Category: Review

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Lockwood Vineyard

Lockwood Vineyard

Lockwood Vineyard was founded in 1989 by Paul Toeppen, Phil Johnson, and Butch Lindley as a single, contiguous, 1,850 acre vineyard (one of the largest premium estate vineyards in the world) located in southern Monterey County, not far from Monterey Bay. Lockwood exclusively produces “estate” wines. This means that all of their wines come from grapes grown in their own vineyards, and then fermented, matured, and bottled at the winery on-site.

Nestled at the base of the Santa Lucia mountains, the vineyard soil consists of “shaly loam,” a well-drained, calcareous “chalk-rock” found in only two small areas of Central California. Because the soil has a low nutrient and mineral content, the vines must work hard for survival. In the hands of a skilled winemaker, this struggle of the vines can result in some of the best and most interesting wines.

Such a winemaker is Thane Knutson, who was born and raised on the plains of Oklahoma. He took a degree in International Business from the University of Oklahoma, while he made wine in his dorm room closet and worked in the cellar of a local winery in Slaughterville, Oklahoma.

After college, Knutson moved out to Napa Valley and interned at Cakebread Cellars.  He then spent two years at Hess Collection Winery as the laboratory technician before joining Raymond Vineyards just two weeks before current Lockwood Vineyard owner Jean-Charles Boisset made his entrance.  At Boisset Collection, Knutson was promoted from Laboratory Technician, to Enologist, and finally to Lockwood Winemaker.

Knutson’s experience with Hess and Raymond inspired his passion for cool weather varietals and innovative winemaking.

Monterey Merlot 2002

Sideways notwithstanding, this wine shows that a well-made Merlot can be flavorful and satisfying. This one opens with aromas of strawberry, raspberry and cherry.  It features plenty of concentrated fruit supported by touches of  mint, spice, pepper, and soft tannins.  It is deep purple in color and has a moderately long finish.

Pair with not-too-spicy pork or poultry dishes.

Monterey Chardonnay 2004

Looks can be deceiving; although very pale in the glass, this wine greets you with aromas of green apple, citrus, and mineral notes.  It is extremely well balanced on the palate, with flavors of honeysuckle and passion fruit. That hint of initial sweetness quickly yields to a firm acidity and a restrained French oak backbone.

https://lockwoodvineyard.com/

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Israel’s Yatir Winery

Yatir Winery

The Yatir region in the Judean Hills has produced grapes for winemaking since the ancient days of the Judean kingdom.  A large Jewish settlement existed in this region between the periods of the destruction of the Second Temple to the inception of the Islamic period.

Although the Israeli wine industry is 2,500-years-old, winemakers from this area of the Negev have only relatively recently been drawing critical and commercial acclaim.

David Ben-Gurion was the primary national founder and the first Prime Minister of Israel, which he led from 1948 until 1963 (with a short break in 1954-55).  He had a quixotic dream of making the Negev region in the south bloom and blossom.  When he decided to plant a forest in the area, he consulted with experts to guide him through the process. After numerous discussions and assessments, the agronomists determined that the region, which was predictably dry and warm, was unsuitable for planting trees. Ben-Gurion had other plans in mind however.  “Replace the experts!” he demanded.  A forest was in fact established, and it has gone on to become one of Israel’s largest . It was named after the Levite biblical city of Yatir, whose ruins remain within. The site serves as a “green lung” and a hiking site, as well as an experimental model for innovative methods for combating desertification. The Yatir Winery vineyards were planted as part of that effort.

Yatir Winery was established in 2000 as a joint venture between local growers and the Carmel Winery, who recognized the potential of the Yatir region. The Yatir Winery was built at the foot of the Israelite Tel Arad Fort (an archeological site), 10 minutes away from the vineyards.

Yatir Winery’s first wine was released in 2004, and today the winery produces 150,000 bottles. Over the years, this desert winery has become a symbol of the region.

Yatir’s  growers and winemakers are committed to excellence every step of the way – from growth and cultivation to harvest, fermentation, aging, and bottling – employing the most cutting-edge technology and equipment available to the industry today.

The vineyards of Yatir Winery are planted at an altitude of up to 900 meters [3000 feet] above sea level, and are scattered across various locations in the forest. The plots in these vineyards have varying soil compositions, with different slants and angles. The climate is characterized by cool, breezy mornings, dry days, cold nights (even at the peak of summer) and snowy winters. The soil is well-drained limestone, chalk, and clay that ensures low yields.

“We are proud to be planting in vineyards from an ancient region, where wine presses existed more than 3,000 years ago,” said Yaakov Ben Dor, Yatir Winery’s general manager.

