Category: Review

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Benziger Family Winery

Benziger Family WineryBeyond the Pale

In the early 1980s, the Benziger family (not to be confused with Beringer, although they often are) migrated west from White Plains, N.Y., and started a winery on Sonoma Mountain. Winemaker Joe Benziger learned his craft by making large production wines for the Glen Ellen brand, but eventually decided that his future lay with a series of small, artisan wines, sustainably produced.

Depending on location, every Benziger vineyard is certified sustainable, organic, or biodynamic, using the most up-to-date green farming practices. But, just what does that mean? Green, sustainable, and organic are words that are often used rather casually. At Benziger, they try to be more precise.

Their third-party certified-sustainable vineyard program emphasizes environmentally-sound growing methods, such as biodiversity, soil revitalization, and integrated pest management. Their growers are required to participate in sustainable farming.

Organic grape growing avoids the use of synthetic chemicals and uses natural methods like crop rotation, tillage, and natural composts to maintain soil health, as well as natural methods to control weeds, insects, and other pests. The winery itself is certified organic, too. Organic is an evolutionary step up from sustainable. After that, many Benziger growers move on from certified organic to certified biodynamic.

Animals and beneficial gardens play an important part in biodynamic farming techniques. Benziger relies on sheep for the removal of overgrown cover crop, and they replace the need for mowing, disking, and spraying herbicides; they aerate the soil while continuously depositing nutrient-rich fertilizer throughout the vineyard.

Olive trees also support the health of the estate. Olives often grow well in the same climates and soils as wine grapes, and Benziger has been offering an Estate Biodynamic Olive Oil for a number of years.

Benziger North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2014

This very pale-yellow sipper is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from the North Coast appellation of Sonoma County. It opens with hints of melon on the nose. There is a subtle sweetness in the taste, suggesting peaches. The acidity comes on reminiscent of Key lime. It ends with a bit of bubbly on the finish.

Pair this easy-going wine with tabbouleh, braised swordfish in white wine, or grilled shrimp in a Catalan almond sauce.

Benziger Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2014

This selection looks more like cherry Kool-Aid than wine, but it’s wine, for sure. The understated nose features raspberry and sweet earth. The taste is cherry, alright, but this time of the tart variety. There is a medium finish with restrained tannins.

This easy-to-drink Pinot would go nicely with steam-poached salmon, Spanish chicken with sweet peppers, or Andalusian braised lamb shanks with honey.

https://www.benziger.com/

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BACA Wines

BACA WinesThe eponymous Kathryn Hall Wines are known for their Cabernet Sauvignons. A second label, WALT Wines, specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnday. In 2016, Ms. Hall’s daughter, Jennifer Brown,  launched a third winery for the family named BACA Wines. Latin for ‘berry,’ BACA’s focus is on California Zinfandel. According to Brown, “When we set out to create the BACA brand, we had one mission in mind: to produce luxury Zinfandels that are nuanced, honest, current, and fun. We saw a gap in the market with the Zinfandel varietal, so we decided to craft a luxury Zin brand aimed at the curious and the adventuresome – while focusing on quality.”

Brown is joined at BACA by winemaker Alison Frichtl Hollister, who notes, “I grew up in a creative household and I’ve always viewed the world through an artistic eye; I draw, paint, and make prints. That way of looking at the world, fresh, new, and intuitive, directs and focuses how I look at this project. At a basic level winemaking is chemistry and microbiology, but it takes someone with an ability to find beauty in the organic, chaotic part of the process. And that’s where my growing up with an eye for art and my degree in biology just made a good synthesis.”

BACA Wines director Jennifer Brown (L) and BACA Wines winemaker Alison Frichtl Hollister (R).

For many years, Zinfandel’s origins were quite mysterious. Then research indicated a relationship with Primitivo from Italy’s Puglia region. But in 2001, DNA fingerprinting directly linked Zinfandel to an obscure grape from Croatia. Aside from Italy’s Primitivo and isolated plantings in South Africa and Australia, almost all other Zinfandel wines come from California, where growing started in the 1850s.

HALL President, Mike Reynolds, in talking about BACA, stated, “We are excited about making Zinfandel that is diverse, from different places. We are fond of these wines in that we like to show off the differences in terroir, which is the essence of what our winery is all about. We thought that the Zinfandel grape was a great medium to do that with.”

BACA sources fruit from Calistoga, Russian River, Rockpile, Howell Mountain, and Paso Robles, all from prominent vineyards. Using winemaking techniques that include optical sorting, exacting fermentations, and aging in French oak barrels, BACA aims to craft wines that reflect their place and climate. The BACA wine portfolio includes these five Zinfandels: Double Dutch, Cat’s Cradle, Marbles, Tug O’ War, and I Spy. In addition, there is a four-pack canned wine, Ring Around the Rosé, also made from Zinfandel, of course.

