Category: Review

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Imagery Estate Winery

In 1973, newlyweds Mike and Mary Benziger drove west and permanently settled in Northern California. Seven years later, Mike and and his brother Bruno Benziger purchased the historic Wegener Ranch on Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen, California. Hearing the Sirens’ call of the Golden State, over the next six years the four remaining siblings — Bob, Joe, Jerry, and Patsy, with their spouses — made their way to California.

In 1986, winemaker Joe Benziger first partnered with artist Bob Nugent to launch the Imagery Series of wines. This pairing of wine and art continues to this day, and permeates every aspect of Imagery Winery, including unique artwork replicated on every label. (Except for the wines shown here.  More on that below.) The dedicated on-site art gallery features label artwork commissioned from some of the world’s most notable contemporary artists, and includes over 500 works by over 300 artists. Currently, around 60 pieces are on view in the gallery.

At any given time, as many as 35 artists are working on pieces that will appear on future Imagery wine labels. The artists are not limited by size, medium, or content.

Joe Benziger has dedicated his career to crafting rare wines from uncommon varietals such as Malbec, Tempranillo, and Lagrein. These limited-production wines are available to wine club members only.

However, that doesn’t mean Imagery is inaccessible. Following in her father Joe’s footsteps, middle-daughter Jamie Benziger is the winemaker in charge of Imagery’s relatively new and more popularly-priced collection of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. The label is characterized with a “drip” motif, suggestive of both wine and paint.

Imagery Sauvignon Blanc 2019

This is quite pale yellow in the glass.  It presents initial aromas of citrus, lemon zest, and honeysuckle. It . It greets the palate with those flavors and adds a nice dose of cantaloupe and a bit of apricot.  There is none of the grassiness  or cat pee that often characterize (or even mar) this varietal.  Good acidity balances a surprisingly full mouthfeel.  A hint of dry Muscat lends refinement and softness.  The finish is bright and fresh, but short.

This wine would work well with Stir Fry Pork Cubes with Mushrooms and Corn, Sea Scallops Marinated in Citronette (a lemon and oil vinaigrette), or Indonesian-style Grilled Pompano.

Imagery Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

This Cab starts out with a nose of plums, prunes, and  vanilla. Then come the flavors of blackberries and tart cherries, and cocoa.  The wine is dry, but there is some of bing cherry sweetness.  The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petite Sirah, the latter lending a hint of spice and pepper. The wine is fruit forward and velvety soft, with moderate tannins and medium acidity.

Serve this easy-going red with Pancetta-wrapped Sausages, Finger-lickin’ Ribs, or Saffron Roast Lamb with StickyGarlic Potatoes.

www.imagerywinery.com/

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Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Heitz CellersIn my over forty years of drinking wine, I’ve had excellent bottles, bottles I’ve poured down the drain after drinking half a glass, and, mostly, everything in between.  But over all of those years and thousands of wines, two have eluded me, my so-called “unicorn” wines.

I first learned of the Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in the mid-’70s when a normally generous acquaintance was showing off an unopened bottle, with obviously no intention of sharing.  Martha’s Vineyard was selling for about $30 at release then, far more than I could afford, so I wasn’t going to be enjoying it any time soon.  But the desire was established.

On a winery tour through Napa valley in the mid-1990s, I stopped at Heitz’s “tasting room,” at least on that visit  literally a windowless construction trailer parked by the side of the road.  I was about halfway through the tasting when I heard a car grind to a halt outside on the gravel.  The door burst open, and the driver demanded, “I want to try the Martha’s Vineyard!”  The bartender calmly responded, “We don’t pour the Martha’s Vineyard here.”  (A fact I, sadly, already knew.)  The door slammed shut, and he was off.  Denied.

Many of the wines here on Winervana are graciously supplied by producers in exchange for the review (although I am always free to write what I want without constraint).   But, sometimes I buy the wine myself, which was the case here.  Martha’s Vineyard is now selling for $250 on release, and, really, I still can’t afford it.  And it is certainly not a “wine for the casual wine drinker.”  But during these uncertain times, I thought, “What the hell.  I may never get a chance to drink this wine I’ve been lusting after for so long.” So here it is.

Born in Princeton, Illinois, Joe Heitz served in the Army Air Force during World War II, and moonlighted during off hours at a winery near Fresno.  After the war ended, Heitz began taking classes at UC Davis, achieving a bachelor’s and then a master’s degree in viticulture and enology in 1951. in the first graduating class of just seven people.  Heitz found employment at two wine industry extremes, first at Gallo, and then with the famous André Tchelistcheff at Beaulieu Vineyard as an assistant winemaker, where he worked for nearly ten years.

Heitz Cellar was established in 1961, when, after serving his “apprenticeship,” in 1961 Heitz and his wife Alice bought a small 8.5 acre (3.4 ha) vineyard from Leon Brendel in St. Helena, California, named “The One & Only,” for $5,000, and went into business for himself.  At the time, there were only about two dozen Napa Valley wineries, the lowest number since Prohibition.  (Today there are over 1,700 registered wineries in Napa, but “only” about 500 have tasting rooms.)  This pioneering winery even preceeded Robert Mondavi‘s 1966 start in nearby Oakville.

