Fifty-seven years ago, in 1962, Dan Gainey purchased 1800 acres in the Santa Ynez valley of California’s central coast region, directly west of Santa Barbara. After twenty-two years of farming and ranching, Gainey became convinced of the area’s potential [and profitability] as a vineyard.
After the Gaineys (three Dans are currently involved) opened their Spanish-style winery in 1984, the winery quickly became one of the most popular wineries to visit in the area, and it was named as “one of the best wineries to visit on California’s Central Coast” by Wine Spectator magazine.
Gainey Vineyard owns properties in both the warm, eastern end of the valley, where they concentrate on Bordeaux varieties, and the cool, western end of the valley, where they have planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.
Gainey Merlot 2004
This muscular but lush Merlot features blackberry and cassis on the palate, supported by hints of oak, tobacco, and leather. Velvety mouthfeel, supple tannins, and a long finish round out this attractive wine.
Pair this expressive, cool-climate Merlot with grilled or rotisserie chicken, pork tenderloin, or simply prepared-beef dishes.
Gainey Riesling 2007
Gainey specializes in Riesling, and this wine shows why. If you normally avoid Rieslings, try this one. It is pale gold, completely dry, and has medium acidity. The traditional apricot and pear flavors are present, but the flowery overtones are held well in the background.
In this post I sample two uncommon wines that only have one thing in common: they both come from Australia’s McLaren Vale.
Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz 2002
Some say that if the light of the moon is just right, the ghost of Cockfighter the horse can be seen galloping through the vineyards of Pooles Rock.
Perhaps. The wine named in his memory is anything but ephemeral, however. Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz first greets you with a powerful nose of earth and dark berry fruit. The berry and black plum flavors continue on the palate, supported by some spice, black pepper, and oak. The color is a dense, dark crimson.
After letting this shiraz ‘breathe’ for at least an hour to soften its edges, serve with rare roast beef and field mushrooms, spicy sausages with tomatoes and Italian beans, or oven-roasted rack of lamb.
This chardonnay is an excellent value, with more character than its relatively low price would predict.
The wine spent nine months on-lees in new French oak, and features a very appealing balance of juicy stone fruit and a citrus acidity, supported by the spicy, toasty oak, with a moderately long finish. There was no malo-lactic fermentation. The color is pale straw with green tints.
Serve lightly chilled with coquille St. Jacques, fried calamari, or grilled whole red snapper.
[Unfortunately, Tapestry Wines is now reported closed.}
Historically, ‘shellback’ was a title bestowed on mariners who crossed the equator, a risk-filled achievement in the days of wooden ships under sail.
There’s no risk in this Shellback rum, part of E&J Gallo’s foray into the liquor category. To produce this offering, they have partnered with West Indies Rum Distillery, which has been making the spirit since 1893 on the island of Barbados, the birthplace of rum.
Both Shellbacks are a blend of neutral and heavy unaged rum distilled with a mix of continuous and pot stills.
Shellback Silver features a suggestion of vanilla and tropical fruit. It has a distinct sweetness, a silky mouthfeel, and a medium finish. Shellback Spiced builds on that vanilla-accented base with the addition of cinnamon, ginger, clove, nutmeg, cassia, and allspice. The Spiced is then aged for a minimum of 12 months in used-once bourbon barrels, for a rounder mouthfeel and lingering finish.
Good on the rocks, Shellback rum also works well as the key ingredient in rum-based cocktails, such as a Mojito or Daiquiri.
Both of these rums are 40% ABV and are widely available.
Thanksgiving is next week, and these two wines would be very appropriate for the holiday feast (Christmas and Hanukkah, too!)
Maison M. Chapoutier is a winery and négociant business located in Tain-l’Hermitage in the Rhône region in southeastern France. (Négociant is the French term for a wine merchant who assembles the produce of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result under its own name.) Chapoutier produces wine from appellations across the Rhône region, in a wide spectrum of varietals, styles, and price points. The house has holdings in Portugal and Australia, as well.
Polydor Chapoutier established the business in 1879, and it has remained family-owned ever since. Yet despite its long history, by the late 1970s the winery was languishing, the wines weren’t selling, and the firm was in danger of bankruptcy.