BACA Double Dutch Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard 2017

The wine is sourced from the esteemed Dusi Vineyard which is located on the southern end of Paso Robles, just on the west side of Highway 101. This is a dry-farmed vineyard that was planted first in 1945. Soils are rocky at the vineyard site.

This Zin starts out ruby red in the glass, with a nose of cherry and blueberry. Next comes plenty of tart cherry on the palate, with touches of smoke and milk chocolate. It is all supported by good tannins and bright acidity. There is little black pepper, often a characteristic of Zinfandel. The finish is luxurious and long.

BACA Cat’s Cradle Zinfandel Rockpile AVA 2017

Rockpile AVA is an American Viticultural Area located in Sonoma County, northwest of the town of Healdsburg. Established on February 28, 2002, Rockpile AVA was Sonoma County’s twelfth designated wine appellation. The wine region consists of approximately 15,400 acres, with about 160 acres of planted wine grapes. All of the AVA has an elevation in excess of 800 feet above sea level.

This big wine is dark brick red. Leather and stone fruit are the initial aromas. It is racy in the mouth, with puckering (in a good way) acidity, and flavors of sour cherry and that typical black pepper. Well-built tannin carries through the lengthy finish.

Enjoy either of these selections with focaccia burger with tomato, arugula, and aioli; brine-cured port chops with balsamic glaze, or braised chicken with tomato, pancetta, and zinfandel.

https://www.bacawines.com/

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WALT Wines

WALT Clos Pepe Pinot NoirWALT Clos Pepe Pinot Noir 2014

WALT (a Kathryn Hall brand) sources grapes from Santa Barbara to Sonoma; Clos Pepe, an estate vineyard, is located in the Santa Rita Hills in the Central Coast region. This bottling is 100% Pinot Noir, and was barrel aged for 10 months. The dark red color is paired with a nose of strawberries, cherries, and cranberries. The smooth flavor features red berry, cocoa, and black pepper, with supporting warm oak and firm tannins. Although this wine is medium-bodied, it has a surprisingly long finish.

https://www.waltwines.com/

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Grace Lane Wines

Grace Lane WinesGrace Notes

Grace Lane wines are sourced from a family-owned winery in Mattawa, Washington, population 4,467, nestled in a bend of the Columbia river and 152 miles southwest of Seattle. The family had been farming in the area since the mid-1950s, and believed that the region’s moderate temperatures, low rainfall, and sandy soils would be ideal for wine grapes, and planted their first grapevines in the area in 1997.

But winemaking in Washington has a much longer history, of course. It began in 1872, when a winery on Stretch Island crushed a native American grape called Island Belle. After a brief flourishing, the scourge of Prohibition and even some of the state’s own tariff laws crippled the industry until the mid-1960s. However, the state now boasts over 200 wineries, and is well on its way to regaining its place on the wine map. Indeed, it is second only to California in American wine production.

The Columbia Valley is the largest wine-growing region in the state. It is a designated AVA [American Viticultural Area], and includes 1,152,000 acres in south-central Washington, and part of northern Oregon as well. Only about 29,000 acres are under cultivation, but that is enough to include 99 percent of Washington’s vineyards. Within the very large Columbia Valley AVA, subdistricts of Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla, and Puget Sound are also recognized.

To the west, the Cascade Mountain range protects the area from the cool weather coming in from the Pacific Ocean, making the Columbia Valley the warmest growing area in the Pacific Northwest. Unlike the western half of Washington, it also has the drier climate that quality winemaking requires. Because of the varying temperatures throughout the region, different grape varieties do well in its various locations, although white wines dominate.

Grace Lane Riesling 2013

If you like your wine sweet and easy, this could be the one for you. It shows light straw yellow in the glass. Next come the aromas of green apple and white peach. The flavor profile (officially “medium sweet” on the International Riesling Foundation’s sweetness scale) is soft and delicate, with suggestions of those same tree fruits and hints of spice box. The acidity is relatively low.

Enjoy this wine with Balsamic Glazed Salmon, Crab Cakes with Honey-Yogurt Salsa, or Sole with Grapes and Champagne.

Grace Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

With a color of dark garnet, this Cab begins with aromas of fresh-baked brioche and ripe plum. The flavors of dark fruit, prune, and black tea are fairly assertive at first, but soon settle down into a nicely balanced whole. Perhaps predictably, this wine is definitely different (in a good way) if you are used to California Cabs.

