demand from their customers. Quite a bold move, considering Retsina is routinely called the “iconic wine of Greece” and is ingrained in the food and drink culture of the nation.

And a reluctance which I don’t understand.  I’ve been enjoying Retsina for decades, although I will admit it’s in part because of Retsina’s origin story.   More on that in a moment.   The traditional grape for Retsina is Savatiano with Assyrtiko and Rhoditis sometimes blended in. Modern Retsina is made following the same winemaking techniques of white wine, with the exception of small pieces of Aleppo pine resin (!) being added to the must during fermentation. It is this pine resin that gives Retsina its name, as well as its unique flavor profile.  The resin exudes an oily film on the surface of the fermenting liquid;  after racking, the wine is clarified and the solids and surface film are removed.

Nowadays, much less resin is used than traditionally called for. Such wines lack the pungent “whiff of turpentine” of old.  Indeed, it seems to me the resin content goes down every year.  Frankly, I miss that resin punch, and even as producers seemingly try to make the wine more accessible, fewer people are willing to try it.  Even so, it is considered an ideal accompaniment to such flavorful Greek dishes as saganaki, pastırma or garlic dips, which are often consumed as appetizers.

But why add pine resin in the first place?  Isn’t this a gross adulteration, easily remedied?  In ancient Greece, long before the advent of the barrels and bottles we take for granted today, earthen wine jars and amphorae were sealed with pine resin to protect the contents from oxidation.  Some of this inevitably flavored the wine.  So much for the historical record.

But the legend is far more interesting.  It centers on the siege of Greece by the Romans in the second century B.C.  As the invaders plundered everything that came their way, the beleaguered Greeks were determined to deny them the wine.  “You will take our freedom . .  but you will not enjoy our wine!” they reportedly cried.  It was deliberately tainted with the now-famous pine resin, and in fact the Romans refused to drink it.  Once the war was over and the Greeks had prevailed, however, it was time to celebrate.  But, all of the available wine had been dosed with pine resin.  What to do?  Well, drink it anyway, of course, and acquire a centuries-long taste for it!

This Kourtaki Retsina of Attiki  is lemonade-yellow in the glass.  The nose features, predictably, a delicate and pleasant pine scent.  On the palate, this  recedes, allowing flavors of grapefruit and lemon to come through.  This crisp wine has a lively acidity, with just a hint of bitterness on the finish.

Enjoy (yes, enjoy!) this Retsina with dolmades, porgies with avgolemono sauce, or chicken souvlakia.

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Clos du Bois Wine

Clos du Bois
Over the River and Through the Woods

Although it sounds French, the Clos du Bois [klow doo bwa] winery is definitely American. Clos du Bois was founded in 1974 by Frank Woods, who planned on simply naming his new winery “Woods Vineyard.” His children, who were studying French at the time, suggested the more exotic “Clos du Bois” instead, which loosely translates to “enclosure in the woods.”

Clos du Bois is located in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, northwest of Napa Valley. I’ve long been a fan of wines from this AVA (American Viticultural Area); they’re always reliable, and when made with skill and care can be exceptional.

Clos du Bois’ estate vineyards (those vineyards owned by the winery) are influenced by the ocean winds and fog that moderate late afternoon temperatures in the growing season, as well as by the Russian River, which runs through the valley, and eons ago laid down the well-drained, gravelly soil types on which grapes thrive.

The winery’s initial releases included a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc were added in the ‘80s, followed by Zinfandel in the early ‘90s to round out the portfolio.

Today, Clos du Bois makes an extensive variety of wines in three distinct series. The Classic series is value-priced and widely available. The Sonoma Reserve series focuses on specific appellations within Sonoma County, revealing the special characteristics that makes each unique. The Proprietary series are limited quantity selections personally overseen by winemaker Erik Olsen. The following wines are from the Proprietary series.

Marlstone 2005

Named for the soil from which it comes, Marlstone stands as Sonoma County’s first Bordeaux-blend red wine. The initial vintage was 1978, and a consortium of California winemakers would go on to later designate this style of winemaking ‘meritage.’ (See the Wine Terms page.)