Photo: Jeremy Baines

In 1963, Heitz bought several barrels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Hanzell Vineyards in Sonoma, the last vintages of James D. Zellerbach’s pursuit of Burgundian excellence and auctioned off by his widow. Heitz blended and sold the wines to lucrative acclaim.

One of his stated strategies for ongoing success was to pay growers, “what their grapes were worth,” in turn increasing the standard of the product he was receiving. In 1964, Heitz acquired an 1898 stone winery with its 160 acre (65 ha) ranch property, which became the Heitz winery and home.

Photo: Darcy K.

Since 1965, Heitz has held an exclusive agreement with Tom and Martha May, owners of the 34 acre (14 ha) Martha’s Vineyard in the Oakville AVA.  He immediately recognized the quality of the grapes, and the very next year Heitz vinified the fruit separately from his other production, and designated the vineyard on the label.  (Rather subtly, though.  Many of Heitz’s red-wine labels, unchanged for decades, look almost identical.  “Martha’s Vineyard” only appears in a small oval in the lower left corner.)

Martha's Vineyard

Martha’s Vineyard

“Standing in Martha’s Vineyard, you quickly realize why this site consistently produces a remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard receives gentle morning and early afternoon sunlight and is sheltered from the heat of the late afternoon sun by the mountains. This allows for longer hang time and Martha’s Vineyard is, historically, one of the last vineyards we pick. This ability to leave the fruit on the vine longer than other sites allows for concentration of flavor and softening of tannin to produce a wine so pure in its expression of place. The consistency in showcasing Martha’s Vineyard’s unique mint, bay leaf, dark berry and chocolate notes year after year is a reminder of why this vineyard has commanded a faithful following since the 1966 vintage.”
–Brittany Sherwood, Winemaker

Heitz is considered the first to champion the single vineyard designation in the U.S.  The 1968 vintage received attention for its quality, widely considered the greatest wine made in America up to that time. It was fermented in 1,000-US-gallon (38 hL) American oak vats, and then transferred to Limousin oak barrels where it aged for an additional two years.  Frank J. Prial, the wine columnist for The New York Times from 1972 until 2004, contended the wine remained “the benchmark by which California Cabernets were judged” for more than two decades.  (The 1970 vintage placed seventh at the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, also known as the Judgment of Paris.)

Following a review by Robert Parker where he wrote that Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “lacked aroma, ” Heitz sent Parker a box of linen handkerchiefs, insinuating to the critic that he ought to clear his nose.

Joe Heitz suffered a stroke in 1996 which left him frail though lucid.  He died on December 16, 2000, aged 81. He was described by Warren Winiarski, founder and former proprietor of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, as the first of the Napa Valley artisans and the first to grasp the single vineyard concept.

David Heitz succeeded his father as winemaker in the late 1970s, having worked at the estate for many years. In 1984, the estate purchased the Trailside Vineyard in Rutherford, having previously purchased fruit from the site, and introduced a single vineyard bottling in 1989.

In the early ’90s, phylloxera afflicted Martha’s Vineyard, and no vintages were made in the mid-1990s.

Heitz Cellar annually produces approximately 40,000 cases (3,600 hL) of wine.  The estate’s vines are grown certified CCOF organic, with a move towards biodynamic farming planned eventually.  In addition to several vineyard-designated Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings that are often aged in oak for three and half years, Heitz also produces varietal-labeled wines from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Grignolino.  (This is a rare variety in California, but was  the dominant planting of the original estate vineyard.  Heitz is still considered the premier producer.)

In April, 2018, Heitz Cellar was sold to Gaylon Lawrence Jr., whose Arkansas-based family owns one of the country’s largest agricultural businesses.

Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This aged wine spent three years in 100% new French oak, one in neutral oak, and an additional year in bottle.  It is medium ruby to purple in the glass.  While I disagree that it “lacks aroma,” the nose is subtle, and predominantly of cherries.  It is incredibly smooth on the palate, with flavors of classic black currant, cocoa, tart cherry, and a hint of dust.  The tannins and acid are in perfect balance, and it al ends in a medium-long finish.  One thing I didn’t get: Heitz Martha’s Vineyard is famous for a minty overlay, especially when it’s this young.  While I wouldn’t find that a problem, I just wasn’t tasting it.  Regardless, Joe Heitz went to great pains to consistently deny that the minty notes had anything to do with the eucalyptus tress planted on the edge of the vineyard.

So, was the forty-five year wait worth it?  Well … yes … but.  This is an excellent wine, worthy of its iconic status.  But for me, it was simply too elegant, especially for the price.  At this stratosphere, I’m looking for something more boisterous,  like a Louis Martini Monte Rosso, a Palmaz, or a Kathryn Hall.