“Although Israel’s winemaking tradition is ancient, the current industry is still young.  Israel has been widely recognized as capable of producing world-class wines, and growth is happening fast. We are pleased by the exciting potential of the region,” reported Etti Edri, Yatir’s export manager.

According to Eran Goldwasser, who oversees Yatir’s vineyards and production, “At Yatir Winery we are integrating state-of-the-art winemaking and technology within a man-made forest in the heart of the desert, to produce award-winning wines.  Though it seems unlikely, this area in Israel provides an excellent environment for wine making.  Due to Israel’s warm Mediterranean climate, the grapes have no trouble ripening.  As the vines age, yields will decrease, and our wines will become more nuanced.”

Yatir Creek 2016

This blend of 76% Syrah, 12% Tannat, and 12% Malbec is plum red in the glass.  The nose offers aromas of rhubarb, cherries, cassis, and a hint of green olives. The palate presents flavors of recessive fruit, coca, and cigar box.  The  tannins feature a slightly salty and pleasantly bitter finish.  The wine was aged  for 12 months in large oak barrels,  and aged in the bottle for two years.

I suggest serving this wine with Moroccan chicken with preserved lemons and olives; souvlakia (skewered lamb) with grilled vegetables; or sghenna (a one pot meal for the Sabbath).

Yatir Mt. Amasa White 2017

With an unusual blend of 52% Chenin Blanc, 39% Viognier, and 9% Roussanne, this  white displays a pale golden-greenish hue.   The aromas hint at grapefruit and actetone (which disappears after chilling).  That grapefruit is joined by peach, and pear on the palate.  There is a soft mouthfeel and balanced acidity.  The wine was fermented and aged for five months in a combination of concrete amphorae (a growing trend internationally), oak barrels, and stainless steel vats.

Yatir Mt. Amasa White would go well with Libyan fish tangine; sea bass with olives and roast tomatoes; or saffron chicken and mussels.

Or, if you’re not an observant Jew, you could do as I did and make a lobster and champagne risotto.

https://winervana.com/lobster-and-champagne-risotto/

These wines join other Yatir products, including Yatir Mount Masa Red (which is a best seller), Yatir Rose, Yatir Peti Verdo, and the flagship wine, Yatir Forest.

https://yatirwinery.com/en/

 

Above: Etti Edri [left], Yatir Winery’s export manager
and Israel’s Ambassador Dani Dayan [right] with bottles
of Yatir wines.

 

These wines are “kosher for Passover.”  This certification requires handling and processes unique to these types of wine.

Kosher wine is grape wine produced according to Jewish dietary law (kashrut). To be considered kosher, Sabbath-observant Jews must supervise and sometimes handle the entire winemaking process, from the time the grapes are crushed until the wine is bottled. Any ingredients used, including finings, must be kosher as well. Wine that is described as “kosher for Passover” must have been kept free from contact with chametz, such as grain, bread, and dough.

To ensure the kosher status of the wine it must be overseen by a Jewish authority who supervises the kashrut status of the producer. Generally, this supervisor will physically tip the fruit into the crush and operate the equipment. Once the wine emerges from the process, it can be handled in the normal fashion.

Here’s some more information on kosher wines:

https://winefolly.com/review/myths-facts-kosher-wine/

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Robertson Winery Pinotage and Gewürztraminer

Robertson Winery Pinotage and Gewürztraminer
And Here’s To You, Dr. Robertson

With the lifting of apartheid-era sanctions in the mid-1990s, and especially so in the last decade or so, wines from South Africa have become more evident in the nation’s wine shops.

But, the South Africans are certainly not wine-making neophytes. The first vines were planted in the western Cape by early Dutch settlers in 1655, and Robertson Winery was established in 1941.

Robertson sources fruit from 43 growers cultivating 4700 acres which stretch from the banks of the Breede River to the lower slopes of the Langeberg Mountains. The diverse soils allow Robertson to site their many varietals in optimum growing conditions. After harvest, the winery adheres to a philosophy of minimal handling and gentle processing, in a state-of-the-art cellar that was completed in 2000 to accommodate the growing demand for their wines.

Phanto Ridge Pinotage 2004

Unlike Meritage, Pinotage is a grape, a cross between Pinot Noir and Hermitage. The Phanto Ridge is easy-drinking, garnet-colored, and relatively light on the palette with just a hint of sweetness.

Pair this pleasant wine with grilled (but not too spicy) chicken, fish, or vegetables.