In 1990, at age 26, Michel Chapoutier took control, after studying oenology in both France and California. In the intervening years he has transformed the winery into one of the leading Rhône Valley producers. He combines the traditional and the modern, being an early advocate of organic and biodynamic winemaking. He pruned back the vineyards and boldly reduced yields from 2.6 tons per acre to 1.8 tons per acre for both red and white wines. Industrial chemicals, fertilizers, and sprays were eliminated. Grapes are now harvested by hand and only natural yeasts are used to produce unfiltered wines.
Critic Robert Parker has called Chapoutier “one of the most influential wine personalities of the last 20 years.”
Chapoutier’s wine labels are distinctive because of their inclusion of Braille writing on all labels since 1996. The information presented in Braille includes the producer, the vintage, the vineyard, the region, and the color of the wine.
Belleruche Rosé 2012
This wine is a fruit-forward blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, with a brilliant copper-salmon color. The nose is predominantly aromas of strawberries. On the palette, expect hints of cream soda and grapefruit (yeah, it does work). There is plenty of zippy acidity, as well.
Give this wine a try with a Tomato and Onion Tart, Smoked Shellfish Quesadillas with Fresh Corn Salsa, or Shrimp Kabobs with Lemons and Bay Leaves.
Belleruche Rouge 2011
Like most European wines, this lean, fruit-recessive selection is ‘food’ wine, made to drink at the dinner table, not with a pre-meal chat.
Belleruche Rouge is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, and was fermented and aged in vats. It is dark garnet red in the glass, with a subtle nose where no dominant aroma jumps out. The palette has an earthy quality, and features tastes of Morello cherries and black tea. The tannins offer plenty of support, but the finish is rather short.
Enjoy this wine with Wild Mushroom Soup with Blue Cheese Toasts, Beef Stew with Turnips, or Cassoulet.
Dakota Shy was founded by industry veterans Todd Newman and Tom Garrett in 2008, determined to ultimately create a world-class estate of their own. They began by sourcing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from a range of vineyards throughout Napa Valley.
Dakota Shy purchased its estate in 2014. It dates back to the 1850s, when George Yount took possession via the Spanish Land Grant. Along side the vines, there are 1.2 acres of Italian and Spanish olives from which Dakota Shy presses their own oil.
In addition to the estate, Dakota Shy continues to source grapes from all over Napa Valley. These sites offer unique and varied characteristics that Dakota Shy relies on in the creation of their Cabernets.
This wine opens with notes of stone and spice on the nose. Flavors of grass, oak, dried cherry, cocoa and minerals follow. The medium body is supported by well integrated oak and tannin. Decant for three to four hours before serving. Available only by allocation.
Every once in awhile I like to take a a wee nip of Scotch whiskey just as variety from the grape. So when I received word of this single malt, it seemed like an opportune time to tickle the taste buds. The Singleton of Glendullan is the object of interest here, and a fine example of Scotland’s most famous region for single malts, Speyside.
The Glendullan distillery was founded in Dufftown, Speyside in 1897, and the distillery receives its pure waters from the River Dullian, a tributary of the Spey River. The whiskey is matured for 12 years in used oak casks from both American bourbon and European sherry. The combination creates a well-balanced, rich tasting malt that can be enjoyed as a cocktail before dinner or as an after dinner treat. It has a semi-crisp taste that is refreshing and even zingy without being overpowering, an excellent choice for those not yet ready to try some of the heavier Scotch offerings.
Although I’m not much interested in numerical ratings here at Winervana, they certainly do exist elsewhere. In a blind tasting conducted by the Beverage Tasting Institute, The Singleton scored a 92-point rating. They rank that as “exceptional,” and The Singleton outscored traditional category leaders such as Macallan 12 (90 rating), Glenlivet 12( 88), and Glenfiddich 12 (86), for what it’s worth.
Is this really the best corkscrew? With hundreds of devices on amazon alone for opening wine bottles, some costing hundreds of dollars, I realize this is a bold claim. But yes. For the money, the Le Creuset Wine Opener simply can’t be beat. It’s dead-simple to use, and works correctly every time. The Teflon-coated worm pierces the cork with ease, and simply continuing to turn the handle then extracts it smoothly.