And the other wine of my fantasy?  That would be Penfold’s Grange, the legendary Australian Shiraz.  That one is selling for about $850 on release these days, so it may elude me forever.

https://www.heitzcellar.com/#1961

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Justin Cabernet Sauvignon

Justin Cabernet SauvignonJustin Baldwin founded his eponymous winery in Paso Robles, California, in 1981 on 160 acres.  His vision was to make world-class Bordeaux-style blends.   Befitting such ambition, The winery is invested in the French idea of terroir, that a wine must reflect its place, especially soil and climate.

Justin’s soil is largely fossilized limestone from eons of marine deposit. The limestone stresses the vines, producing grapes that, ideally, completely express their varietal character.

Paso Robles’ distinctive microclimate offers the widest day to night temperature swings of any grape-growing region in California. The hot days allow the grapes to develop intense flavor, while the cool nights create structure and balance.

Justin combines traditional Old World methods—like hand-harvesting and small-barrel aging in French oak—with New World technology.

Justin’s offerings include Bordeaux-style blends, of course, and other red blends.  These are joined by single varietal (or nearly so) Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Viognier.   At the top of the range is the famous Isosceles, their flagship wine (and a registered trademark).  Reflecting Isosceles’ prominence, much of Justin’s branding, marketing, and naming play off the right-angle triangle theme.

The Founder’s Vineyard

In addition to the Founder’s Vineyard, Justin also farms the Adelaida Road Vineyard, one of the highest in the Paso Robles AVA; the Creston Road Vineyard, located in the Templeton Gap that enjoys cooling breezes from the Pacific; and the steeply-sloped DeBro Vineyard that sits on a variety of soil types.

There is also an inn and restaurant on the property.

Billionaire Stewart Resnick bought Justin Vineyards and Winery in late 2010.  Resnick also controls Fiji Water, Pom Wonderful, and Teleflora.  Resnick also owns the Sonoma County wineries Landmark and Hop Kiln.

Justin Baldwin is still casually involved with the winery, but the winemaking falls to Napa Valley veteran Scott Shirley, who has maintained and even expanded Justin’s quality and reputation.  Justin was named the 2015 American Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Justin Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is purple-ruby in the glass.  It features aromas of ripe black and red cherry.  Flavors of black currant abound on the palate, with cocoa and a hint of dust.  The wine is full-bodied and dry, with a moderately long finish. There is a mild acidity and balanced tannins. It was barrel aged for 13 months in American oak (25% new) and has an ABV of 14.5%.

Enjoy this wine with Spencer Steaks with Red-wine Shiitake Sauce, Pork Chops in Balsamic Cherry Sauce, or East-West Barbecued Chicken.

Justin Wine

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Boondocks American Whiskey

By Spirits Contributor Neal KotlarekBoondocks American Whiskey

Crafted in close cooperation with Dave Scheurich, one of the world’s most respected master distillers and winner of the Whisky Advocate Lifetime Achievement Award, Boondocks American Whiskey Cask Strength 127 has an ultra-smooth finish, with distinctive aromas of rich caramel and vanilla. A robust and pleasantly aggressive palate is highlighted by fall spices and oak. This expression received a Gold Medal/91 points in the Los Angeles International Spirits Competition 2016 and Best of Category in the Ultimate Spirits Challenge 2016

Boondockswhiskey.com

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Old World Wine vs New World Wine

Photo: Apartment Therapy

Is there a difference between wines that come from the Old World and those that come from the New World?  And does it matter?

First, yes, there can be distinct differences.  Although broad generalizations, these often apply:

 

 

OLD WORLD

 

NEW WORLD

 

Location

 

Europe and the Middle East

 

Everywhere else, but especially North and South America.

 

 

Grapes

 

Emphasis on vitis vinifera, the classic “noble” varieties.

 

Much more open to non-traditional varieties.

 

 

Climate

 

Cooler, leading to leaner flavors and tannins

 

Warmer, leading to fuller fruit and rounder tannins

 

 

Guiding Principles

 

Terroir (the sense of place of a wine’s origins,including climate and soil).

 

Grape varieties and the skill of the individual winemaker

 

 

Flavor Profiles

 

Earthiness, minerality, leaner tannins

 

More new French and American oak, and greater fruit extraction

 

 

Aroma

 

Tighter, less aromatic, the wine often benefits from decanting

 

 

 

Fuller aromas which will sometimes benefit from decanting, but it’s not always needed

 

 

History

 

More tied to the history and traditions of the wine.  The production itself is more highly and specifically regulated.

 

 

More modern and innovative, but the wines can be more
industrial as well. 

 

 

Alcohol

 

Less natural sugar content, which means lower final alcohol by volume, usually 12% or so

 

A higher natural sugar content from riper fruit, resulting in an ABV of 14 to 16%

 

 

General Characteristics

 

Elegant, restrained, lean, needs to be paired with food to maximize enjoyment

 

 

Opulent, lush, fruit-forward, can often be enjoyed on its own

 

Cost

 

Cheap to expensive

 

Cheap to expensive

 

Quality

 

Mediocre to extraordinary

 

Mediocre to extraordinary

 

Continue reading “Old World Wine vs New World Wine”

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Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America Junmai Ginjo Genshu Saké

Tsubaki Grand ShrineThat’s quite a title there, isn’t it?