Gewürztraminer 2005

This Gewürz nicely balances its sweetness and acidity. Too sweet to accompany dinner for all but the white zinfandel crowd, this wine would be best after dinner; serve it with mild hard cheeses and just about any fruit.

https://www.robertsonwinery.co.za/wine/natural-sweet-red/

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Amapola Creek Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay

Amapola Creek Cabernet Sauvignon and ChardonnayAfter a legendary career of over 45 years toiling in the vineyards of Sonoma County, Richard Arrowood opened his final winery, Amapola Creek, in 2005. Amapola is Spanish for “poppy,” and the creek that bears the name runs through the estate. When in bloom, the golden poppies line the creek and offer a lovely sight with the vineyards and mountains in the background.

The 100-acre ranch (purchased in 2001) that is home to Amapola Creek is situated on the western slope of the Mayacamas Mountains, which rise between and separate the Sonoma and Napa valleys. Although his wife Alis envisioned the site as the perfect place for a peaceful retirement, Richard had other ideas, and immediately set about selecting the best 20 acres of the property for use as the centerpiece of Amapola Creek Winery.

The mountainside estate vineyards are footed in red-brown volcanic soils, and are California Certified Organic. The winery itself is an “organic handling facility,” reflecting the Arrowoods’ commitment to making wine in the most natural way possible, as well as their “prevention not intervention” philosophy. The solar-powered winery is a small-production, ultra-premium facility with state-of-the-art equipment. To preserve quality, total annual production is just 3,000 cases.

In early December 2019, Richard Arrowood announced his retirement.

https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/northbay/sonomacounty/10427340-181/richard-arrowood-sonoma-wine-business

Amapola Creek Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010

The Rued and Dijon Chardonnay clones that make up this wine were grown by a single farmer, Joseph Belli, a long-time friend and associate of Arrowood’s. The harvest was aged for 10 months in new and old French oak, under malolactic fermentation, and yielded a mere 210 cases.

The nose features aromas of stone fruits such as nectarine and peach, with a hint of flint. Those flavors continue on the palate, along with highly-integrated oak and structural acidity. It’s all wrapped up with an unctious mouthfeel and long finish. Drink this unfined wine now.

Amapola Creek Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

The fruit for this wine came from the high elevation Arrowood estate acreage, which features the aforementioned mineral-rich basaltic volcanic soils, and cooling breezes from San Pablo Bay.

This is the fourth Cabernet released by Amapola. The wine was aged for 24 months in new and seasoned French and American oak. This elegant wine shows excellent harmony and structure. The nose opens with cherries, black fruits, and cassis, plus a suggestion of cedar. The taste features effusive blackberry, plum, and currant. The fruit is offset by a pleasing dustiness, and is accompanied by a mouthfeel of firm acidity over fine tannins. A delicate hint of toasty oak and vanilla displays the true varietal nature of Cabernet Sauvignon.

https://www.amapolacreek.com/

Here’s another look at Amapola Creek:

https://winervana.com/?p=532

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Gordon Brothers Tradition

Gordon Brothers TraditionJeff Gordon (no, not that Jeff Gordon) is a fourth-generation farmer, born and raised in Washington state. Although tied to the land, Gordon realized early on that affection wasn’t enough, and was shrewd enough to take a Bachelor’s degree in Agriculture in 1971.

By 1977, Jeff and his brother Bill were growing potatoes on 130 acres of rented farmland. Several years later, Jeff’s attention to the local microclimate and rich volcanic soil of southeastern Washington’s Columbia Valley led the Gordon family to take the then-audacious step of planting wine grapes on a sagebrush-covered slope overlooking the Snake River. Much to the amusement of local fellow farmers, Jeff made a bold decision to plant red grape varietals. “As far as everyone was concerned, the Columbia Valley was Riesling country. That was all there was to it. We thought red grapes would work. We took a chance. It was the right thing to do.”

Gordon Brothers Tradition 2003

This wine is a blend of 47.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47.6% Merlot, and 4.8% Syrah (all from estate-grown grapes). After pressing and fermentation, the wine aged in oak for a total of 40 months.

Tradition is a jewel-like ruby in the glass. The nose features hints of cinnamon and clove. The velvety mouth-feel is complimented by restrained flavors of dark cherry and chocolate, and moderate tannins.

This very food-friendly wine will pair well with autumnal meats such as roast duckling with soy sauce and cloves, or braised lamb shanks.