This corkscrew was originated by Hallen International Inc., and sold for years under the Screwpull trademark. In 1991, Le Creuset acquired the Screwpull line, but didn’t rebrand it until the early ‘teens. Le Creuset makes a number of other corkscrews, including a cheaper model that resembles this one. Although it operates on the same principle, it is flimsier, prone to breakage, and gets mixed reviews on Amazon.
Although nothing lasts forever, in 30 years I’ve only owned three copies of this Le Creuset Wine Opener, one of which was broken by a rowdy party guest.
It’s pizza night, and that means homemade deep dish. Sorry DD haters, but that’s the way I roll. I paired up this hearty pie featuring Italian sausage, bell peppers, and onions with a 2018 La Fea Selección Especial Tinto Rojo. This is a fresh and bright tempranillo/garnacha blend from northeast Spain’s Cariñena region. It is named after the unfortunate nickname whispered behind the back of Queen Isabela; La Fea translates as “the ugly one.” But it pours a lovely dark cherry hue in the glass. There is a lively nose of dark fruit, with aromas of raspberry, black cherry, and violet on the palate. 40% Tempranillo, 40% Garnacha, 20% Syrah.
If you’d like to make this pizza, here’s how. Start about four hours before you plan to eat.
This California-style dough is from James McNair’s excellent New Pizza. There’s a link to the book at the end of this post.
1 cup water at 110 degrees F 2-1/4 tsp instant rise yeast 3-1/4 cup all purpose or bread flour 1 tsp salt 1/4 cup olive oil Optional: 2 tsp garlic powder and/or 1 Tbs Italian seasoning
Mix the olive oil into the flour, then add the remaining ingredients. Then knead by hand, stand mixer, food processor, or bread machine. Time and technique will vary, so I’ll leave that up to you. Lightly coat the dough with spray oil, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled.
1 Tbs olive oil 1 lb. hot and/or mild Italian sausage 2 cans of anchovies (trust me on this) 1 large onion, chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 1 poblano pepper, chopped 2 cups marinara or pizza sauce, homemade or store bought 1/2 cup green and/or black olives 6 oz. tomato paste Optional: 8 oz. mushrooms, chopped 3 to 4 tsp Worchestershire sauce 1 Tbs dried oregano 3/4 cup chopped fresh basil 10 – 12 oz. mozzarella or (even better) fontina, coarsely grated salt and pepper to taste
In a large saucepan, add the tablespoon of olive oil and saute the sausage. When lightly browned, transfer to a bowl. Add the anchovies with their oil to the saucepan. Once the oil has reheated, add all of the vegetables and cook until tender, five to eight minutes. Add the cooked sausage, 2 cups of sauce, tomato paste, oregano, and Worchestershire sauce. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce heat as low as you can, and simmer uncovered for at least an hour, stirring occasionally.
About an hour and a half before you want to eat, heat oven to 450 degrees F. Thirty minutes after starting the oven, punch down the dough and add to the pan. I used a 12″ deep dish pan, but this would also work with two 9″ cake pans or a 16″ pizza screen. (For the deep dish, I like to fold the crust in and over for the last step after the filling has been added.) Brush the dough with olive oil and set aside. It will rise some more, intentionally.
After an hour of preheating the oven, cover the dough with the sauce (it should be off the heat for at least 15 minutes prior), the basil, and the cheese, in that order. Bake a flat pie for about 15 minutes, but check the crust for browning after 10. Bake the deep dish for 30 minutes, assess, and go another 10 minutes if necessary. Remove pizza from oven, rest for five minutes on a wire rack, and serve. Will serve six to eight.
If you make this pizza, let me know how it went. Click on the post title to access the comments section.
The Stags Leap District AVA is in the very heart of Napa Valley. It runs from north to south for about three miles along the Silverado Trail, and its 1,350 [very prized] acres were first planted with Cabernet Sauvignon in 1961, for which it would soon become renowned. The name comes from an outcropping of red rocks at the area’s eastern boundary, where a stag supposedly escaped his pursuers by leaping across the treacherous gap.