Let’s break it down:

Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America

The Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America (aka Tsubaki America Jinja) is the first Shinto shrine built in the mainland United States after World War II. It was erected in 1986 in Stockton, California, and moved to its current location next to the Pilchuck River in Granite Falls, Washington, in 2001.

The Gosaijin (enshrined spirits) of Tsubaki Grand Shrine are Sarutahiko-no-Ōkami, ancestor of all earthly spirits; and his wife Ame-no-Uzume-no-Mikoto, spirit of arts and entertainment, harmony, meditation, and joy. Also enshrined are Amaterasu Ōmikami (spirit of the sun), Ugamitama-no-Ōkami (spirit of foodstuffs and things to sustain human life), America Kokudo Kunitama-no-Kami (protector of the North American continent) and Ama-no-Murakumo-Kuki-Samuhara-Ryu-O (spirit of Aikido).

Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America is a branch of Tsubaki Ōkami Yashiro, one of the oldest and most notable shrines in Japan.

Photo: Magus Dethen

Photo: Alexander Kushi-Willis

Junmai

Junmai is pure rice wine, with no added alcohol). Until recently, at least 30% of the rice used for Junmai sake had to be milled away, but Junmai no longer requires a specified milling rate.

Ginjo

Ginjo designates that at least 40% of the rice has been polished away. If a bottle is labeled just Ginjo, distilled alcohol was added; if it is labeled Junmai Ginjo, no alcohol was added.

Genshu

Genshu is undiluted saké (literally, “original” (base) sake) which has not been diluted after pressing. However, saké which has had water added within a range that reduces the alcohol content by less than 1% is also considered genshu.

Saké

Saké, the national alcoholic beverage of Japan, is often called rice wine, but this is a misnomer.  While it is a beverage made by fermentation, the production process more closely resembles that of beer, and it is made from grain (rice, of course), not fruit.  To make saké, the starch of freshly steamed glutinous rice is converted to sugar and then fermented to alcohol.  Once fermented, the liquid is filtered and usually pasteurized.  Sakés can range from dry to sweet, but even the driest retain a hint of sweetness.

Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America Junmai Ginjo Genshu Saké

This saké is a domestic product from SakéOne saké brewery in Forest Grove, Oregon.  The company began as a saké importer in 1992, and in 1997 they expanded the operation and began brewing saké.

SakéOne’s modest tasting room.

In premium saké, water composition matters a great deal. SakéOne’s founder chose Oregon because he believed that the best-quality water for saké brewing is in the Northwest.

The other crucial component is rice, and SakéOne sources its Calrose rice from the Sacramento Valley. Calrose is derived from Japanese saké rice and has several qualities that produce saké with more body, higher viscosity, and a long finish.

This saké is the personal selection of Reverend Koichi Barrish and is a fundraiser for the Tsubaki Grand Shrine in Granite Falls, Washington, over which he presides.  20% of sales go to support the shrine.

This is a dryish, full-bodied saké with hints of spices and caramel.   The ABV is on the higher end at 18%, and the SMV* is +6.5..  The rice has a polish of 58%, so 42% of the rice has been removed.  Serve this chilled with poached clams, steamed asparagus, or lemon-baked salmon.

SakéOne also offers: Yomi, g, Momokawa, and Moonstone.

Yomi was the first canned sake available in the United States. Yomi is junmai ginjo saké, with a lower acidity and a medium body. It is 13% ABV.

g saké is genshu, undiluted sake. There are two varieties of g saké, g fifty genshu and g joy genshu, which have different taste profiles. Both are 18% ABV.

The Momokawa junmai ginjo saké line is about 14% ABV.  Momokawa Silver is dry and crisp, while Momokawa Organic Nigori is lush, smooth, fruity, and floral.

Moonstone is SakéOne’s premium junmai ginjo saké .

sakeone.com

**An important gauge of saké  is the SMV (Saké Meter Value).  This measures the density of saké relative to water, and is the method for determining the dryness or sweetness of saké. The higher the SMV, the drier the saké. The range is -15 to +15.

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Lustau Pedro Ximénez San Emilio Sherry

Lustau Pedro Ximénez San EmilioThe origins of Emilio Lustau S.A. date back to 1896, when José Ruiz-Berdejo, a secretary to the Court of Justice, started cultivating the vines of the family’s estate,  Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza, in his spare time. In these modest beginnings he made wines which were then sold to larger sherry producers. This activity was known as being an almacenista or stockeeper.

In 1931, his daughter, María Ruiz-Berdejo Alberti, acquired a small winery closer to the center of Jerez de la Frontera, and moved all the preexisting solera there, gaining notoriety and visibility.