Pair this up with Smoked Salmon and Wild Rice Cakes with Paprika and Green Onion Aioli, Pork with Apples and Cider Cream Sauce, or Potato and Morel Mushroom Manicotti.

Update February 2021: recent research indicates Grace Lane is no longer in business.

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Nino Franco Winery

Nino Franco WineryTiny bubbles, in the wine
Make me happy (make me happy)
Make me feel fine (make me feel fine)
Tiny bubbles (tiny bubbles)
Make me warm all over.

Don Ho certainly appreciated sparkling wine, and I’m here to encourage you to do the same. There are plenty of reasonably priced bubblies available, so there is no need to save them for a special occasion (although that works too).

First, some clarification. Legally, only those sparkling wines produced in France’s Champagne region, a viticultural area 90 miles northeast of Paris, can be called Champagne. All other sparkling wines, i.e. spumante, prosecco, crémant, sparklers from California, are well…sparkling wine.

And that’s what Nino Franco Winery makes in Valdobbiadene in Italy’s Veneto region. Vines are grown only on the most sunny parts of the hills, at altitudes varying between 150 and 1500 feet above sea level, while the north-facing slopes are covered mainly in woodland.

The climate throughout the area is mild, with not excessively cold winters and warm summers, which is when the nobility of Venice likes to visit.

The Franco winery was founded here in 1919 by Antonio Franco. Under his son Nino the winery expanded its operations and markets. Primo, the third generation proprietor, currently oversees operations with his daughter Silvia.

Primo Franco took his diploma of oenology at the Scuola di Enologia in Conegliano (Veneto). He then decided to develop his own approach to the growth of the vines and the production of prosecco at this modern winery. Since October 1990 Primo has utilized non-traditional cultivation techniques combined with the use of old varietal clones. He also invested in the production process in order to eliminate all those wines that were atypical for the area.

Nino Franco Rustico Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG NV

This is a brut, or quite dry, prosecco. It is very pale yellow in the flute, with rather coarse bubbles that quickly dissipate. It features flavors of traditional green apple and a hint of ginger ale. With a medium body and a clean finish, this would be excellent as an apertivo. Drink this young and lively prosecco soon after purchase.

This wine wants to be served with appetizers, such as a classic Bruschetta, Tomatoes Stuffed with Shrimp, or Grilled Mussels and Clams on the Half Shell.

Nino Franco Faìve Rosè Brut Spumante NV

Faìve [fieEEve] is Italian for those sparks and tongues whipping about at the top of a fire, which gives this copper-hued wine its name. Another product of Primo Franco’s restlessness, Faìve is an untraditional blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, both cold soaked on the skins.

The nose appropriately recalls dried red rose petals, with a bit of vanilla and honey. The taste is nicely balanced: dry, with lively acidity, black cherry fruit, a hint of tannic bitterness, and plenty of bubbles, of course.

Despite its color, this is a wine for savory dishes, like Risotto with Clams, Fricasseed Chicken with Egg and Lemon, or Frittata with Tomato, Onion, and Basil.

https://www.ninofranco.it/en/

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Gnarly Head

Gnarly HeadThat’s Like, Gnarly, Dude

Hey, man, check out this gnarly wine. Gnarly Head wine, actually.

Starting from San Francisco, go about 100 miles east and a bit north and you’ll reach Lodi, California, home of Gnarly Head Winery.

And, where does that unusual name come from?

In 2005, the founders of Gnarly Head went in search of a vineyard suitable for making the Zinfandel they dreamed of. They found it in Lodi, when they came upon some of the oldest vines in California. Old vines are also known as heritage vines, old world vines, and most importantly gnarly vines. The 30- to 80-year-old vines have twisted, old trunks and branches sprouting in all directions—truly gnarly heads. The free- standing mop-topped ‘head trained’ vines found in these old vineyards were the nursery for Gnarly Head Old Zinfandel. Grapes from these old vines are small and few, but offer the big flavor the winemakers were looking for.

Since 2005, the winery has expanded to include a total of nine selections in the house style, including the original Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, a red blend and a white blend.

Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2012

If you are not a big fan of Chardonnay, especially in the oaky style, this could be the one for you. Gnarly Chard is almost colorless in the glass, it is so pale. The nose features suggestions of melon and pineapple.

These flavors continue on the palate, which also adds pear, plenty of citrus, and a touch of vanilla on the finish. It’s much like a Pinot Grigio, although Gnarly Head makes one of those, as well. The 2012 Gnarly Head Chardonnay is crafted using grapes from specially selected vineyards in Lodi and Monterey.