This smooth, balanced wine started in 100% French oak barrels for 18 months. It is rich, dark purple in appearance. The nose shows youthful blackcurrant fruit supported by cedar and tobacco. The flavor follows the aroma and offers chewy tannins, a nice extraction of fruit, and moderate oak.

Serve this wine with rich dishes such as chateaubriand with bernaise sauce, grilled lamb chops with garlic and rosemary, or prime rib of beef.

Calcaire 2007

Calcaire is French for chalky or limestone, reflecting this wine’s Russian River Valley terroir. (See the Wine Terms page.) The wine was barrel fermented in French oak and aged for eight months. In the glass, the color is medium gold with an unassuming nose. This Chardonnay exhibits flavors of lively citrus, baked apple, and lemon custard. The oak and minerality are present, but well integrated into the whole.

Pair this elegant wine with lobster in lemon butter, salmon souffle, or spaghetti with clams.

https://www.closdubois.com/

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Lot 25 Wine

Lot 25 Wine
Secret Agent, Man

Lot 205 is the undercover label of the well-regarded Cartlidge and Browne winery. Although they acknowledge their Rabid, Manzanita Canyon, and Stratford sub-brands, Lot 205 is their secret agent, for reasons known only to them (the price points of all of these labels are approximately the same).

The name is taken from C&B’s former street address in American Canyon at the southern end of Napa Valley. The fruit, however, is sourced from growers throughout California.

Winemaker Paul Moser leans toward the French style, with an emphasis on the correct expression of the grape variety; the predominance of fruit over oak; making the wines dry and food-friendly; keeping the alcohol levels in check; and offering good value in table wines meant for everyday consumption.

Lot 205 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This wine is primarily Paso Robles Cabernet (82%) and Merlot (12%). The taste is fruit-forward, with dominant cherry supported by tobacco and mocha notes. It has a medium body and color, and is well-balanced by smooth, restrained tannins.

Partner this cab with jerk-rubbed chicken thighs, balsamic-marinated flank steak, and grilled lamb chops.

Lot 205 Chardonnay 2006

Although present, oak is a supporting player in this chardonnay, letting the apple, citrus, and pineapple come to the fore. It’s a bit sweeter than I expected, with a hint of butterscotch.

http://www.cartlidgeandbrowne.com/index.html#top

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Pillar Box Red and Pillar Box White

Pillar Box Red and Pillar Box White
My Baby, She Wrote Me A Letter

And if my baby was Australian, she would have mailed it from a pillar box, which is what mail boxes are called Down Under as well as in England.

Pillar boxes lined the coach-driven mail routes, or ‘drives,’ established in the 1850s to provide mail service to the farmers and settlers then moving into southeastern South Australia. One such route in Padthaway was operated by Henry John Hill, and ran through property now owned by the third generation of the Longbottom family.

In 1992 Kim and Mark Longbottom decided to expand their farming operation into winemaking, and released their first offering in 1996. In a nod to the history of the mail route that once passed through the vineyards, today the family’s wine business is known as Henry’s Drive Vignerons.

The Padthaway region was once covered by the ocean. The receeding waters left behind a limestone subsoil topped by rich red loamy earth. This soil structure combines with good winter rains and mild sunny summers to make Padthaway well-suited for viticulture. The first vines were planted there in 1964, and it has come to be one of Australia’s premier wine-producing regions.

Pillar Box Red 2005

A blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 32% shiraz, and 11% merlot. The color is opaque purple, with a European-style flavor profile. The fruit is somewhat recessive, with nice astringency and enough tannin for structure. An excellent value, and 2005 is only the second vintage.

Pair this muscular wine with roasted or grilled beef or pork, blue cheese stuffed hamburgers, or a full-flavored, tomato sauced lasagna.

Pillar Box White 2006

A blend of 66% chardonnay, 20% sauvignon blanc, and 14% verdelho. The dominant taste is grapefruit, supported by lemon and citrus zest and racy, minerally acid. This makes for a tart, zippy, refreshing wine, ideal for this time of year. The color is pale straw yellow with a green tinge.

Try this wine with grilled or baked fish, a cheese course, shrimp on the barby (of course), or even tortilla chips and salsa.