 

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River’s Edge and Hinman from Oregon

River’s Edge and Silvan Ridge | Hinman from OregonRiver’s Edge Winery is located in the northern-most part of the Umpqua Valley. River’s Edge, founded in 1998, specializes in the production of cool weather varieties such as pinot noir and gewürztraminer. The ocean is only 36 miles away from the winery, and morning fog frequently shrouds the vineyards even in the summer, reflecting the strong marine influence on the climate.

Their two estate vineyards, Black Oak and Elkton, are the primary sources for the wines. These two vineyards were planted in 1972 and are among the oldest in the state.

The River’s Edge wine making style emphasizes a low-tech, hands-on approach utilizing small batch fermentation, exclusively barrel aging, and bottling without fining.

River’s Edge Pinot Gris 2007

Let me announce my bias up front: I’m not that big a fan of Pinot Gris (pee-no gree) and Pinot Grigio (pee-no gree-joe). They are often watery and lacking a distinct character. Not so this one from River’s Edge.

This pinot gris was vinified in the traditional Alsatian manner in older oak barrels, with seven months of aging. The resulting wine has the pale yellow color, citrus/lemon flavor, and ripe pear bouquet typical of this varietal. The boldness of the flavors make it unique, with plenty of structure.

Enjoy this wine with grilled whole red snapper, broiled halibut steaks with tarragon butter, or raw oysters.

https://www.riversedgewinery.com/

 

Doyle Hinman and David Smith opened Hinman Vineyards in 1979. By 1988, the winery had become Oregon’s top selling winery. In 1993, Hinman started releasing their premium line of reserve wines under the Silvan Ridge label, relegating Hinman to second-tier status.

Silvan Ridge | Hinman Vineyards produces approximately 25,000 cases of wine annually, including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Syrah, Grenache Rosé, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Riesling.

The Hinman winemaking style strives to express classic European technique, while applying new-world innovation.

The fruit for this pinot noir was sourced from the Willamette Valley, which begins just south of Eugene and runs north to Portland. It is Oregon’s coolest growing region and the source for most of the state’s wine grapes. Vineyards are typically located on bench-land hillsides at the western edge of the valley.

Hinman Vineyards Pinot Noir 2007

The color of this pinot noir is like that of cherry juice, and while color is not necessarily a predictor of taste or complexity, this time it’s fairly accurate. This is a simple, fruity wine, with plenty of cherry and berry on the palate. A tad on the sweet side, but with enough acidity to keep things in balance.

Pair this wine with salmon gravlax, risotto with artichokes, or pan-fried soft shell crabs.

https://www.hinmanvineyards.com/

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Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Willow Crest Viognier from Washington

Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Willow Crest Viognier from Washington“This weekend is not about me. It is about you. I’m gonna show you a good time. We’re gonna drink a lot of good wine. We’re gonna play some golf. We’re gonna eat some great food and enjoy the scenery and we are going to send you off in style, mon frere.” And so Miles and Jack set off on their most excellent adventure in Sideways, the 2004 film that by some accounts was single-handedly responsible for a 10% increase in sales of pinot noir.

Leaping Lizard Pinot Noir 2005

This pinot noir hails from the cool and foggy Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, California. The Russian River has long been home to winemakers serious about pinot noir, and Leaping Lizard joined their ranks in 1996.

The winemaker is Harry Parducci Jr. He is yet another quality winemaker to come from a family better known for its jug wines, as some Gallos and Martinis are as well.

This wine is a lovely garnet color. There’s plenty of fruit, dominated by bright cherry and rich strawberry. It’s quite well balanced, though, and definitely dry with good supporting tannins and just a hint of oak.

Planked salmon is a classic pairing with pinot noir. (Yes, reds can be quite delicious with fish, especially richer species such as salmon, tuna, and swordfish.) Roast turkey or duck, fruit-glazed pork chops, and grilled barbeque ribs would work well also.

And now for something completely different: we head north to Washington state, and Willow Crest winery’s Yakima-grown viognier (vee-ohn-yay).

This varietal originated in the Rhone area of France, and continues to be extensively cultivated there. In the ‘90s, California’s so-called Rhone Rangers helped to bring it to attention here in the States.

Like Leaping Lizard, Willow Crest is a relative new-comer. After growing grapes for other winemakers in the Yakima Valley for more than a decade, David Minick realized a long-time dream of producing his own wine when he opened Willow Crest in 1995. Most of Minick’s 185 acres of grapes are sold to other winemakers, but he now also retains a small amount of his annual harvest to craft about 3,000 cases of premium wines in his own style, primarily pinot gris and syrah.

Willow Crest Viognier 2005

Viogniers can range from the highly floral and fragrant to a lighter, more balanced aperitif-style, such as this one. It offers delicate aromas of citrus and pear, with a palate that adds melon and apple to the flavor mix. The wine should be only slightly chilled; otherwise its nuances will be masked. Like most viogniers, this is a limited-production wine.