Spring may seem impossibly far away now, but it will be here before we know it. When it does arrive, have this wine ready to pair with Tuna au Poivre, Sea Bass with Olives and Roast Tomatoes, or Poached Chicken with Avgolemono Sauce.

Gnarly Head Malbec 2012

Although based in California, Gnarly Head isn’t afraid to travel the world in search of wines that match their product philosophy, in this case down Argentina way. Famous as the epicenter of Malbec, Mendoza abuts the eastern foothills of the Andes, 220 winding miles from Santiago, Chile.

The vineyards of Mendoza are some of the highest in the world. The difficult sandy soils there stress the vines, leading to concentrated juice.

This 2012 was Gnarly Head’s inaugural Malbec offering. The deep-purple color in the glass follows on with aromas of dark berry fruits. The fruit character was preserved by aging the wine for six months in split lots, some in oak and some in stainless steel to restrain the tannins (but not too much). Finishes with plenty of blueberry and blackberry.

Enjoy this value wine with Aegean Lamb Casserole with Pasta, Beef Tangine with Prunes, or Herb Braised Rabbit.

https://www.gnarlyhead.com/global

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Rabble Wine Company

Rabble Wine CompanyRousing Rabble

If you are looking for affordable, approachable, easy-drinking wines, I suggest you seek out those from Paso Robles. This large but lesser-known appellation was established in 1983 (a mere toddler in wine years), and is located around the town of Paso Robles in the northern part of California’s San Luis Obispo County. Most of the growing area is classified as Region III, equivalent to France’s Rhône region. At last count, there were over 18,000 acres under vine.

Rabble Wine Company encompasses four labels: Rabble, Stasis, Amor Fati, and Tooth & Nail. Rabble’s estate winery and visitor center is regarded as one of the region’s leading destinations, featuring a somewhat kitschy castle-like building that includes an expansive tasting room.

Rabble was founded by Rob and Nancy Murray in 2011. In addition to becoming a vintner, Rob has been a grower and vineyard owner for over 20 years. He continues to own and manage properties from Paso Robles to Santa Maria, with his own brands utilizing roughly five percent of the grapes he farms. He’s obviously doing something right, as Rabble is one of Paso Robles’ fastest-growing labels.

Speaking of labels, I’m almost always more interested in what’s in a wine bottle than what’s on it. However, the iconoclastic labels for Rabble and its sister brands have attracted a lot of attention in the wine press. The Rabble labels are renditions of historical woodblock prints from the Nuremberg Chronicle, dating to the late 1400s. They have been faithfully reproduced, including a full-embossing rarely seen in this context. The images depict nature’s wrath, as a reminder to work in concert with her at all times.

Rabble Red Blend 2015

This disorderly mob member hails from Mossfire Ranch, about three miles southwest of Paso Robles. A mix of 90% merlot and 10% syrah, it greets you with its bright red-purple color and aromas of red cherry and cocoa on the nose, with just a hint of anise. The rich cherry continues on the palate, adding red berries and delicate spice notes. The flavors, lively acidity and firm but sweet tannins are remarkably balanced. An excellent value. The label illustrates the Apocalyptic Comet falling upon Florence with the Unicorn and Phoenix.

Try this wine with cranberry-cheddar brats with bell peppers, New Mexican rubbed pork tenderloin, or grilled chicken with Fresno chile/plum sauce.

Rabble Caberrnet Sauvignon 2016

Another Mossfire offering, on first approach currant, cocoa, and a hint of tobacco drift from the glass. Again, the taste of cherries, but this time of the tart variety, supported by vanilla, dried sage, blueberry, and cassis. These are complemented by woody notes from the French oak, which also supplies lively and supple tannins and a nice long finish. And the label? Mount Vesuvius Erupting over Pompeii.

Enjoy this wine with venison and black bean chili with toasted cumin crema, pan-roasted chicken with blackberry-ancho sauce, or red chile and honey-glazed salmon.

https://www.rabblewine.com/

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Byron Wines

Byron WinesThe Poetry of Byron

Fill the goblet again! for I never before
Felt the glow which now gladdens my heart to its core;
Let us drink!—who would not?—since, through life’s varied round,
In the goblet alone no deception is found.
—Lord Byron (1788-1824), English poet

Designated in 1981, the Santa Maria Valley AVA is located in the northernmost part of Santa Barbara County, just east of Santa Maria city. The east–west orientation of the wide, open valley means cool winds and fog flow in freely from the Pacific Ocean, settling most noticeably in lower-lying areas. This cool maritime influence lengthens the growing season (among the longest in the world), and contributes to the eventual sugar/acid balance in Santa Maria Valley’s wines.