This month’s wines are both sealed with screw caps. Screw caps have long been associated with low-quality wines. However, this has begun to change because of the perennial problem of “cork taint.” Cork taint is caused by complex chemical mechanisms triggered by the presence of microscopic fungi in the cork. Although not hazardous, cork taint does ruin the wine with a musty, wet cardboard smell and taste.

Screws caps are seen as a solution to this problem, and less tradition-bound Aussies are using them extensively on wines at every quality level. Commendable as that may be, I still prefer a cork, even if it is a well-made artificial one.

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Martin Miller’s Gin

Martin Miller’s Gin
Gin Mill

Martin Miller was an English multi-millionaire, entrepreneur, connoisseur, and self-described enthusiast of “leggy women, cigarettes, and gin.” The restless Miller built his fortune on guides to antiques, investing, and real estate ventures.

In 1999, he decided to expand into spirits. At the time, premium vodkas were being introduced at a prolific rate, while gin languished. Determined to rectify that, Miller introduced the eponymous Martin Miller’s Gin.

Miller’s is batch distilled, like malt whiskey, in a 100-year-old still named Angela. The recipe features the requisite juniper, plus lemon, lime, Seville orange peel, coriander, licorice, cinnamon, cassia, and nutmeg. After distillation, the cask-strength spirit is shipped to Iceland, where it is cut with water from the local glaciers.

The Miller’s Gin flavor profile is in the traditional English style. First comes the green pine of the juniper, quickly followed by the citrus component. The finish is smooth, with just a hint of the sweetness found in superior gins.

Miller’s is offered as an 80 proof bottling, as well as a 90.4 proof “Westbourne Strength.”

http://www.martinmillersgin.com/

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Vinturi V1010 Wine Aerator

Vinturi V1010 Wine AeratorWhen it comes to wine aeration, I am an agnostic. I rarely aerate these days, and when I do I usually use a decanter. For me, decanting and waiting an hour or two offers the best chance of improving a wine’s flavor and aroma.

But, there are many gadgets available for aerating a wine either by the glass or an entire bottle, and this Vinturi V1010 aerator is one that I have relied on for years. It is nicely designed, well built, and couldn’t be simpler to operate. Just hold it above your container, and pour the wine.

The one shortcoming my Vinturi has is that it did not come with a screen for filtering out sediment. I’m happy to note that the current model includes just such a filter. Vinturi does sell replacement filters in five packs now, as well.

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Jack Nicklaus Cabernet Sauvignon and Private Reserve White

Jack Nicklaus Wine
Golden Bear Meets the Golden State

Even among non-players, two names in golf are widely recognized: Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus, aka the Golden Bear. Nicklaus has been a wine collector for many years, but only recently decided to pursue the production of wines carrying his name, although he had been urged to do so for quite some time.

Since Nicklaus obviously knows a lot more about golf than making fine wine, after five years pondering and researching a possible wine project, he decided to partner with Terlato Wines International for support and assistance in his wine program. The Terlato family was a natural fit. Scion Bill Terlato is a member and former club champion at the Nicklaus-run Bear’s Club in Jupiter, Florida, and the Terlato empire includes extensive vineyard holdings in northern California. Nicklaus was particulary impressed by the Terlato-owned Chimney Rock and Rutherford Hill wineries in the heart of Napa Valley during an early visit as the joint venture was being established.

Nicklaus selected from barrel the wines for his signature label. They are crafted by the Terlato winemaking team, with day-to-day winemaking being handled by Marisa Taylor-Huffaker. The fruit is sourced primarily from vineyards in the famous Rutherford and Stags Leap District appellations of Napa.

 Private Reserve White 2011

This proprietary white blend is “based on sauvignon blanc,” with no further information available. It was barrel fermented, with a portion of the wine in French oak, and the balance fermented in stainless steel barriques.
It is pale gold, bordering on colorless. The nose features stone fruit, particularly peach, and green apple. The taste is surprisingly delicate, with a hint of grapefruit. The mouthfeel is nicely textured.

With only 541 cases made, distribution is limited, and, frankly, the price reflects exclusivity more than taste.