The Stags Leap District’s reputation was assured in 1976, when the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellar’s S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon won the famous (some would say infamous) “Judgement of Paris” International Wine Competition, besting the likes of First Growths Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion. This now-legendary growing region received AVA [American Viticultural Area] status in 1989.
Situated at the far southern end of Stags Leap, the Chimney Rock estate was started on a 180-acre parcel (which originally included a golf course, but that was turned over to vines long ago). Initially, 59 acres were planted with a combination of red and white grapes, and the first vintage of Chimney Rock estate wines was produced in 1989. In the mid-1990s, after a phylloxera infestation necessitated the replanting of the entire property, only red Bordeaux-variety grapes were used in recognition of the unique characteristics and potential of the Stags Leap District.
In 2004, the Terlato Family empire acquired sole ownership of Chimney Rock, and they have diligently worked to steadily improve this already excellent winery.
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2008
Seeing the very pale straw color of this wine in the glass you might think, “well, this is a lightweight.” But, you would be wrong. There is much to like in this unusual blend of Sauvignon Blanc [70%] and the rarely used Sauvignon Gris [30%]. The nose shows aromas of mango, pineapple, and vanilla, and there is a hint of coconut on the finish. Even so, this wine is strictly dry, with a full, rich mouthfeel. The fruit is nicely balanced with the proper amount of acidity.
Pair Elevage Blanc with Quail Stuffed with Ricotta, Bacon, and Greens, or Soft-Shell Crabs with Vegetable Slaw.
Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
I strive to be coolly unbiased in this blog, but I have to be honest: this is one of my all-time favorite wines. The color is deep garnet red. The bouquet features black currant and vanilla. Although a classic Big Cab (with support from Merlot and Cabernet Franc), this wine is completely approachable. The dark fruit flavors are supported by smooth tannins and just the right amount of acidity for balance and liveliness. Aging was 18 months in 50/50 new/used French oak. 100% sourced from the Stags Leap District, this wine will easily cellar for ten years; ten days is more like it in mine. And although expensive, this Chimney Rock will easily compete with Cabernet Sauvignons costing twice as much.
Serve with Filets of Beef Stuffed with Roast Garlic and Herbs, or Goat Cheese-Stuffed Roasted Chicken.
If you have a Food Saver vacuum sealing machine, these bottle stoppers are indispensable. They work on the same principle as the better known Vacu Vin sealing system, but are far more effective.
Many people, including some servers themselves, are intimidated or bewildered by so-called waiter’s corkscrews. That’s too bad, because once mastered they can be highly portable and simple to use.
One such corkscrew is the Ratchet Corkscrew from Cork Pops. It is it is nicely designed and built like a tank. Perhaps too much so, because it limits its portability. Unfortunately, the ratchet mechanism is more of a gimmick than a useful feature, and makes the corkscrew more complicated than it needs to be (although it could be handy for wine drinkers with limited hand mobility and strength).
Since its founding in 1974 by Damaris Deere Ford, great-great granddaughter of John Deere, Landmark Vineyards has called Sonoma County home. Originally located in Windsor, California, in 1989 Landmark moved to the heart of Sonoma valley to escape the encroaching urbanization to the north.
In 1991, Landmark decided to focus primarily on Chardonnay. This effort was reinforced in 1993 when they retained the highly-regarded winemaker and consulting enologist Helen Turley, who has also worked for wineries such as Pahlmeyer, Bryant Family Vineyard, Colgin, and Blankiet. Turley is credited for being one of the first people in the early 1990s to see Sonoma’s potential for world-class wines, particularly Chardonnay. The work came together nicely in 1997, when Landmark’s 1995 Overlook Chardonnay landed a spot on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 List, the first of seven such appearances.
Landmark sources its Chardonnay fruit from a variety of growers in Sonoma valley, allowing them to take advantage of a dozen microclimates and growing conditions. Landmark also maintains a modest 11-acre organically-farmed estate vineyard, planted to traditional Chateauneuf du Pape varietals—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Viognier.
Overlook Chardonnay 2010
After harvest and pressing, the juice for this wine is racked into French oak barrels. There, indigenous yeasts carry out the primary fermentation. This traditional practice allows a medley of yeast species to each contribute its own unique flavor components to the wine. Next comes a second malo-lactic fermentation. The wine then spends eight to ten months in barrel sur lees, after which it is finally blended.
