Casa Lapostolle

Casa LapostolleBetween the Mountains
and the Deep Blue Sea

If you’re looking for good value in wine, head for the Chilean section of your local wine shop.

Winemaking was established in Chile in the mid-sixteenth century by Spanish missionaries, and for 300 years wine production was based on the Pais grape they carried. In 1851, French wine experts arrived, and with them the more familiar European grape varieties. And now, even with over 400 years of experience, and free of the twin scourges of Prohibition and phylloxera, Chile has yet to attain its full potential.

This promise continues to attract winemakers from around the world. One of the French concerns is the Marnier Lapostolle family, founders and owners of the famous orange liqueur Grand Marnier, as well as other spirits. Lapostolle was established in 1994, with the goal of creating top-quality wines using French expertise and the unique terroirs of Chile.

Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay 2009

The home of this wine is the Atalayas vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, in the Coastal Cordillera, 47 miles west of Santiago. Atalayas was originally planted in 1997, and enjoys cool coastal winds and a low annual rainfall. 100% of Atalayas vineyard is under organic and biodynamic agriculture management.

This is the rare white that will benefit from thirty minutes or so of ‘breathing’ before pouring. While you’re waiting, admire its bright lemon-yellow color and nose of citrus and melon. This wine suggests grapefruit on the palate, which is supported by its zippy acidity. There is oak, but it is well integrated and in a secondary role. Look for a hint of crème brûlée on the finish. Fermentation was on 68% new and used French oak, as well as 32% stainless steel. 20% of the total underwent a further malolactic fermentation.

This wine would go nicely with Braised Snapper and Mussels, Shrimp in a Picante Sauce, or Chicken à la Chinita.

Canto de Apalta 2011

The horseshoe-shaped Apalta vineyard is located 124 miles southwest of Santiago, 42 miles away from the Pacific Ocean, between the Andes mountain range and the Coastal Cordillera. The first vines in Apalta were planted in 1920, and some of these were transplants that had originally been brought from France at the end of the 19th century. Apalta is also 100% under organic and biodynamic management.

“Song of Apalta” is a Bordeaux-style red blend that was born from the relationship between Carmenère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. All fermentations were made with wild yeasts and minimal intervention on the part of the winemaking team.

Here’s a food-friendly wine that is also good for quaffing. It is rich garnet in the glass, with delicate legs. The nose shows spice and eucalyptus, as well as black and red fruits. The body is light in the mouth, with flavors of ripe red berries and figs. These are backed up by medium tannins and a surprising amount of acidity. The wine has a medium-length finish.

Serve with Roast Beef in a Black Pepper Crust, Leg of Lamb with Pistachios, or Lemon Veal Chops.

http://www.colchaguavalley.cl/en/2012/07/lapostolle-presenta-canto-de-apalta/

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Luke Donald Wine

Luke Donald WineThe Donald

No, this month’s wines aren’t associated with Donald Trump (a teetotaler, by the way), but rather, English professional golfer Luke Donald. The Luke Donald Wine Collection is the result of a collaboration between Donald and Bill Terlato, head of the behemoth wine distribution operation, Terlato Wines International.

Terlato first met Donald when the golfer was a student at Northwestern University. Terlato took lessons from Donald’s coach, Pat Goss, who initially suggested the two get together. Along with an interest in golf, the two men shared an interest in sports cars and ultimately, wine.

Golfer-endorsed wines are a growing trend, and already include such players as Ernie Els, Nick Faldo, David Frost, Cristie Kerr, Jack Nicklaus, Greg Norman, and Arnold Palmer. In 2006, Terlato approached Donald with the idea of creating a pair of wines for him under the Luke Donald label. He was adamant, however, that he didn’t want merely a celebrity endorser. Terlato wanted someone who would be involved in the development of the product. The wines that resulted from this partnership are serious wines, rather than a vanity effort (and are priced accordingly).

Chardonnay 2010

This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from vineyards in the Carnaros AVA, which lies at the northern end of San Pablo Bay (the northern section of San Francisco Bay).

The wine is pale yellow in the glass. On entry, it offers a full mouthfeel. That buttery sensation continues to develop on the palate, followed by just the right amount of acidity.

For this wine’s flavor profile, Donald looked to the white Burgundies of France. The flavor is predominantly of tart citrus fruits; the wood (25% new French oak, 75% used French oak) is there, but is nicely balanced.