Pair this up with Clams Steamed in Sauvignon Blanc with Apples, Shallots, and Chervil, or Linguine with Halibut, Tomato-Basil Purée, Squash, and Garlic.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

This cabernet shows garnet in the glass, with a somewhat lighter density than one might expect. The nose features red fruit (i.e .cherry and raspberry), with hints of dark chocolate.

The taste follows through with suggestions of dark stone fruit, toasted spices, and cedar, although the fruit is rather recessive. The flavor is balanced by well-structured tannins which deliver a medium finish. If you normally prefer merlot, I suggest you give this medium-bodied cabernet sauvignon a try.

Serve this wine with Pizza with Pesto, Tomatoes, and Fresh Mozzarella, Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Merlot and Molasses, or Fried Chicken with Buttermilk and Cornmeal Crust.

http://www.jackshousefoundation.org/jack-nicklaus-cabernet-sauvignon

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Mossback Winery

Mossback Chardonnay and Pinot NoirThe Russian River AVA sits in the center of northern California’s Sonoma County, and is characterized by a generally cool climate, with sunny days bracketed by fog early and late. This encourages the slow-ripening of fruit, particularly suitable for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc, like these selections from Mossback Winery.

John Giguiere, with his wife Lane and brother Karl, started R.H. Phillips Winery in 1983 on land that was part of their family farm in the Dunnigan Hills of northwestern Yolo County, 30 miles east of the more-famous Napa. Over the course of 20 years, the Giguieres grew R.H. Phillips from a family winery of 10 acres and a few cases into a publicly-owned behemoth producing 900,000 cases of wine on 2500 acres, including the best-selling Toasted Head and EXP as well as R.H. Phillips.

When John and Lane left the company in 2005 to return to more-personalized winemaking, they were joined by Dan Cederquiest to found Crew Wine Company, which produces a variety of wines, including Matchbook.

Mossback is an old-fashioned term for “farmer,” and is an homage from the Crew trio to the farmers on which they rely to supply the fruit for their Russian River offerings.

Mossback Russian River Valley Chardonnay2009

The impression of this wine is as understated as its pale yellow color would suggest. Made in the style of a French Chablis, the wine is 80% cold fermented in stainless steel to retain acidity and as much of the character of the fruit as possible.

The delicate nose presents citrus notes, and the taste features green apples, baked honey, and a hint of melon. 1,093 cases were bottled of this 100% Chardonnay.

This food-friendly wine would pair nicely with Grilled Scallops Wrapped in Proscuitto, Grilled Salmon Burgers, or Hoisin Honey-Glazed Chicken.

Mossback Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2009

This elegant Pinot Noir is 97% Pinot Noir with 3% Syrah added for additional structure. The fruit was sourced from three well-regarded Russian River Valley vineyards. After fermentation, the juice was aged in French oak for nine months.

In the glass, the color is a pleasing cherry red. There is almost no nose, but don’t be discouraged by that. On the palate, the fruit displays plenty of tart cherry and strawberry, supported by a bit of cream and vanilla. There is a medium finish, with no bitterness or aftertaste.

Enjoy this Pinot with Grilled Turkey Burgers with Yogurt-Cucumber Sauce, Salmon Fillets with Sesame Crust, or Vegetarian Shish Kabobs.

https://www.matchbookwines.com/

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Truchard Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 and Pinot Noir 2007

Truchard VineyardsTruchard Vineyards was established in 1974, when native Texans Tony and Jo Ann Truchard purchased a 20-acre parcel of land in Carneros. They transformed what was an abandoned prune orchard into a vineyard, and began selling the fruit to a local winery. Because of the difficult clay soil he had to work with, as well as a dearth of groundwater, Truchard was one of the early adapters of drip irrigation, a practice that was used in Israel for desert farming but not known in California yet. The Truchard Estate Vineyard has since grown to 400 acres, of which 280 are planted.