In the glass, this wine is a pale gold tinged with green. The nose offers aromas of grapefruit and preserved lemon. The citrus theme continues on the palate, abetted by good acidity and just enough oak to temper and mellow the flavors.
Serve this up with Chicken Breasts with Artichokes and Mustard Sauce, or Sea Bass with Gingered Broth.
Grand Detour Pinot Noir 2010
This Pinot Noir shows that Landmark has a way with reds as well as whites. Grand Detour is sourced from five vineyards in the cool-climate Sonoma Coast appellation. The climate of this region allows the wine to mature at a leisurely pace to improve structure and develop tannins.
This wine is medium brick in color, with a nose of wild strawberries and plums. The taste follows through with plum and other stone fruits. There is plenty of body (especially for a pinot noir) supported by tart tannins.
Salmon en Papillote would be a classic pairing with this wine. Also consider Veal Scallopine with Lemon and Capers or Roasted Pork Loin with Apricot-Armagnac Compote.
Founded in 2006, Matchbook Wine is owned and operated by a trio of proprietors with an impressive resumé in the wine business.
John Giguiere, with his wife Lane and brother Karl, started R.H. Phillips Winery in 1983 on land that was part of their family farm in the Dunnigan Hills of northwestern Yolo County, 30 miles east of the more-famous Napa. Over the course of 20 years, the Giguieres grew R.H. Phillips from a family winery of 10 acres and a few cases into a publicly-owned behemoth producing 900,000 cases of wine on 2500 acres, including the best-selling Toasted Head and EXP as well as R.H. Phillips.
When John and Lane left the company in 2005 to return to more-personalized winemaking, they were joined by Dan Cederquiest to found Crew Wine Company, which produces a variety of wines under the Matchbook, Mossback, Chasing Venus, and Sawbuck labels. Cederquiest had an auspicious start at Stag’s Leap in 1987, and then moved to De Loach in 1993, where he tripled output.
Old Head Chardonnay 2009
This wine is a blend of 91% Chardonnay from Dunnigan Hills, with the balance from the Russian River Valley. It was night-harvested to retain freshness, and barrel-fermented in two- to five-year-old used barrels, the “old heads” of the wine’s name.
Eschewing the heavier oaky/buttery style, this Chardonnay is pale yellow in the glass, and features a delicate nose and velvety mouthfeel. On the palate, there are flavors of baked banana and vanilla with a hint of sweetness, balanced by stone fruit and a crisp, mineral finish.
Serve this wine with Grilled Shrimp with Pineapple Salsa, Cayenne-spiked Crab Cakes, or Baked Trout with Mushrooms.
Tempranillo 2008
Tempranillo [tem-prah-NEE-yoh] is an important grape in Spain, and is widely planted in the northern and central parts of that country. In those areas, Tempranillo is characterized by flavors of strawberry, spice, fresh tobacco, and low acidity.
Matchbook’s unusual (for California) vines are from cuttings imported from the Pesquera region of Spain, and, like the Chardonnay, are planted in Dunnigan Hills. While suggestions of the traditional earthy and spicy flavors are evident from the old-world varietals, the wine shows its California home in the aromas of raspberry, vanilla, and a hint of dried black cherries. The flavors of rich red berries are complemented by low oak, moderate tannins, and medium acidity. The finish is short. The color in the glass is a slightly translucent, deep garnet. There is no need to cellar this very food-friendly wine; enjoy it with dinner tonight.
A few good food pairings would be Grilled Ham and Gouda Sandwiches with Caramelized Onions, Duck Sausage Pizza with Green Onions and Tomato, or Tortellini with Mushroom Carbonara Sauce.
This eponymous winery was founded by Richard and Alis Arrowood, the culmination of what up until then had been twenty-one years of winemaking.
Born in San Francisco and raised in Santa Rosa, Arrowood started his winemaking career in 1965 at Korbel Champagne Cellars, after earning a degree in organic chemistry at California State University, Sacramento and completing graduate work in enology at California State University, Fresno.