Excellent with white seafood of all kinds. Try it with scallops, whitefish, or sole in a light butter sauce, or pair it with appetizers.

https://www.willowcrestwinery.com/tasting-rooms/

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Casa Lapostolle

Casa LapostolleBetween the Mountains
and the Deep Blue Sea

If you’re looking for good value in wine, head for the Chilean section of your local wine shop.

Winemaking was established in Chile in the mid-sixteenth century by Spanish missionaries, and for 300 years wine production was based on the Pais grape they carried. In 1851, French wine experts arrived, and with them the more familiar European grape varieties. And now, even with over 400 years of experience, and free of the twin scourges of Prohibition and phylloxera, Chile has yet to attain its full potential.

This promise continues to attract winemakers from around the world. One of the French concerns is the Marnier Lapostolle family, founders and owners of the famous orange liqueur Grand Marnier, as well as other spirits. Lapostolle was established in 1994, with the goal of creating top-quality wines using French expertise and the unique terroirs of Chile.

Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay 2009

The home of this wine is the Atalayas vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, in the Coastal Cordillera, 47 miles west of Santiago. Atalayas was originally planted in 1997, and enjoys cool coastal winds and a low annual rainfall. 100% of Atalayas vineyard is under organic and biodynamic agriculture management.

This is the rare white that will benefit from thirty minutes or so of ‘breathing’ before pouring. While you’re waiting, admire its bright lemon-yellow color and nose of citrus and melon. This wine suggests grapefruit on the palate, which is supported by its zippy acidity. There is oak, but it is well integrated and in a secondary role. Look for a hint of crème brûlée on the finish. Fermentation was on 68% new and used French oak, as well as 32% stainless steel. 20% of the total underwent a further malolactic fermentation.

This wine would go nicely with Braised Snapper and Mussels, Shrimp in a Picante Sauce, or Chicken à la Chinita.

Canto de Apalta 2011

The horseshoe-shaped Apalta vineyard is located 124 miles southwest of Santiago, 42 miles away from the Pacific Ocean, between the Andes mountain range and the Coastal Cordillera. The first vines in Apalta were planted in 1920, and some of these were transplants that had originally been brought from France at the end of the 19th century. Apalta is also 100% under organic and biodynamic management.

“Song of Apalta” is a Bordeaux-style red blend that was born from the relationship between Carmenère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. All fermentations were made with wild yeasts and minimal intervention on the part of the winemaking team.

Here’s a food-friendly wine that is also good for quaffing. It is rich garnet in the glass, with delicate legs. The nose shows spice and eucalyptus, as well as black and red fruits. The body is light in the mouth, with flavors of ripe red berries and figs. These are backed up by medium tannins and a surprising amount of acidity. The wine has a medium-length finish.

Serve with Roast Beef in a Black Pepper Crust, Leg of Lamb with Pistachios, or Lemon Veal Chops.

http://www.colchaguavalley.cl/en/2012/07/lapostolle-presenta-canto-de-apalta/

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Luke Donald Wine

Luke Donald WineThe Donald

No, this month’s wines aren’t associated with Donald Trump (a teetotaler, by the way), but rather, English professional golfer Luke Donald. The Luke Donald Wine Collection is the result of a collaboration between Donald and Bill Terlato, head of the behemoth wine distribution operation, Terlato Wines International.

Terlato first met Donald when the golfer was a student at Northwestern University. Terlato took lessons from Donald’s coach, Pat Goss, who initially suggested the two get together. Along with an interest in golf, the two men shared an interest in sports cars and ultimately, wine.

Golfer-endorsed wines are a growing trend, and already include such players as Ernie Els, Nick Faldo, David Frost, Cristie Kerr, Jack Nicklaus, Greg Norman, and Arnold Palmer. In 2006, Terlato approached Donald with the idea of creating a pair of wines for him under the Luke Donald label. He was adamant, however, that he didn’t want merely a celebrity endorser. Terlato wanted someone who would be involved in the development of the product. The wines that resulted from this partnership are serious wines, rather than a vanity effort (and are priced accordingly).

Chardonnay 2010

This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards in the Carnaros AVA, which lies at the northern end of San Pablo Bay (the northern section of San Francisco Bay).

The wine is pale yellow in the glass. On entry, it offers a full mouthfeel. That buttery sensation continues to develop on the palate, followed by just the right amount of acidity.