In 1989, the Truchards began making wine for themselves (even as Tony continued his practice as a physician), using only their estate-grown fruit. Today the winery makes 12 different wines, producing a total of 16,000 cases per year. The Truchard’s remain active at the winery even now, along with able assistance from their son, Anthony Truchard II who serves as General Manager. Their winemaker (and Milwaukee native) is Sal De Ianni. Originally a chemist, De Ianni was sufficiently drawn to wine that he took his M.S. in Enology at UC Davis. In 1998, he responded to a help wanted ad posted by the Truchards, and has been with the winery ever since.

As the most Northeastern vineyard in the Carneros region, Truchard is situated on the foothills of what becomes the Mayacama mountain range and Mount Veeder. The Truchard Estate contains a variety of soils: clay, shale, sandstone, volcanic rock and ash, and enjoys marine-moderated temperatures.

Truchard Chardonnay 2008

A light-yellow colored Chardonnay that starts with pear, citrus, and a hint of sweet banana. The palate is full bodied, with its acidity balanced by flavors of tart green apple, lime, and very light oak. The finish is dry, with suggestions of lemon pith and spice.

Try this Chard with Roasted Trout, Squid with Spinach, or Shrimp with Canellini Beans.

Truchard Pinot Noir 2007

This lean, Old World-style Pinot Noir opens with a bouquet of plum, red berry, and tea. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied and balanced, starting with a bit of sweet vanilla and moving on to spicy oak, cranberry, leather, and tobacco. The finish is dry, with delicate tannins and a hint of bitterness.

People who don’t like “fruit bombs” will enjoy this wine. This Pinot should pair well with Fried Veal Cutlets in Tomato Sauce, Peppery Beef Stew, and Meatloaf.

https://www.truchardvineyards.com/

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Bink Wines

Bink WinesCalifornia Girls

The unusually-named Bink Wines is owned and operated by two women, which is also rather unusual (but becoming less so).

Fourth-generation-Californian Cindy Paulson grows the grapes, while also maintaining her day job as an environmental engineer (she earned a doctorate in environmental engineering at Colorado University at Boulder). Her farming philosophy is deeply rooted in sustainable practices, coming from her environmental background and love of the outdoors.

Deb Schatzlein makes the wines. This Connecticut native is known as a fun-loving free spirit; her grandparents set the mold early, making gin in their bathtub during Prohibition. She has degrees in chemistry (with an early career as a chemical engineer) and biology, and has taken extensive coursework in viticulture and enology.

And that name? It’s a contraction of ‘black ink,’ the color characteristic of their red wines.

Bink Randle Hill Vineyard Sauvingon Blanc 2008

This all-stainless-steel 100% Sauvignon Blanc is unfiltered. Consequently, this pale-yellow wine can pour out cloudy, without the crystal-clear appearance most consumers expect. To avoid this, let the bottle rest upright for an hour or so, and decant carefully. Or, if you insist on transparency, you could pour it through a paper coffee filter; unorthodox, and it may strip out some of the flavor nuance, but it works.

This wine’s birthplace, the 13-acre Randle Hill Vineyard, is certified organic, and yielded a small production of 350 cases.

The wine opens with delicately sweet honeysuckle and mango flavors, which then lead to a body featuring grapefruit notes and a supportive minerality.

Serve with Red Chile-Honey Glazed Salmon, BBQ Marlin with Avocado Vinaigrette, or Rum-Brown Sugar-Glazed Shrimp with Lime and Cilantro.

Bink Hawks Butte Merlot 2006

The Hawks Butte vineyard is part of the Yorkville Highlands Appellation, and is located mid-way between the small California towns of Yorkville and Boonville. It is 1200 feet above sea level and 35 miles inland from the Pacific coast. The rocky soils and southern exposure of the vineyard make for high-quality but low-yield vines, providing only enough juice to make 150 cases of this wine.

It was aged for 22 months in 30%-new and 70%-old oak barrels.
As is to be expected of Bink, the color is deep garnet in the glass. The nicely full palate features black currant and stone fruits, supported by somewhat forward tannins and some spice. This Merlot is an excellent value.

Enjoy this substantial wine with Balsamic-Marinated Flank Steak, Asian-Spice Rubbed Pork Chops, or Burgers with Cheddar Cheese and Horseradish Mustard.

Bink Wine closed permanently in 2017.

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