In the early ’40s, Maria’s husband, Emilio Lustau Ortega moved the winery to the old Santiago district, in the historic quarter of Jerez. There, in buildings that were part of the historic Moorish walls of the city, he slowly began to expand the business, still as an almacenista.

In 1945 Lustau began to focus on the  promotion of its own brands: Papirusa, Jarana, Escuadrilla, Emperatriz Eugenia, and Cinta de Oro were some of them. In 1950, the company began exporting its sherries.

The 1980s were a quite prosperous decade for the Lustau enterprise.  In 1981 Solera Familiar was introduced, as well as the first Almacenista bottlings. In 1988 Lustau adopted a new bottle design for its wines. This dark bottle with sloping shoulders is exclusive to the company, distinguishing Lustau from the other Jerez wineries.  Lustau started to age the Vintage Series  in 1989.

In 1990 Lustau’s destiny changed when it merged with a Spanish family-owned company prominent within the wine and spirits business: Luis Caballero. This milestone in Lustau’s history meant important financial support and the possibility of further expansion and development.

In 2000, Lustau acquired six 19th century bodega buildings in the center of Jerez. These picturesque buildings were restored to their original glory and today house the principal ageing bodegas of Lustau.

Lustau has two vineyards in the so-called Sherry Triangle, Viña Montegilillo, with white clay soils (albariza) that are very appropriate for the cultivation of Palomino. From this variety they produce manzanilla, fino, amontillado, and oloroso wines. Viña Las Cruces, near the coast, features sandy soils suitable for Muscatel and Pedro Ximénez, which they use for the production of sweet wines.

Lustau’s awards include Best Spanish Winery in 2011, and Best Sherry Producer in 2014 and 2016 awarded by the International Wine & Spirit Competition. Lustau has also been awarded two consecutive times (first winery in history) the Len Evans Trophy to consistency in 2011 and 2016 by the International Wine Challenge.

Lustau Pedro Ximénez San Emilio Sherry

This wine is made from 100% Pedro Ximénez grapes instead of the usual Palomino used for sherry. They are sun-dried until they are practically raisins. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 12 years in American oak in the traditional solera system.

The word “unctious” could have been coined just to describe this sherry, which has an ultra-rich velvety mouthfeel.  This wine is as dark as Kahlua, and with even more viscosity.  Predictably, the taste is dominated by raisins, followed by dates, brown sugar, baking spices, and molasses.   It is extremely sweet, for sure, but very well balanced with just the right amount of acidity, and ends with a very long finish.

Enjoy this luxurious wine on its own, or pair it with blue cheese, nut-based desserts, chocolate, or sweet desserts

Pedro Ximénez San Emilio

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Camarena Tequila

Camerena TequilaWinter is behind us for yet another year, and even under quarantine, thoughts turn to relaxed evenings on the deck or patio, steaks or shrimp sizzling on the Weber, and something cool and refreshing in the glass. A crisp Chardonnay or ice-cold beer are nice, of course, but it’s hard to beat a well-made Margarita (no sweet-and-sour mix!) when the weather gets pleasant. And, of course, Cinco de Mayo is just a couple of days away as I write this.

A good Margarita is only as good as the tequila it’s made from, and the best tequila is 100-percent blue agave. Blue agave is a smooth-leafed succulent plant (a cactus-type plant with no needles). The unique blue cast of the plant’s leaves gave it its English name. Agave is native to the central Mexican state of Jalisco; it was there in 1761 that the Spanish-immigrant Camarena family co-founded the town of Arandas (approximately 280 miles east of Puerto Vallarta). In 1860 the Camarenas began cultivating blue agave for tequila, becoming one of Mexico’s top growers. Today, the family grows more than three million agave plants, some at an altitude of 7,700 feet, in the Los Altos Highlands, the world’s highest agave fields. Here, the mineral-rich volcanic soil, low rainfall, and temperate climate support plants of greater flavor maturity.

In 1938, the Camarenas began making their own tequila. The process starts when the seven- to ten-year old plants are hand-harvested by the field workers, the jimadores. The jimadores use sharp spades called coas to remove the spiky leaves from the agave. What remains is a trimmed central piña, often weighing more than 100 pounds.

The piñas are then slow-roasted for two days in ovens made of volcanic sandstone, to convert the agave’s fructose to fermentable sugar. Next, the cooked agaves are passed through a shredding mill to separate the juice from the pulp. A special wine yeast is added to the juice, or wort, to create a mildly alcoholic liquid called mosto. The mosto is then distilled using traditional, small pot stills.  Apparently, Camarena goes a step further.  According to their Web site, “we use a proprietary method which blends traditional ovens and modern techniques. This allows us to consistently produce one of the smoothest and best-tasting tequilas around.”  Indeed, both of Camarena’s tequilas are exceptionally smooth and appealing, and they are excellent values.  (There is also an Anejo, which I didn’t have a chance to try.)