For this wine’s flavor profile, Donald looked to the white Burgundies of France. The flavor is predominantly of tart citrus fruits; the wood (25% new French oak, 75% used French oak) is there, but is nicely balanced.

Enjoy this wine with Summer Vegetable Stir-fry with Couscous, Braised Greek Chicken and Artichokes, or Almond-crusted Sole with Leek-and-lemon Cream.

Claret 2009

Befitting Donald’s background, this red wine blend is a Claret. Although “claret” has no legal definition, it is generally a term used by the English when referring to certain red wines of Bordeaux with a light, refreshing style.

This easy-drinking red blend (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 100% Napa Valley) is transparent ruby in color. The taste features wild black berries and subtle spice notes. This is supported by well-integrated tannins.

This Claret would go well with Chicken Simmered with Cream and Onions, Roast Duck with Cherries, or Braised Ham with Mushroom Stuffing.

These wines are limited production, each limited to less than 1000 cases, but are well worth seeking out.

https://www.golferswines.com/golfer/luke-donald

 

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Cline Cellars

Cline CellarsYes, We Have No Cabernet

As you enter Sonoma county from the south on California 121, one of the first wineries you encounter is Cline Cellars, and there could hardly be a better introduction to the Carneros AVA.

Even as a young teenager, Fred Cline learned to make wine from his grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi (yes, he of the hydrotherapy tub, as well as many other innovations). With a $9000 inheritance from Valeriano, in 1981 Cline founded the eponymous Cline Cellars in Oakley, California.

The winery was relocated to its current location in 1991. The property is the original site of the Mission San Francisco de Solano, the 21st and final of the historic California missions. Although the mission was moved in 1823, the Cline tasting room is located in a rustic 1850s farmhouse that is original to the property, surrounded by spring-fed ponds and thousands of rose bushes. The vineyards also reflect this history, with vines ranging from 80 to 120 years old.
Cline is one of the first of the pioneering Rhone Rangers, a group dedicated to wines from the grapes of the Côtes du Rhône in France (ironic for a boy with an Italian grandfather, no?)

Cline also has been a pioneer in sustainable farming. It is the second-largest completely solar-powered winery in California. Natural cover crops are used to nourish the soils, sheep and goats roam freely as they graze on weeds, and compost teas are used as fertilizer. “We’d be considered ‘organic’ if we wanted to follow the rules of the government,“ said Cline. “We are actually more sustainable [than the law calls for] by not following their organic rules.“ He calls his methods “beyond organic.”

Viognier 2017

Ah, Viognier [vee-oh-NYAY], such an elusive and underappreciated wine. The grapes are finicky to grow, and once vinified exhibit a wide range of floral qualities, some more delightful than others.

This expression is pale reddish-golden in the glass, with a BAM! nose of honeysuckle. This is followed on the palate by the expected flavor of peach, as well as mango and sour orange. This unoaked wine tastes dry, but has a surprising, slightly sweet finish. To enjoy its nuance, do not overchill.

Drink this tipple with braised tuna in white wine, oven-braised halibut steaks, or Provençal seafood with aioli.

Heritage Zinfandel 2015

The provenance of this Zin are the 100-year-old Big Break, Live Oak, and Bridgehead vines in Oakley, which are dry-farmed in deep, sandy soil. It is crystal ruby in the glass. Flavors of cola, blueberry, and coffee greet you on the tongue. There is just a hint of Zinfandel’s characteristic pepper. The body has a nice satin quality, supported by nicely balanced medium tannins and acidity. An eminently drinkable wine.

Enjoy this red with braised pork with sweet and hot peppers, Niçoise chicken with tomatoes and black olives, or lamb with artichokes.

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Portugese Red Table Wine

Portugese Red Table WineIn the 1970s, Portugese rosés such as Lancers and Mateus were the height of sophistication to many young wine drinkers: “It’s imported, and comes in a fun bottle!” With age comes wisdom, and these wines were eventually abandoned for the justifiably famous fortified wines of Portugal, Port and Madeira, produced by many ancient and famous houses.

Much less well-known is Portugal’s status as a producer of both red and white table wine, ranking in the world’s top ten in production.  With a population of just 10 million, but top five in per capita consumption, much of that wine is sipped by the thirsty Portuguese.

Continue reading “Portugese Red Table Wine”

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Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon and ChardonnayAn American in Paris

Steven Spurrier is an Englishman who once owned a wine shop in Paris that catered to the English-speaking expatriate community. In 1976, in order to drum up interest in his business, he hit upon the idea of holding a blind tasting pitting ten of France’s and California’s best producers against one another. He was able to enlist nine esteemed French wine experts as judges, among them Odette Kahn, editor of the influential Revue du Vin de France; and Christian Vannequé, sommelier of the three-star Parisian restaurant La Tour d’Argent. The French wines included the 1970 Haut-Brion, the 1970 Mouton Rothschild, and the 1973 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles.