Enjoy this wine with Summer Vegetable Stir-fry with Couscous, Braised Greek Chicken and Artichokes, or Almond-crusted Sole with Leek-and-lemon Cream.

Claret 2009

Befitting Donald’s background, this red wine blend is a Claret. Although “claret” has no legal definition, it is generally a term used by the English when referring to certain red wines of Bordeaux with a light, refreshing style.

This easy-drinking red blend (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 100% Napa Valley) is transparent ruby in color. The taste features wild black berries and subtle spice notes. This is supported by well-integrated tannins.

This Claret would go well with Chicken Simmered with Cream and Onions, Roast Duck with Cherries, or Braised Ham with Mushroom Stuffing.

These wines are limited production, each limited to less than 1000 cases, but are well worth seeking out.

https://www.golferswines.com/golfer/luke-donald

 

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Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon and ChardonnayAn American in Paris

Steven Spurrier is an Englishman who once owned a wine shop in Paris that catered to the English-speaking expatriate community. In 1976, in order to drum up interest in his business, he hit upon the idea of holding a blind tasting pitting ten of France’s and California’s best producers against one another. He was able to enlist nine esteemed French wine experts as judges, among them Odette Kahn, editor of the influential Revue du Vin de France; and Christian Vannequé, sommelier of the three-star Parisian restaurant La Tour d’Argent. The French wines included the 1970 Haut-Brion, the 1970 Mouton Rothschild, and the 1973 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles.

The famous tasting, held May 24, 1976, at Paris’ InterContinental Hotel, has come to be known as The Judgement of Paris. Neither Spurrier, a Francophile to the core, nor anyone else expected the upstart Yanks to really put up a fight against the French heavyweights. However, when the votes were tallied, the judges were shocked to discover they had awarded the top prize for the red to the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, and top prize for the white to Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, both from Napa Valley. It was the shock heard ‘round the world, and legitimized California as a world-class wine-making region.

George M. Taber, the Time magazine correspondent present at the time, details the event in Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine. The story was also dramatized in the 2008 film Bottle Shock.

Thirty years later, in May of 2006, as a celebration of the original Judgement, the same wines were retasted to gauge their aging potential. The French were confident that here the weak Californians would stumble. Instead, mon dieu, they placed first through fifth. Boo Ya!

Chateau Montelena has seen three cycles of family stewardship. The first began in 1882 when the winery was founded by Alfred L. Tubbs, a European immigrant and San Fransciso entrepreneur. The original property was 254 acres of rugged, well drained, stony, and loose land just two miles north of Calistoga at the base of Mount Saint Helena. (Montelena is a contracted form of Mount Saint Helena.) By 1896 Tubbs’ winery was the seventh largest in the Napa Valley.

The Tubbs family sold the winery in 1958, at which time the Chateau and its overgrown grounds passed into the hands of Yort and Jeanie Frank, who were looking for a peaceful spot to retire. The setting inspired Frank to excavate a lake and add landscaping to reflect the Chinese gardens of his homeland.

The modern renaissance of Chateau Montelena started under the leadership of Jim Barrett, who purchased the winery in 1972. The vineyard was cleared and replanted, and the winery was renovated and outfitted with modern winemaking equipment, complemented by the highest-quality grapes from the Napa Valley. In 1972 wines were made for the first time, and shortly thereafter Chateau Montelena stunned the wine world with its win at the 1976 Paris Tasting. The winery continues today with Jim Barrett at the helm.

Napa Valley Chardonnay 2008

This Chardonnay started by being harvested at night in order to preserve delicate flavors and aromas. The wine is brilliantly clear with a golden-straw color. The nose suggests pear and tropical passion fruit. On the palate, there are flavors of juicy peach, citrus notes of pink grapefruit, honey tangerine, and starfruit, conveyed by an appealing softness. The mid-palate features an understated, nutty, oak tone which segues into an interesting long and spicy finish. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% French barrels, 11% of which were new.

Serve this legendary wine with Morroccan Lemon Chicken, Sea Bass with Gingered Broth, Risotto with Scallops, or, if your dinner guests are French, Crow.

Napa Valley Cabernet 2006

Although famous for their Chardonnay, Montelena makes a number of reds as well, including this Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc.

Dark ruby in color, this wine offers rich, complex aromas of ripe dark cherry, plum, cinnamon, and tobacco, with top notes of earth and forest floor. In the mouth, this wine makes a full soft round entry, after which the acid builds nicely, supporting the dominant flavor of black currant, plus licorice and spice. Plenty of fine-grain tannin completes the mouthfeel. Nice notes of toasted oak round out the tremendous long finish. This is a very well-balanced wine that will age for ten to twelve years, if you have the patience.