E.&J. Gallo (yes, that Gallo) inked an exclusive deal to distribute Camarena in the U.S. in 2010, which is why the brand appeared nearly everywhere seemingly instantly.

To help get your summer started, here’s my personal Killer Margarita recipe: combine 4 oz. tequila, 2 oz. triple sec, and 3 oz. Rose’s lime juice with 1 cup crushed ice. Stir or shake until ice is nearly melted. Pour into salted-rim (I like to use a mix of 3-parts kosher salt to 1-part tajin seasoning) glasses half filled with ice cubes. Garnish with a fresh lime slice.

Camarena 100% Agave Silver

Camarena 100% Blue Agave Silver Tequila rests for several months after distillation to integrate flavors before it is bottled at 40% alcohol. This unaged tequila is completely clear, and exhibits hints of sweet vanilla and black pepper. Substitute it for vodka in a Bloody Maria.

Camarena 100% Agave Reposado

Camarena 100% Blue Agave Reposado Tequila is aged for two months in American oak barrels. The wood aging imparts a golden color, and brings out additional roundness to the flavor, as well as the natural agave sweetness. Substitute it for bourbon in a Mexican Manhattan.

https://www.tequilacamarena.com/

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Three Finger Jack Cabernet Sauvignon

Three Finger JackIn 1894, Gaspare Indelicato was born in the small village of Campobello di Mazara in the province of Trapani, Sicily. In 1911, at the tender age of 16, he emigrated to the United States through Ellis Island, New York.

Eventually, Gaspare and his wife Caterina settled in the agriculturally rich San Joaquin Valley, east of San Francisco.  In 1924, Gaspare and his brother-in-law Sebastiano made a bold decision to purchase an old dairy farm, planted grapes, and shipped them by train to home winemakers in the Chicago area during Prohibittion.

When “The Noble Experiment” was repealed in 1933, selling grapes to home winemakers was no longer profitable.  Sebastiano and Gaspare decided the only way to salvage their grape crop was to make wine.  In May of 1935, they  opened their winery in a converted hay barn and called it Sam-Jasper Winery after the Americanized versions of their first names.  Production began with 3,451 gallons (about 100 cases) of red wine which was sold to local farmers and friends.

As the business grew, Gaspare’s three sons, Frank, Anthony, and Vincent, joined the family winery in the 1950s. At that time, Frank was cellarmaster, Tony was winemaker, and Vince was the entire sales department.

Today, Delicato Family Wines is still family-owned by the heirs of Gaspare and Caterina’s three sons. The third and fourth generations of the Indelicato family are actively involved in the wine business and continue the tradition of producing and importing fine wines.

The Indelicato family is devoted to its California winemaking heritage of family farming, environmentally sensitive winegrowing practices, and economically sustainable principles.

 

“‘Family farmed’ encompasses the firmly-held belief that we are responsible for tending the earth and protecting its inhabitants,” explains Jay Indelicato. “This responsibility not only includes using environmentally sensitive farming practices, but also maintaining the highest ethical standards in our business dealings. My family has relationships with growers, banks, employees, and consumers that span decades. By thinking of ourselves as a “family farmed” company, it is a reminder that we have a responsibility to preserve and sustain the things that matter most.”

In addition to Three Finger Jack, Delicato Family Vineyards offers wines under such brands as Black Stallion, Bota Box, Gnarly Head, La Merika, and others.

Three Finger Jack Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Here’s the legend of Three Finger Jack. Make of it what you will: He was a notorious desperado who roamed the Sierras and the land east of Sacramento in the closing days of the Old West. Nobody knows where he came from, how he lost two fingers, or where he died. But his legend still lives on today in Lodi, California.

Lodi sits at the foothills of California Gold Country, 75 miles east of San Francisco. Pioneers knew that Lodi made superb wine country; so they planted vines there more than a century ago.  Its hot days are cooled by breezes from a vast river delta, and it’s home to soils that force vines to dig deep into the ground. Most of the Lodi region has deep, loamy soil. However, up on the east side, the soil is more rocky, with cobblestones and soil low in nutrients.

Three Finger Jack is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petite Sirah, 8% Malbec, 6% Merlot, and 1% other red varieties.  Part of the wine is aged in American and French oak with the rest in stainless steel.

Pouring from a unique squat bottle, TFJ is a transparent dark red in the glass. It features a robust 15% ABV, with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, and vanilla..  These and tastes of leather and cocoa follow, supported by good tannins and mild acidity.  It ends in a relatively short finish.

Pair this substantial wine with Lemon-Pepper Barbeque Ribs, Lamb Kabobs with Mustard Marinade, or Double Peanut-Crusted Pork Chops.
3fingerjack.com
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Cline Nancy’s Cuvee (with tuna souffle)

As you enter Sonoma county from the south on California 121, one of the first wineries you encounter is Cline Cellars, and there could hardly be a better introduction to the Carneros AVA.