The famous tasting, held May 24, 1976, at Paris’ InterContinental Hotel, has come to be known as The Judgement of Paris. Neither Spurrier, a Francophile to the core, nor anyone else expected the upstart Yanks to really put up a fight against the French heavyweights. However, when the votes were tallied, the judges were shocked to discover they had awarded the top prize for the red to the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, and top prize for the white to Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, both from Napa Valley. It was the shock heard ‘round the world, and legitimized California as a world-class wine-making region.

George M. Taber, the Time magazine correspondent present at the time, details the event in Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine. The story was also dramatized in the 2008 film Bottle Shock.

Thirty years later, in May of 2006, as a celebration of the original Judgement, the same wines were retasted to gauge their aging potential. The French were confident that here the weak Californians would stumble. Instead, mon dieu, they placed first through fifth. Boo Ya!

Chateau Montelena has seen three cycles of family stewardship. The first began in 1882 when the winery was founded by Alfred L. Tubbs, a European immigrant and San Fransciso entrepreneur. The original property was 254 acres of rugged, well drained, stony, and loose land just two miles north of Calistoga at the base of Mount Saint Helena. (Montelena is a contracted form of Mount Saint Helena.) By 1896 Tubbs’ winery was the seventh largest in the Napa Valley.

The Tubbs family sold the winery in 1958, at which time the Chateau and its overgrown grounds passed into the hands of Yort and Jeanie Frank, who were looking for a peaceful spot to retire. The setting inspired Frank to excavate a lake and add landscaping to reflect the Chinese gardens of his homeland.

The modern renaissance of Chateau Montelena started under the leadership of Jim Barrett, who purchased the winery in 1972. The vineyard was cleared and replanted, and the winery was renovated and outfitted with modern winemaking equipment, complemented by the highest-quality grapes from the Napa Valley. In 1972 wines were made for the first time, and shortly thereafter Chateau Montelena stunned the wine world with its win at the 1976 Paris Tasting. The winery continues today with Jim Barrett at the helm.

Napa Valley Chardonnay 2008

This Chardonnay started by being harvested at night in order to preserve delicate flavors and aromas. The wine is brilliantly clear with a golden-straw color. The nose suggests pear and tropical passion fruit. On the palate, there are flavors of juicy peach, citrus notes of pink grapefruit, honey tangerine, and starfruit, conveyed by an appealing softness. The mid-palate features an understated, nutty, oak tone which segues into an interesting long and spicy finish. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% French barrels, 11% of which were new.

Serve this legendary wine with Morroccan Lemon Chicken, Sea Bass with Gingered Broth, Risotto with Scallops, or, if your dinner guests are French, Crow.

Napa Valley Cabernet 2006

Although famous for their Chardonnay, Montelena makes a number of reds as well, including this Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc.

Dark ruby in color, this wine offers rich, complex aromas of ripe dark cherry, plum, cinnamon, and tobacco, with top notes of earth and forest floor. In the mouth, this wine makes a full soft round entry, after which the acid builds nicely, supporting the dominant flavor of black currant, plus licorice and spice. Plenty of fine-grain tannin completes the mouthfeel. Nice notes of toasted oak round out the tremendous long finish. This is a very well-balanced wine that will age for ten to twelve years, if you have the patience.

Pair this Cabernet with Tenderloin of Beef with Blue Cheese, Cider-Braised Pork Medallions, or Broiled Lamb Chops.

https://montelena.com/

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Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2016 and a Salmon Souffle

Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2016A Christmas Souffle

There are few things as elegant, or as easy to make, as a souffle.  My stepdaughter and her partner dropped by for Christmas, and he mentioned that, even though he is 45, he had never had a savory souffle, much less made one.  I assured him it was really simple, so I whipped up one with salmon.  The recipe is below if you want to make one as well.  But first, the wine.

Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2016

This wine pours a jewel-like ruby red into the glass.   The nose greets you with aromas of vanilla and ripe red cherries.   Those cherries come forward on the palate, along with hints of cinnamon and clove.  There is harmonious balance between the oak, acid, and tannins.  It’s all rounded out by a nice medium finish.  it paired quite nicely with:

Salmon Souffle 2019

I first learned to make souffles from The New York Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne, and that was the starting place for this one.