Pair this Cabernet with Tenderloin of Beef with Blue Cheese, Cider-Braised Pork Medallions, or Broiled Lamb Chops.

https://montelena.com/

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Charles Krug Winery

Charles Krug Winery
Click here for tasting notes.

After stints as a teacher, political activist, newspaper editor, U.S. Treasury employee, and inventor, in 1861 the restless German immigrant Charles Krug established the very first commercial winery in Napa Valley.

Krug was not only a pioneer, but was innovative and inspirational as well. He became the major local winery figure of his era. He introduced the cider press for winemaking (no more foot stomping!), and carefully selected rootstocks, varietals, and vineyards, a novel approach to winemaking at the time.

Upon Krug’s death in 1892, James Moffitt became proprietor of the winery, and succeeded in keeping it open during the dark days of Prohibition. In 1943, Robert Mondavi persuaded his parents, Cesare and Rosa, to purchase the winery from Moffitt for $75,000. Robert Mondavi developed his wine career there, until he founded his own winery in 1966 and went on to become one of the greatest legends in all of California’s wine industry.

Cesare rejuvinated the winery, and reestablished it as one of Napa’s premier producers. Following Cesare’s death in 1959, Rosa ran the winery until 1976 when it was inherited by Peter Mondavi, Sr.

Innovation continued under Peter, who introduced vintage dating, cold fermentation, cold filtration, and fermentation in small French oak barrels. He was active in the affairs of the winery nearly up until his death in 2016 at the age of 101.  The operation continues under the guidance of his sons Mark and Peter Jr.

Carneros Chardonnay 2010

The color of this 100% chardonnay in the glass is bright yellow with a hint of green. The nose features aromas of tropical fruit, particularly lime, and fermenting bread dough. On the palate, the citrus and peach flavors are balanced with a lively acidity. There is a surprisingly creamy mouthfeel, complemented by a lingering finish. Fermentation was 70% stainless steel and 30% barrel, so the oak is present but not overbearing.

Please your guests and yourself by serving this wine with Chicken ala Kiev, Sea Bass Stuffed with Crabmeat, or Scallops Sauteed in Garlic Butter.

Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

This cabernet sauvignon favors elegance and finesse over power. The dark purple color is more transparent than inky. Black cherry dominates the nose. The taste displays the same dark fruit, abetted with cocoa and hints of tobacco and vanilla. The supple tannins help to support a relatively long finish. The blend includes 84% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 4% petit verdot, and 2% cabernet franc. Fermentation was for 20 months in French and American oak.

Enjoy this wine with Steak Diane, Ragout of Lamb, Herb-stuffed Pork Chops with Wine Sauce, or just with some honest bread and artisanal cheeses.

https://www.charleskrug.com/

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Hook and Ladder Winery

Hook and Ladder WineryC’mon Baby, Light My Fire

Looking toward his eventual retirement, in 1970 San Francisco firefighter Cecil De Loach bought 24 acres of old-vine Zinfandel in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County. For six years De Loach worked the acreage part time, selling grapes to other producers, as neophyte winemakers often do. In 1976 De Loach released his first wine, 1,000 cases of a vintage 1975 Zinfandel, and in so doing became one of the first Russian River wineries.

After a 16-year career, De Loach retired from the San Francisco Fire Department in 1982. But this allowed him to work the winery full time, and over the next two decades he grew production to 250,000 cases annually. Not only was he one of Sonoma county’s wine pioneers, during this time he was also extremely active as a promoter and advocate of Sonoma wines.

Unhappily, De Loach ran into financial difficulties in the late 1990s, and filed for bankruptcy in 2003. (The De Loach label continues, however, having been purchased by the Boisset family of Burgundy, France.)

He could have called it quits at that point, but De Loach postponed his retirement yet again. In 2004 he founded Hook & Ladder Winery, the name an obvious nod to his first career as a firefighter, having been a tillerman steering the rear wheels of a hook and ladder fire truck. (He was forced to leave his eponymous label behind because a non-compete agreement prevents his own name from ever again appearing on a wine bottle, a testament to his stature in the Sonoma wine industry.)

Still in the Russian River Valley today, De Loach now works 375 acres in the cool climate there, with his wife, son, grandson, and granddaughter all employed at Hook & Ladder.