The first Santa Barbara County vineyard established in the 20th century was planted in 1964 by Uriel Nielson; it has been Byron Winery’s estate vineyard for over 30 years. 18 miles inland from the Pacific, this historic benchland vineyard serves as a model for Santa Barbara’s viticultural experimentation and sustainable farming methods (It is California Sustainable Winegrowing Certified).

Nielson was largely replanted in 1991, and it has since been enhanced with considerable investment. A new 4,000-barrel-capacity winery has been built, and in 2014, Byron returned to its focus on single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, presenting this unusual opportunity to review two very different wines from the same vineyard.

Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay 2014

This light-golden-hued wine hails from the original “Wente” clone, which at Byron was planted in 1964 and again in 1999. The harvest was fermented in barrel with full malolactic fermentation, and then aged in the same barrels (French oak, 54% new) for 15 months. The resulting wine features aromas of butter and mango. The palate is full-bodied and has a rich mouthfeel, with hints of apricot, lemon, grapefruit, and minerals.

Try this Chardonnay with roasted halibut with romesco and pine nut butter; Dungeness crab salad with mango vinaigrette; or seared sea scallops with coconut risotto.

Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Three Pinot clones were used for this wine. They came from the east end of the property, which is very sandy with outcroppings of shale and limestone. The fruit was aged in 35% new French oak.

This expression of the ever-obstinate pinot noir is rich ruby-hued in the glass, with mouth-watering aromas of dark fruits, brown spice, smoke, and dried thyme Those scents carry on to the the flavor, especially wild blackberry. The whole shebang is supported by good acidity and astringent tannins.

Serve this wine with seared Muscovy duck breast with saffron risotto; sausage-stuffed calamari; or smoked pork tenderloin with vanilla jus.

https://www.byronwines.com/

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Jack’s House Wines

Jack’s House WinesThis Is the House
That Jack Built

Jack Nicklaus needs no introduction, of course. The Golden Bear is the winner of 18 major golf championships, a golf course designer, a tournament manager, a golf equipment manufacturer, a product endorser, an author, and a philanthropist.

Jack and Barbara Nicklaus founded the Nicklaus Children’s Health Care Foundation in 2004, which provides valuable programs and services to more than 4,000 hospitalized children and their families, free of charge, through Child Life programs, the Pediatric Oncology Support Team, and the Safe Kids program.

Collaborating with pediatric hospitals across the country, the Foundation has grown to support innovative programs focused on the diagnosis, treatment, and prevention of a host of childhood illnesses.

Expanding on that mission, the Nicklaus’s have partnered with the Terlato family, producer of Jack Nicklaus Wines, to create the Jack’s House Foundation. In addition to lending support to the Nicklaus Children’s Health Care Foundation, the Jack’s House Foundation also helps fund Judi’s House, a Denver-area organization devoted solely to supporting grieving children and their families, and the Sepsis Alliance, helping to save lives by raising awareness of sepsis as a medical emergency.

“When Barbara and I started the Nicklaus Children’s Health Care Foundation, we wanted to help provide world-class medical care to those who need it,” Jack Nicklaus said. “This newest partnership with Terlato Wines helps us expand that vision, reaching even more people, with great wines for a great cause.” Ten percent of the net sales from every bottle purchased is donated to the Jack’s House Foundation.

Both of this month’s wines are made by the somewhat mysterious 2Sons Winery of Sonoma, which is owned and managed by the Terlato Family wine empire. The vineyards and winery were founded in 1981. Three friends, John Grace, Mark Rafanelli, and Philip Staley (so why isn’t the winery named 3Sons? See? Mystery.), joined forces and purchased the site that was formerly the Alderbrook Estate. In 2000 the Terlatos were asked to develop a long-range plan to produce world-class wines and market 2Sons throughout the U. S. The Terlatos later purchased a majority share, and invested in both vineyard sources and winery to provide the winemaking team with the best grapes and equipment available. This has helped position the winery to produce single vineyard and estate wines with an on-going focus on Zinfandel.

Jack’s House Chardonnay 2014

This is a golden-hued, easy-drinking summer sipper. Made of 100% chardonnay, the wine was aged sur lie, which is to say, ‘on the lees,’ a common practice for chardonnay. Lees is the coarse sediment (mainly dead yeast cells and small grape particles) that accumulate during fermentation and aging, which in this case was entirely in stainless steel.

The wine has a delicate nose, is very dry, and features suggestions of green apple, peach, and lime pith on the tongue. The finish is quite short.