3 Tbl butter
3 Tbl flour
4 oz. sliced mushrooms
1 C milk or half and half
4 eggs, separated
Salt and  dry mustard to taste
2 Tbl teriyaki sauce
14 oz. can salmon

Preheat oven to 375 deg. F.

1.  Melt the butter in a saucepan and saute the mushrooms until lightly browned.
3.  Stir in the flour and blend with a wire whisk.  Meanwhile, drain the salmon into a 1 cup measure.  Add enough milk to come to 1 cup.  Bring the milk to a boil, and add all at once to the butter-flour mixture (aka a roux), stirring with the whisk until thickened and smooth.  Let cool.
3.  Beat in, one at at time, the four egg yolks.  Season with salt, mustard, and teriyaki sauce.
4. Flake the salmon, and blend well into the white sauce and egg mixture.
5.  Using a rotary beater or an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they stand in peaks.  Do not over beat.  Fold the whites gently into the salmon mixture with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, being careful not to overblend.
6.  Pour into a 1-1/2 quart souffle dish, which may be greased or ungreased.  Place in oven and bake thirty to forty minutes.  Serve with Hollandaise sauce.

https://www.clospegase.com/

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Dry Creek Vineyard

Dry Creek VineyardUp On Dry Creek

Dry Creek Vineyard founder David Stare arrived in Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, California, in 1972, opening the first winery there since Prohibition. Years of neglect of the valley’s acreage had convinced locals that Dry Creek was no longer suitable for grape growing.

But Stare was undeterred. He had decided to fashion his wines by following the traditions, standards, and styles of the Loire Valley in France after extensive travels and tastings in the region.

In short order, Stare had overturned the conventional wisdom. The winery debuted with a characteristic Fumé Blanc (made with the Sauvignon Blanc grape), which met with immediate success and remains Dry Creek’s signature wine.

Dry Creek has since extensively diversified into reds as well as other whites, championing Zinfandel and Bordeaux blending techniques.

Dry Creek Fumé Blanc 2007

This refreshing unoaked Fumé Blanc is pefect for when the weather turns nice. The dominant citrus notes are joined by green melon and just a hint of grass. Mineral and spice notes also emerge and linger to the very last.

Dry Creek Merlot 2005

This nicely balanced Merlot features flavors of ripe blackberry and currant, supported by a hint of vanilla. There is just enough oak and tannins to restrain the fruit and give it structure. The wine finishes relatively soft and with moderate length. The merlot in this Bordeaux-like blend is augmented by smaller quantities of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and malbec.

For a look at Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay:

https://winervana.com/dry-creek-vineyard-2/

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A Pinot Blanc and a Montepulciano

Wine by Joe
Pinot Blanc 2005

Joe Dobbes is a native of Oregon, born in the Willamette Valley. Dobbes has been making wine for others in Oregon for over twenty years, and in 2003 he started Wine by Joe as a consulting and crushing company. In 2004, Joe expanded it into a complete winery, and he added the title of winemaker. He has since passed that to Travis Procter, Director of Winemaking Operations.

The 214-acre vineyard, in the Eola Hills / Amity AVA, gets cool coastal breezes from the Pacific ocean, 45 miles to the west. Pinot Blanc was planted in 1989 under previous owners.

If you like your whites subtle and unassuming, this one’s for you. The color in the glass is pale, almost to the point of colorless. The taste features hints of pears, peaches, and a bit of smokiness (no wood, though), supported by a crisp talc-flinty acidity. The finish is short.

Feature this wine at brunch with sea bass and roasted bell pepper, baked cod with tarragon, or almond-crusted sole.

https://www.winebyjoe.com/

Barba Colle Morino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005

The Fratelli [Brothers] Barba winery, completed in 1991, is in Scerne di Pineto, at the foot of the Colle Morino hills. This relatively young winery prides itself on using the latest technology and equipment, especially after a major renovation in 2005.

This Montepulciano is nicely rustic. It was fermented for about ten days in conical oak vats, and then aged in the winery’s air-conditioned cellars.
The fruit is there (primarily stone fruits like cherry and plum), but in the old world, slightly under ripe, style. Structure comes from a robust punch of tannins, particularly evident after an hour and a half or so of breathing. The initial taste is surprisingly “hot,” even with a respectable alcohol level of 13%.
During summer, scrape off that grill and pair this Montepulciano with black pepper / ancho beef filets, barbequed porterhouse steaks, beer-simmered bratwurst with grilled onions and ‘kraut, or lamb chops with fresh thyme and grilled lemons.

http://www.fratellibarba.it/en/the-barba-vineyards-and-winery/

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