Category: Red Blend

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Acquaviva Winery

Acquaviva WineryA Vino You Can’t Refuse

Although the address is officially in Maple Park, Illinois, Acquaviva Winery and Bistro is on a very rural stretch of Illinois Route 38, 60 miles due west of Chicago. The faux-Italianate building incongruously appears, mirage-like, as you approach.

As a child, owner Vito Brandonisio would visit his grandfather’s small vineyard in Acquaviva delle Fonti in Bari, Italy. The lessons and memories formed there carried through to adulthood as he became an amateur winemaker.

In 2002, Brandonisio fulfilled a lifelong dream of having his own wine estate when he purchased 40 acres in Maple Park, naming it Acquaviva in honor of his homeland and his grandfather. Determined to produce his wines from indigenous local grapes, here he planted such hardy Midwest varietals as Prairie Star, Brianna, Chardonel, Marechal Fosh, and Frontenac, types largely unknown even to seasoned wine connoisseurs.

By 2007, it was time to build a winery to make use of the maturing grape vines. This 20,000 square foot facility is to the north across Route 38 from the estate acreage, and in addition to the winery itself (housed on the basement level), it includes a tasting room, the bistro, a retail market, and private party facilities. Tours are available by reservation; a fee of $10 to $30 is charged, depending on tour selected.

Acquaviva encapsulates the American experience. Brandonisio is Italian, of course, his grapes are American, and his current winemaker, Sergio Benavides, is Chilean.

Brianna 2011

Personally, I’m not a fan of sweet wines with the dinner entrée. However, I realize many others don’t share my position (white zinfandel, anyone?). This Brianna is almost completely colorless in the glass. The nose features scents of peach and honeysuckle. It is indeed sweet, with flavors of pineapple, peach, and a hint of apricots.

Although not a true dessert wine, Brianna can convincingly fill in as one. This would pair nicely with Sweet Pastry Fritters, Almond Cake, or Mixed Berry Pizza.

Don Giuseppe 2010

This red blend is made entirely of Illinois grapes, although the varieties are not specified. It is surprisingly grapey on the nose, but fear not, this is no Concord.

This wine was barrel-aged for twelve months. The color is dense purple, and it has good legs. On the palate, it is quite approachable and well-balanced, with understated tannins that add just enough structure. The dominant flavors are dark berries, cedar, and a hint of black pepper, not unlike a Zinfandel, although there is none in the blend.

For dinner, go classsic with Spaghetti and Meatballs, Chicken Cacciatora, or try Braised Pork Chops with Tomatoes, Cream, and Porcini Mushrooms.

https://acquavivawinery.com/

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Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range WineryWines from the Wasteland

Although wine production started in New Zealand as early as 1819, that nation of beer drinkers didn’t really start to get serious about it until the mid 1960s, time-wise much like California. Real success didn’t come until the early ‘80s, however, with the varietal New Zealand has become famous for, sauvignon blanc. The first release to get wide attention was the 1979 from Montana Wines (New Zealand’s biggest wine maker) and an even more compelling product followed from Cloudy Bay Vineyards in 1985, finally putting “the land of the long white cloud” on the world’s wine-making map.

In 1876 the Ngaruroro River in the Hawkes Bay region severely flooded and changed course, leaving behind a large new tract of gravelly soil. At first, the plan was to turn this infertile ‘wasteland’ into a quarry. Before that project got underway, however, local winemakers claimed the land as their own and began planting vines.

Terry Peabody and Steve Smith established Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay in 1997, recognizing the area’s potential to deliver first-rate wines. Their goal was to make single-vineyard wines – wines that are true expressions of the vineyard’s terroir.

Peabody handles the ‘front office’ at Craggy Range, while Smith is the senior winemaker and certified Master of Wine. Decanter magazine and Wine and Spirits magazine have named him as one of the fifty most influential people in the world of wine.

Chardonnay 2008

Kidnappers Vineyard is located on the Hawkes Bay coastline at Te Awanga where the climate is warm and sunny and the soil is predominantly clay loam.
This wine introduces itself with a very pale straw color and lemony nose. The citrus notes continue on the palate, abetted by tastes of mineral and oyster shell. The finish suggests clove and grapefruit.