This would pair nicely with Salmon Pâté, Rolled Sole Fillets in Vermouth Sauce, or Spaghetti with Mussels, Sicilian Style.

Jack’s House Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This ruby-colored wine is more transparent than most Cabernet Sauvignons. The nose reveals typical aromas of dark stone fruits, while the flavors are tart cherry, plum, cocoa, and a hint of coffee. The tannins and acid are there, but well-integrated and balanced. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 21 months in 50% new French oak barrels.

Enjoy this vino with Chicken Gumbo, Beef Rolls Stuffed with Pork and Dill Pickles, or Lamb Chops with Four Garlic Sauces.

http://www.jackshousefoundation.org/our-wines

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Federalist Wines

Federalist WinesWe the People
(Who Drink Wine)

The Federalist, later known as The Federalist Papers, is a series of tracts written in support of the ratification of our nascent nation’s Constitution. The Federalists believed in strong national government, supported modernization, manufacturing, and industrial development, and the use of a tariff to fund the Treasury. (That’s the IRS, folks.) They supported a national Bank of the United States, and funding national and state debts incurred during the Revolutionary War. In foreign affairs the Federalists opposed the French Revolution, and sought a strong army and navy. Noted Federalists were: Alexander Hamilton, James Madison, John Jay, George Washington, and John Adams, the only Federalist president of the U.S.

The Federalist wines are produced by the somewhat mysterious 2Sons Winery, which is owned and managed by the Terlato Family wine empire. The vineyards and winery were founded in 1981. Three friends, John Grace, Mark Rafanelli, and Philip Staley (so why isn’t the winery named 3Sons? See? Mystery.), joined forces and purchased the site that was formerly the Alderbrook Estate. In 2000 the Terlatos were asked to develop a long-range plan to produce world-class wines and market 2Sons throughout the U. S. The Terlatos later purchased a majority share, and invested in both vineyard sources and winery to provide the winemaking team with the best grapes and equipment available. This has helped position the winery to produce single vineyard and estate wines with an on-going focus on Zinfandel.

Federalist Chardonnay 2011

This golden Chardonnay hails from the Russian River Valley AVA’s northern end near Healdsburg, approximately 80 miles north of San Francisco. Things start out with aromas of lemon and green apple. The lemon continues on the palate, with the addition of lime and pear. All of this means a bracing acidity, of course. The oak is certainly present, adding to a round, rich mouth feel, as is just a hint of sweetness. The nicely long finish features hints of cinnamon and bitter almond.

Separate Chardonnay blocks were barrel fermented in 30% new oak and aged in barrel for nine months. 2500 cases were produced.

This food-friendly wine calls for an Artichoke and Leek Frittata, Dungeness Crab Risotto with Lemon and Parsley, or Steamed Mussels with Saffron Aioli.

Federalist ‘1776’ Lodi Zinfandel 2013

We now travel from 80 miles north of San Francisco to 80 miles east, to the vineyards near Lodi, which produce about 18% of California’s wine grapes, more than Sonoma and Napa combined. The area is particularly hospitable to Zinfandel, a uniquely American grape, and this wine is no exception.

The nose reveals red fruits: cherry with a bit of plum. This dark-purple wine features flavors of blackberry, plum, and cinnamon. It also includes Zinfandel’s characteristic pepperiness, which some winemakers are moving away from.

Enjoy this Zin with Bruschetta with Cherry Tomatoes, Wine Braised Short Ribs with Balsamic Glaze, or Grilled Rib-eye Steaks with Roasted Garlic Butter.

https://www.federalistwines.com/american-craft-wine

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Wyoming Whiskey

Wyoming Whiskey

By Spirits Contributor Neal Kotlarek

Small batch whiskey, we have been told, is a welcome trend. The Mead family first came to Wyoming in 1890 as ranchers. While subsequent generations have endeavored in law, politics, and extreme skiing, Sam Mead is leading the fifth generation toward renown as a premier whiskey producer. Wyoming Whiskey products include four varieties. Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey is a traditional bourbon whiskey that is dark amber in color and smooth to the taste buds. Flavors that can be detected include brown baking spices, vanilla crème, caramel, and cinnamon.

http://www.wyomingwhiskey.com

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Trapiche Broquel

Trapiche BroquelNo Llores Por Mi, Argentina

Come with us now to Argentina, famous for the tango, Che Guevara, gauchos, and, increasingly, wine. Like 85 percent of Argentina’s quality producers, Trapiche is located in Mendoza in the north-central part of the country near the eastern foothils of the Andes.