From Korbel he moved on, first to United Vintners, then Sonoma Vineyards, and in 1974 was chosen by the founders of Chateau St. Jean Winery to become their first employee and winemaker.
Arrowood Winery opened in 1986 while he was still at Chateau St. Jean, and for the first three years Alis ran the winery as Richard fulfilled his obligations at Chateau St. Jean. In April 1990 Richard joined Alis to devote himself full-time to Arrowood Winery.
Arrowood is located just ouside of Glen Ellen, California, in Sonoma County, and sources all of its grapes from the county’s diverse viticultural areas, such as Russian River Valley, Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys, and Sonoma-Carneros. Sonoma has some of the most varied and complex terroir in the world, with soils that include marine deposits, clay, loam, and volcanic rock.This unusual variety allows a skilled winemaker to match the grape variety he is working with to the most appropiate soil.
Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
Sourced primarily from organic or sustainably-farmed vineyards on the western slopes of the Mayacama Mountain Range, this deep, dense Cabernet opens on the nose with vanilla, earth, and toast. The flavor is intense but wonderfully balanced, featuring plum, cassis, currant, and a hint of unsweetened cocoa, all supported by nicely integrated tannins. The wine is certainly drinkable now in its youthful exuberance, and should cellar well for ten more years, also. Pair this excellent Cabernet with Beef Tenderloin with Bordelaise Sauce, Steak Diane, or Pork Chops with Onion Marmalade. If you can afford it, buy it by the case.
Sonoma County Chardonnay
This Chardonnay is another balanced and harmonious wine, with an elegant structure and body. The color is quite pale, but the mouthfeel is pleasingly unctious. The taste is crisp and fresh, with notes of apple, peach, and just a hint of sweetness. There is plenty of oak, too, from nine months in French barrels; sadly, this is becoming ever less common. Serve this with Seared Salmon with Balsamic Glaze, Mussels with Garlic and White Wine, or Paprika Chicken.
Although Napa Valley is considered by many to be California’s preeminent winemaking region, Sonoma County just to the north offers many pleasures as well, particularly the wines from Alexander Valley, which is one of my personal favorites.
The Simi brothers immigrated from Tuscany, Italy, to California during the Gold Rush of 1876. They soon discovered the rolling hills of Sonoma County near San Francisco, which reminded them of home. In 1881 they established their winemaking operations in Healdsburg, where they completed construction of Simi’s first stone cellar in 1890. The winery has been in continuous operation ever since, giving it the distinction as California’s oldest.
Early success led to doubling the size of the winery by 1904, and it continued to grow until the disaster of Prohibition in 1920. Forbidden to sell their wine, Simi continued to make and store wine for the 15 years that Prohibition lasted. (They were able to sell “sacramental” wine during this time, which provided a much-needed income to barely keep the winery in operation.)
With Repeal in 1933, Simi was ready with a large supply of perfectly cellared wine to sell, and with their survival we are able to enjoy their products today.
Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
If you are a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Simi Alexander Valley is an excellent choice for everyday drinking (the $26 list price is often discounted).
Simi sources the grapes for this wine from the nearly 600 acres they own devoted to red wine production. The diverse soils of these vineyards are a result of eons of geologic activity, including a catastrophic landslide which changed the course of the Russian River.
The color is the usual dense, dark red purple. The nose offers blackberry, cassis, and plum. It serves up ripe black cherry and blackberry on the tongue. This Cabernet is medium-bodied, with moderate tannins and a touch of vanilla and oak for structure. The wine shows good legs, and the 13.5% alcohol level is right in line with current winemaking style.
Enjoy this Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled skirt steak sandwiches on rye with horseradish mayonnaise, roast prime rib au poivre, and grilled Tuscan pork rib roast with rosemary coating and red bell pepper relish.
Simi Sonoma County Chardonnay 2007
This very pale gold Chardonnay features nicely balanced notes of lemon and citrus paired with a crisp, lively acidity. The nose is ripe melon and slight white peach. The fruit flavors are supported by an unassuming oak floor.
Pair this creamy smooth wine with richer foods such as baked salmon filled with mascarpone spinach, baked cod with tarragon butter, or pork sauté with caramelized pears.