This wine would pair well with Grilled Scallops with Raspberry-Thyme Beurre Blanc, Lemon-Basil Basated Shrimp, and Mixed Grill of Summer Vegetables.

Te Kahu Proprietary Red 2006

Te Kahu means The Cloak in the native Maori language. Legend has it that the mists rolling down the valley are the cloak of a beautiful maiden laying at the feet of her lover, the fallen giant Te Mafa.

This lean, restrained wine is a classic Bordeaux blend of 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec, and is very much in the European style. The bouquet offers notes of dark plum, blueberry, cedar, and a hint of oak. The palate adds elements of earth and dusty cocoa powder supported by moderate tannins. The finish is relatively short.

Let this wine breathe for at least two hours, then serve with Paprika Chicken or Braised Lamb Shanks with White Beans.

https://www.craggyrange.com/

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Ernie Els Big Easy Wines

Ernie Els Big Easy Wines
An Ernest Effort from Els

Welcome to another installment in my series on golfers’ wine projects.  This time the focus is on Theodore Ernest “Ernie” Els, known as “The Big Easy” due to his imposing physical stature along with his fluid, seemingly effortless golf swing.

Els launched his winery in 1999 in Stellenbosch, South Africa [predictably, since he’s a native]. With award-winning winemaker Louis Strydom at the helm, they produced the maiden 2000 vintage of Ernie Els, a ‘classic’ Bordeaux blend. This impressive facility is now home to eight different Els selections.

Wines of varying quality have been made in South Africa for over 350 years. Stellenbosch, in the country’s southwestern Coastal Region, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded growing districts. It is similar to a Mediterranean climate, with an average rainfall of around 25 inches per year. The soils largely consist of clay, with the deeper soils having a considerable amount of granite, just the sort of difficult land that quality grape vines prefer. The majority of the vineyards at Ernie Els Wines are north-facing, with the rows running in an east-west direction, resulting in the optimal utilization of sunlight. In summer, the vineyards’ close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides cool sea breezes that moderate temperatures, extending the ripening period.

 Big Easy White 2011

Yes, Els rather cheekily labeled these wines after his nickname. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc, with no oak aging whatsoever. The wine is pale gold, and the nose is delicately perfumed. The prominent flavor is grapefruit, with a hint of almond and spice. There is plenty of acid, complementing the grapefruit flavor profile, with the finish featuring some of grapefruit’s bitterness, as well.

Match this wine with New Orleans-style Barbecued Shrimp, Chicken Clemençeau, or Cheese Soufflé.

https://ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-chenin-blanc/

Big Easy Red 2010

This red blend is 60% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Mouvedre, Grenache, Cinsaut, and Viognier (with the exception of the Cab, this is a typical Bordeaux blend). It is dark purple in the glass, with a rather boozy nose. It was barrel aged for 12 months in 80% French and 20% American oak.
The palate is dense and full bodied, with plenty of tannins. Earthy flavors of black cherries, coffee, and chocolate predominate, and are smoothly integrated. A hint of cocoa on the finish delivers a slight bitterness that is less welcome than it is in the Big Easy White.

Serve this red with Steak and Truffled Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Chicken wth Watermelon Relish, or Garlic Pork Roast.

https://ernieels.com/wines/wine-portfolio/big-easy-by-ernie-els-red-blend/

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Deerfield Ranch Winery

deerfield ranch winery
Between a Rock and a
Wet Place

Sonoma County is situated between Napa County to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Sonoma has over 175 wineries, second only to the somewhat more famous Napa in number of U. S. wineries.

The Sonoma Valley AVA [American Viticultural Area] is in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, and is home to Deerfield Ranch Winery. This boutique winery is owned and operated by the affable and effusive Robert Rex. He makes the wine, and his wife PJ manages the business side. Many wineries today tout themselves as “small, family-run,” but this one truly is.