Trapiche was founded in 1883 by Tiburcio Benegas. The winery was privately held for nearly 120 years, and grew to 16,500 acres of vineyards. A consortium of investment bankers acquired the business in 2002, and reduced the area under cultivation to 3,100 acres. The winery also sources fruit from over 200 independent growers, enabling Trapiche to become the largest producer of wine in Argentina. It is a two-time winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition Argentinian Wine Producer of the Year award.

The winery is committed to biodynamic viticultural practices, which are aimed at preserving the natural properties of crops by eliminating the use of chemicals, herbicides, and fungicides. Biodynamics also strives to sustain ecosystem balance, biological diversity, and to recover bacterial activity in the soil. Organic plant and animal fertilizers are sourced from a farm located at the the winery.

The extensive Trapiche portfolio includes Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Merlot, Torrontes, Rosé, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, and Tempranillo, as well as a yearly set of single-vineyard Malbecs created by winemaker Daniel Pi as a way to show an appreciation for smaller, individual Mendoza growers.

Trapiche Broquel Chardonnay 2011

Trapiche’s Broquel (Spanish for shield) wines are sourced from high-altitude vineyards with the best terriors for each variety. This wine’s lemonade-yellow appearance is complemented by suggestions of grapefruit and ripe melon on the nose. That ripe melon continues in the taste, complemented by honey and spice. The mouthfeel has an unsalted butter roundness and a silky smoothness. The wine was aged for 15 months in 100% new French and American oak barrels.

Try this Chard with Seafood Ceviche, Braised Snapper and Mussels, or Chicken à la Chinita.

Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2011

Malbec is a black-skinned grape variety native to southern France, but now better known as the iconic wine grape of Argentina. Through its success in the vineyards of Mendoza, in a few short decades Malbec has shot from relative obscurity to international fame.

Although some Malbec producers are moving toward a more “international,” fruit-forward style, native Argentinian Daniel Pi prefers the expression of a more traditional approach.

And, yes, the fruit is somewhat recessive in this wine. It is dark garnet in the glass, with good legs (those little rivulets that drain back into the bowl). On the palate I tasted blueberry and black fruits, cocoa, and black-tea tannins. It ends with a moderate-length finish.

This wine will go nicely with Braised Rabbit in Unsweetened Chocolate Sauce, Flank Steak Filled with Spinach and Pistachios, or Grilled Venison.

https://www.trapichewines-usa.com/tier/broquel/

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Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Tequila

Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Tequila

Cuervo Reserva de la Familia is the world’s first extra-añejo tequila. It is drawn from the Cuervo® family’s private reserve collection of tequilas, relying on a family recipe handed down over ten generations.  Each bottle is numbered, dated, and sealed in wax. All by hand. The tequila is made using only the flavorful inner portion of hand-selected blue agave plants harvested at peak maturity after seven to twelve years of growing in the field.  After distillation, it is aged in French and American oak barrels for a minimum of two years, although the final blend includes tequila from reserves as old as 30 years. Definitely not for shots or margaritas, Reserva de la Familia is best served in a snifter, allowing for full appreciation of its flavors and aromas of rich oak, toasted almonds, vanilla,  and cinnamon. There is a long and velvety finish. At about $170 per 750ml bottle, this is a rare treat for most of us, but worth it if you can swing it. Cuervo commissions a different well-known Mexican artist each year to design the wooden presentation box Reserva de la Familia comes in, so the current offering won’t match this photograph.

http://www.reservadelafamilia.com/

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Cuvaison Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Cuvaison Chardonnay and Pinot NoirMean, Green,
Winemaking Machine

Established in 1969, Cuvaison (French for maceration, the period of time grape juice spends in contact with the skins and seeds) is an estate vineyard and winery that produces primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both grown exclusively in the Carneros AVA on the northern end of both Sonoma and Napa. When the winery was founded, the Carneros region was little known for grape growing, and much of the acreage was pastureland. But, the area’s cool bay breezes and frequent fog are ideal for wine, and it is now home to thirty-one wineries and an equal number of growers.

Cuvaison is certified sustainable under the Napa Green designation, meaning they have been recognized for their work in reducing the impact on the environment. The winery is 85% solar powered; they have invested in a water recirculation/conservation program (quite critical as California often suffers from severe drought); and they started a cork recycling program where wine club members and neighboring wineries bring their popped corks to be ground for repurposing.

Steve Rogstad, yet another graduate of UC Davis’ viticulture and enology program, has been winemaker since 2002. While working on a six-month post-graduate internship in Beaujolais, Steve discovered that, “Working with just one varietal and tasting fifty different wines from one region, I really started to understand the concept of terroir. It made an impression that lasts to this day.” The experience also taught Rogstad how to isolate and work with small wine lots, a practice that is at the core of his winemaking philosophy. In addition to Cuvaison, Rogstad has worked at such well-known wineries as La Crema, Saintsbury, Rombauer, Spring Mountain, and Clos Pegase.

Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay 2012

This Chardonnay is over half of Cuvaison’s yearly production, so a lot is riding on what’s in the bottle. 20% of this Chard saw new French oak for eight months. There was about 60% malolactic conversion, but it is not overly buttery or lacking in varietal characteristics. It presents a pale yellow in the glass, understating the fulsomeness to come. On the nose, you are greeted with aromas of honeysuckle, honeydew melon, and sweet citrus. These continue on the well-balanced palate, plus the addition of crisp stone fruit such as white peach, apricot, and nectarine.This is supported by a nice lemon/lime acidity.

Enjoy this wine with Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, Cool Honeydew-Mint Soup, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.

Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir 2013

This Pinot Noir is classically transparent ruby in the glass. It features a light, silky mouthfeel, and the nose offers subtle hints of grass, green herbs, and berries. The palate bursts with raspberry, strawberry, fresh cherry, and cola. These flavors are complemented with balanced acidity and round, understated tannins.

This wine would pair nicely with Tomato and Onion Tart, Summer Vegetable Calzone, or Nut-Crusted Trout with Romesco Sauce.

https://www.cuvaison.com/

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Migration Sonoma Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Migration Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Duckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.

Duckhorn’s newest label is Migration,  established in 2001 in the Anderson Valley. Migration focused first on Pinot Noir. Shaped by the valley’s cool nights, fog-shrouded mornings and mild, sunny afternoons, this inaugural release established Migration’s stylistic identity, producing wines with abundant fruit and bright acidity.

In 2008, Migration produced its first Chardonnay using fruit from vineyard sources in the Russian River Valley. This wine is the first Chardonnay in Duckhorn’s 30-year history. In preparing for the Chardonnay production, Migration saw the potential for Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, and made its first Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in 2008 as well.

Migration was initially guided by young rising-star winemaker Neil Bernardi. A native of northern California, Bernardi studied at the University of California, Davis, the academic epicenter of California viticulture. After taking degrees in Italian and enology, Bernardi set off for New Zealand and found work with Saint Clair Estate, Cape Campbell, and Kim Crawford there. Once back in the States, he became assistant cellarmaster at Quintessa in Saint Helena, California, and then moved on to Littorai in Sonoma in 2007. He joined the Duckhorn family as enologist at Goldeneye. Bernardi became Migration’s winemaker in 2009. He has stated, “Traditionally the character of a particular wine is connected to a specific place. Migration offers a different paradigm. We are starting with a clearly defined style and exploring how that style can be expressed in different regions.” Following his success at Migration, Neil is now Vice President & General Manager – Kosta Browne, Canvasback.

In 2014, Migration acquired the Running Creek Vineyard, located in the heart of the Russian River Valley. This Estate vineyard features 70 acres of Pinot Noir vines and 20 acres of Chardonnay.

In 2017, following her tenure as the winemaker for Decoy, Dana Epperson became the winemaker for Migration, where she has established a reputation for a style of winemaking that seamlessly balances vibrancy and finesse.

Migration Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2017
Migration Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2017

Although starting in the Russian River Valley in the inland Santa Rosa area, Migration has continued to expand their sources, heading towards vineyards near the coast for these selections.

There was plenty of rain in Sonoma in the winter and spring of 2017, followed by a warm summer.  A major heat spike occurred just as this fruit was coming to ripeness, requiring fast-paced hand-picking at night.

The 100% Chardonnay matured for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 35% new and 65% neutral oak.  It also saw 75% malolactic fermentation.

Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a dominant nose of lemon, with trailing aromas of apple and pear.  The citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit continue on the palate, abetted by hints of vanilla and baking spice. Quite good acidity.

The Pinot Noir is 100% varietal, and matured for 10 months in 100% French oak,  35% new and 65% neutral. Sourced from six vineyards in the Green Valley, Russian River Valle,y and Petaluma Gap. A blend of more than 80 small lots of wine that winemaker Epperson has to work with. Excellent quality and value considering the huge production of 23,000 cases.

One is greeted by a bright, festive red color, with cherry and blueberry aromas.  The taste is of tart cherry, cranberry, and subtle oak. The wine is quite dry, silky,  and supported by a backbone of well-balanced tannins. It ends with a medium-length finish.

For a look at another Migration Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, click over to:

https://winervana.com/migration-wines-review/

https://www.migrationwines.com/

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