Even as a young teenager, Fred Cline learned to make wine from his grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi (yes, he of the hydrotherapy tub, as well as many other innovations). With a $9000 inheritance from Valeriano, in 1981 Cline founded the eponymous Cline Cellars in Oakley, California.

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No. 3 London Dry Gin

No. 3 Gin

Berry Bros. & Rudd is a family-run British merchant founded in London in 1698. Since then, the company has grown from a small coffee shop into an international business with six offices worldwide.

The company started out selling coffee, and then diversified into cocoa, tea, snuff, spices, and other exotic goods, becoming one of London’s most fashionable grocers. Its West End location and close proximity to St James’s Palace also contributed to its growing popularity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No.3 St James’s Street

Today, the company offers an extensive range of wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhône and Italy. Berry Bros. & Rudd has been the official wine supplier to the British Royal Family since the reign of King George III. They received their first Royal Warrant of Appointment in 1903 when they formulated a ginger liqueur to revive Edward VII from cold car journeys, still sold as The King’s Ginger. Queen Elizabeth II granted the company her royal warrant in 1995, and Charles, Prince of Wales granted his in 1998.

The company also offers wine investment opportunities, wine storage, wine tastings, event,s and educational courses.

From 1923 to 2010 Berry Bros. & Rudd controlled Cutty Sark Scotch whisky, whose yellow label is famous the world over.

Once Berry Bros. & Rudd decided to try their hand at gin, it took a team of spirit specialists 730 days to refine and create No. 3 Gin.

The key prominently displayed on the bottle is a replica of that to The Parlour, one of the oldest rooms in the Berry Bros. shop. Chairman Simon Berry says that the key is a symbol of trust; a promise, as it were, that the gin is what customers would expect from such an establishment. The high-shouldered green bottle is inspired from the open pontil gin bottles that date back to 17th century.

David Clutton
Dr David Clutton – the only person in the world with a PhD in Gin.

Each batch is presided over by distiller Dr. Clutton, who starts by weighing and blending the six botanicals (grapefruit peel, orange peel, coriander, cardamom, juniper berries, and angelica root) in the recipe. They are then added to the still and steeped for over 16 hours in pure grain spirit. The next day, the distillation begins and lasts over seven hours. The ‘heart’ of the distillate is then collected. Finally, No. 3 is diluted to 46% ABV (the producer claims this is “the ideal amount”), and bottled.

clay-still.png

No. 3’s unique 100-year-old, brick-encased copper pot still in Holland, the home of gin.

This gin opens with crisp and fresh grapefruit, with forest-like juniper. The piney juniper continues on the palate, correctly, supported by floral notes and hints of spicy cardamom. There’s plenty of citrus ‘zing’ complemented by the gingery spiciness of the coriander. It all ends with the earthy dryness of angelica. The whole package is quite smooth and balanced. But remember that 46% ABV, and drink responsibly. This is high-octane stuff, and that smoothness can fool you if you’re not careful.

www.no3gin.com

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Garçon Wines Flat Wine Bottles

Although we are all now preoccupied with the health crisis created by COVID-19, eventually that will subside. Concerns over sustainability and responsibility in regards to the environment are never-ending, however.

The single biggest contributor to a bottle of wine’s carbon footprint is the glass bottle itself, which represents 29% of the carbon footprint of getting that wine to you. Add in the impact of other packaging such as case boxes, as well as transport, and the total burden increases to a total of 51%.

 

To address this issue, UK-based Garçon Wines invented patented, eco-friendly, flat wine bottles made of recycled polyethylene terephthalate [PET], which have the profile of traditional wine bottle shapes, but are lighter and more energy- and space-efficient than round, glass bottles of the same volume. Garçon Wines’ bottles also lend themselves to innovative transit packaging, which amplifies the single- bottle environmental benefits.

PET, which has rapidly become one of the world’s preferred packaging materials, is lightweight, shatterproof, resealable, reusable, and infinitely recyclable*. PET plastic bottles often have the lowest carbon footprint of competing products, and their production results in up to 70% less greenhouse gas emissions.

Amusingly, these flat bottles were developed originally to facilitate the delivery of wine into UK homes via the letterbox, by inventors and wine-retailing entrepreneurs Santiago Navarro and Joe Revell. They set out to improve consumer convenience, cut the costs of failed deliveries, and help to reduce the near 1 million kilograms (2.2 million pounds) of carbon emissions associated with deliveries in the UK.

 

“As we are facing a climate emergency and existential threat, we urgently need to be making changes to products to slash their carbon footprint. Flattening the wine bottle saves space and making it from recycled PET saves weight and energy,” said Santiago Navarro, CEO and co-founder of Garçon Wines.

To bring their unique product to the U.S. Garçon is partnering with Amcor, a global leader in developing and producing responsible packaging for food, beverage, pharmaceutical, medical, home- and personal-care, and other products. The company is focused on making packaging that is light-weight, recyclable, and reusable, and made using a rising amount of recycled content.