Deerfield Ranch is a certified organic producer, even now still one of the few in Sonoma County, with an annual output of about 15,000 cases.

Trained as a chemist, in 1972 Robert was given a winemaking kit by then-girlfriend PJ in appreciation for keeping her finicky Alfa Romeo running. That first Zinfandel won Best of Show at the California State Fair, and Robert soon left the chemistry lab in favor of the wine cave.

Robert is an enthusiastic proponent of the art of blending wines, and says, “Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients. By drawing from 26 vineyards we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, and use the most gentle production techniques. We make wine by hand in small lots; the wines are clean, have very low histamine and sulfite levels, so that they produce no headaches or allergic reactions.”

Los Chamizal Chardonnay 2009

This pale-gold elixer opens with delicate aromas of honey and apricot. The French white oak in which it was barreled for 10 months is present in the taste, but plays a subtle supporting role to the balanced acidity and flavors of green apple, fresh mint, and grapefruit.

Try this wine with Sauteed Black Sea Bass with Red Peppers, Grilled Herbed Salmon with Shrimp, or Chicken Burgers with Chive Sauce.

Red Rex 2006

Showcasing Robert Rex’s ideas about blending, Red Rex is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The ratio is on the bottle, but you’re unlikely to get the same results if you try the recipe at home!

After harvest, the wine was barrel aged for 36 months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Red Rex is nearly opaque without being cloudy, with a nose of dark cherries, berries, and spice box. On the palate, the wine tends toward a leaner French style; there is a medium-weight feel, with flavors of the same cherries and berries, complemented by black pepper and minerals, then ending in a medium finish.

This is Deerfield’s most popular wine; enjoy it with Boeuf Bourguignon, Hamburger au Poivre with Red-Wine Sauce, or Pork Chops Milanese.

https://www.deerfieldranch.com/home.html

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Clos du Bois Wine

Clos du Bois
Over the River and Through the Woods

Although it sounds French, the Clos du Bois [klow doo bwa] winery is definitely American. Clos du Bois was founded in 1974 by Frank Woods, who planned on simply naming his new winery “Woods Vineyard.” His children, who were studying French at the time, suggested the more exotic “Clos du Bois” instead, which loosely translates to “enclosure in the woods.”

Clos du Bois is located in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, northwest of Napa Valley. I’ve long been a fan of wines from this AVA (American Viticultural Area); they’re always reliable, and when made with skill and care can be exceptional.

Clos du Bois’ estate vineyards (those vineyards owned by the winery) are influenced by the ocean winds and fog that moderate late afternoon temperatures in the growing season, as well as by the Russian River, which runs through the valley, and eons ago laid down the well-drained, gravelly soil types on which grapes thrive.

The winery’s initial releases included a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc were added in the ‘80s, followed by Zinfandel in the early ‘90s to round out the portfolio.

Today, Clos du Bois makes an extensive variety of wines in three distinct series. The Classic series is value-priced and widely available. The Sonoma Reserve series focuses on specific appellations within Sonoma County, revealing the special characteristics that makes each unique. The Proprietary series are limited quantity selections personally overseen by winemaker Erik Olsen. The following wines are from the Proprietary series.

Marlstone 2005

Named for the soil from which it comes, Marlstone stands as Sonoma County’s first Bordeaux-blend red wine. The initial vintage was 1978, and a consortium of California winemakers would go on to later designate this style of winemaking ‘meritage.’ (See the Wine Terms page.)

This smooth, balanced wine started in 100% French oak barrels for 18 months. It is rich, dark purple in appearance. The nose shows youthful blackcurrant fruit supported by cedar and tobacco. The flavor follows the aroma and offers chewy tannins, a nice extraction of fruit, and moderate oak.

Serve this wine with rich dishes such as chateaubriand with bernaise sauce, grilled lamb chops with garlic and rosemary, or prime rib of beef.

Calcaire 2007

Calcaire is French for chalky or limestone, reflecting this wine’s Russian River Valley terroir. (See the Wine Terms page.) The wine was barrel fermented in French oak and aged for eight months. In the glass, the color is medium gold with an unassuming nose. This Chardonnay exhibits flavors of lively citrus, baked apple, and lemon custard. The oak and minerality are present, but well integrated into the whole.

Pair this elegant wine with lobster in lemon butter, salmon souffle, or spaghetti with clams.

https://www.closdubois.com/

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Exitus Red Wine

Exitus Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine
And Now for Something Completely Different

The Exitus winery is located in Parlier, California, about 20 miles southeast of Fresno. I don’t know how badass the people of Parlier are, but it’s certainly the image that Exitus is trying to cultivate. Their one current offering is Exitus Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine. It is fermented in the usual stainless steel. But, rather than using traditional barrels expressly made for wine, Exitus is matured for three months in charred barrels that were previously used for the production of Kentucky Bourbon. The schtick is supported by distributing the wine in clear liquor bottles.

Exitus is a blend of Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Merlot, sporting a robust 15.9% ABV. The wine displays a dark but bright cherry color in the glass (as well as the bottle). The alcohol is evident on the nose of the first pour, but gives way to aromas of dark berry, leather, and tobacco thereafter. After about an hour, Exitus becomes surprisingly well-behaved, with flavors of ripe dark stone fruit, dusty chocolate, and spices. Things wrap up with a bit of oak, vanilla, and balanced tannin. Interestingly, Exitus had me thinking about a glass of port for after dinner.

Try this wine with sweet and sour baby back ribs, thyme-scented pork loin with grapes and port, or sloppy joe burgers.  But do it soon.  As clever as that clear bottle is, the wine won’t age gracefully in it.

https://www.exituswines.com/

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Maison M. Chapoutier

Maison M. ChapoutierThe Rhone Ranger

Thanksgiving is next week, and these two wines would be very appropriate for the holiday feast (Christmas and Hanukkah, too!)

Maison M. Chapoutier is a winery and négociant business located in Tain-l’Hermitage in the Rhône region in southeastern France. (Négociant is the French term for a wine merchant who assembles the produce of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result under its own name.) Chapoutier produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, in a wide spectrum of varietals, styles, and price points. The house has holdings in Portugal and Australia, as well.

Polydor Chapoutier established the business in 1879, and it has remained family-owned ever since. Yet despite its long history, by the late 1970s the winery was languishing, the wines weren’t selling, and the firm was in danger of bankruptcy.

In 1990, at age 26, Michel Chapoutier took control, after studying oenology in both France and California. In the intervening years he has transformed the winery into one of the leading Rhône Valley producers. He combines the traditional and the modern, being an early advocate of organic and biodynamic winemaking. He pruned back the vineyards and boldly reduced yields from 2.6 tons per acre to 1.8 tons per acre for both red and white wines. Industrial chemicals, fertilizers, and sprays were eliminated. Grapes are now harvested by hand and only natural yeasts are used to produce unfiltered wines.

Critic Robert Parker has called Chapoutier “one of the most influential wine personalities of the last 20 years.”

Chapoutier’s wine labels are distinctive because of their inclusion of Braille writing on all labels since 1996. The information presented in Braille includes the producer, the vintage, the vineyard, the region, and the color of the wine.

Belleruche Rosé 2012

This wine is a fruit-forward blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, with a brilliant copper-salmon color. The nose is predominantly aromas of strawberries. On the palette, expect hints of cream soda and grapefruit (yeah, it does work). There is plenty of zippy acidity, as well.

Give this wine a try with a Tomato and Onion Tart, Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.

Belleruche Rouge 2011

Like most European wines, this lean, fruit-recessive selection is ‘food’ wine, made to drink at the dinner table, not with a pre-meal chat.

Belleruche Rouge is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, and was fermented and aged in vats. It is dark garnet red in the glass, with a subtle nose where no dominant aroma jumps out. The palette has an earthy quality, and features tastes of Morello cherries and black tea. The tannins offer plenty of support, but the finish is rather short.

Enjoy this wine with Wild Mushroom Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts, Beef Stew with Turnips, or Cassoulet.

https://www.chapoutier.com/en/

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