“We know today’s wine consumers are looking for a unique experience,” said Beth Rettig, vice president of spirits, wine and food, Amcor Rigid Packaging. “Amcor’s concepts are sleek, modern and perfectly matched to today’s lifestyle requirements for convenience and sustainability. PET bottles are unbreakable, beach- and pool-friendly, and the designs are only limited by the imagination.”

A 2018 Dow Packaging Innovation Awards Diamond Finalist, Garçon Wines’ flat wine bottle is expected to become widely available in the U.S. in the second half of 2020.

*With existing technologies including chemical recycling.

www.garconwines.com

www.amcor.com

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Cline Big Break Vineyard Grenache

Big Break Vineyard
Grenache 2014Cline Cellars

Grenache is one of the most widely planted red wine grape varieties in the world.  It ripens late, so it needs hot, dry conditions such as those found in Spain, where the grape most likely originated.

Cline’s Big Break Vineyard is named after a levee that collapsed over 80 years ago, flooding the surrounding local farmland near Oakley. The vineyard itself has extremely sandy and well-drained soils,  and is cooled by breezes from the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. The century-old vines are dry farmed and head pruned.

The juice for this Grenache was fermented at moderate temperatures in stainless steel tanks, using a selection of cultured yeasts. After 10 days of gentle “pump-overs” and near dryness, the wine was drained and pressed from its skins.  This Big Break Grenache was minimally handled and aged for 12 months in new, medium-dark toasted French oak (approximately 38% new) before bottling .

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LEAF Vodka

Leaf Vodkaby Spirits Contributor Neal Kotlarek

LEAF Vodka is sourced from two unique American waters. These water sources give LEAF vodkas their signature tastes.

LEAF Vodka made from Alaskan glacial water has a pure, smooth taste with a hint of sweetness, while LEAF vodka made from Rocky Mountain mineral water offers richness and complexity, lending a warm and savory impression on the palate. Both expressions are distilled five times, are made with USDA Certified Organic non-GMO wheat, and are unflavored. The difference is in the water, which constructs two distinct tastes for different taste profiles.

To date, LEAF has won over 20 awards since 2014 including multiple Double Gold and Best in Show awards from a variety of organization, including the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, the San Diego Spirits Festival, TheFiftyBest.com, the SIP International Consumer Tasting Awards, and the Ultimate Spirits Challenge among others.

leafvodka.com

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Handcraft Wines

Handcraft WinesCheryl Indelicato is part of the third generation of the family that owns Delicato Family Vineyards. Delicato offers wines under such brands as Black Stallion, Bota Box, Gnarly Head, La Merika, Massimo, and others.

Although born into the wine business, doing odd jobs at the winery as a little girl, her parents insisted that their children graduate from college and gather outside experience
by working elsewhere for at least three years before coming back to the family business, if they wished to do so.

Accordingly, Cheryl earned a Registered Nursing degree in 1985 and a Bachelor of Science Degree in Business in 1989. However, the family wine-making enterprise kept its hold on her, and she returned to the fold in 1990, working in various facets of the business.

All the while, she dreamed of creating her own wine brand. “I have always wanted to create my own wine with a style and flavor profile that appealed directly to women,” says Cheryl.

Cheryl began the project, called HandCraft Artisan Collection, in early 2010 when she teamed up with veteran winemaker Alicia Ysais to develop a wine that would be fruit-forward, distinct, and easy to enjoy—similar to the field-blend wines that Cheryl recalled from her family’s dinner table. The line includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvingnon, and Petite Syrah, as well as the more rarely seen (for California, at least) Pinot Grigio and Malbec, featured below.

As part of her passion to make a positive difference in people’s lives, Cheryl created “HandCraft Cares” to support important causes with financial and in-kind donations. She is involved in a number of initiatives at the community level to increase awareness and early detection of breast cancer. Since 2012, HandCraft has contributed $235,000 to support breast cancer research, prevention, and awareness.

HandCraft Pinot Grigio 2014

This Pinot gGigio underwent a cold-temperature fermentation and was aged entirely in stainless steel, for those of you put off by any oak. It is nearly colorless in the glass. But, no worries. The nose offers aromas of peaches and tropical fruit, with a floral background. In the mouth, the wine is medium bodied, with flavors of melon and key lime. It offers a nicely balanced, crisp acidity, and the finish is relatively short.

Enjoy this easy-going wine with Swordfish with Tarraogn Beurre Blanc, Tomatoes, and Black Olives; Chicken Marsala Burgers; or Crab with Bok Choy and Egg Stir Fry.

HandCraft Malbec 2013

Deep purple in the glass, this Malbec delivers aromas of plums and blackberries on the nose. The ripe plum continues as you begin to taste, complemented by a hint of dusty cocoa. The wine has a medium body and a medium finish, accompanied by a fair amount of tannins, but nothing excessive. A good value for the price.

This wine would go nicely with Guiness Pub Burgers, Oaxacan Black Mole with Braised Chicken, or Slathered Mesquite-Smoked Ribs.

http://www.handcraftwines.com/

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