Hook & Ladder “The Tillerman” 2005

A single-vineyard blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, and 17% Sangiovese. Plenty of ripe fruits, with a supporting cast of cassis, spice, cedar, and leather. A somewhat short finish. After decanting for an hour, serve with pork satay and peanut dipping sauce, or prime rib paired with madeira sauce.

Hook & Ladder Chardonnay 2006

This wine is a very light yellow-green, pale almost to the point of being colorless. Fermented in a combination of stainless steel and seasoned French oak barrels to retain its crisp acidity. The tart citrus flavors are balanced with just a hint of oak from the not-new barrels. (Oaky, buttery chardonnays are on the wane, I for one am sorry to report.) This chard features bright but delicate aromas of just-ripe apple, pear, and mango. Good now, but should be more appealing in warmer weather. Would contrast nicely with richer seafood such as truffled lobster risotto or rosemary-roasted salmon.

https://www.hookandladderwinery.com/

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Craggy Range Winery

Craggy Range WineryWines from the Wasteland

Although wine production started in New Zealand as early as 1819, that nation of beer drinkers didn’t really start to get serious about it until the mid 1960s, time-wise much like California. Real success didn’t come until the early ‘80s, however, with the varietal New Zealand has become famous for, sauvignon blanc. The first release to get wide attention was the 1979 from Montana Wines (New Zealand’s biggest wine maker) and an even more compelling product followed from Cloudy Bay Vineyards in 1985, finally putting “the land of the long white cloud” on the world’s wine-making map.

In 1876 the Ngaruroro River in the Hawkes Bay region severely flooded and changed course, leaving behind a large new tract of gravelly soil. At first, the plan was to turn this infertile ‘wasteland’ into a quarry. Before that project got underway, however, local winemakers claimed the land as their own and began planting vines.

Terry Peabody and Steve Smith established Craggy Range in Hawkes Bay in 1997, recognizing the area’s potential to deliver first-rate wines. Their goal was to make single-vineyard wines – wines that are true expressions of the vineyard’s terroir.

Peabody handles the ‘front office’ at Craggy Range, while Smith is the senior winemaker and certified Master of Wine. Decanter magazine and Wine and Spirits magazine have named him as one of the fifty most influential people in the world of wine.

Chardonnay 2008

Kidnappers Vineyard is located on the Hawkes Bay coastline at Te Awanga where the climate is warm and sunny and the soil is predominantly clay loam.
This wine introduces itself with a very pale straw color and lemony nose. The citrus notes continue on the palate, abetted by tastes of mineral and oyster shell. The finish suggests clove and grapefruit.

This wine would pair well with Grilled Scallops with Raspberry-Thyme Beurre Blanc, Lemon-Basil Basated Shrimp, and Mixed Grill of Summer Vegetables.

Te Kahu Proprietary Red 2006

Te Kahu means The Cloak in the native Maori language. Legend has it that the mists rolling down the valley are the cloak of a beautiful maiden laying at the feet of her lover, the fallen giant Te Mafa.

This lean, restrained wine is a classic Bordeaux blend of 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec, and is very much in the European style. The bouquet offers notes of dark plum, blueberry, cedar, and a hint of oak. The palate adds elements of earth and dusty cocoa powder supported by moderate tannins. The finish is relatively short.

Let this wine breathe for at least two hours, then serve with Paprika Chicken or Braised Lamb Shanks with White Beans.

https://www.craggyrange.com/

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Pedroncelli Winery

Pedroncelli WineryPedroncelli was founded in 1927 in Geyerserville, California, during the middle of Prohibition, and began by selling grapes to local home winemakers. After Repeal in 1933, Pedroncelli began to make their own wines in a winery that had been sidelined as a barn.

In 1949, John Pedroncelli Jr., son of the founder, made and released the label’s first Zinfandel, using fruit from vines still being harvested today, the so-called Mother Clone. The first Cabernet Sauvingnon appeared in 1966.

In the late ‘70s, Pedroncelli transitioned out of the jug wines they had been making and began to focus on mainstream varietals, and the ‘80s saw the beginning of an extensive vineyard replanting effort.

82 years later, Pedroncelli continues to be owned and operated by the founding family.

Mother Clone Zinfandel 2006

This straightforward Zinfandel is a clear ruby red in the glass. The taste is quite dry, even astringent, with a hint of dust. The pepper note often characteristic of Zin is present but not dominant, and is balanced by aromas of boysenberry and blackberry. The finish is moderately short. After decanting for at least an hour, pair this with just about anything from the grill.

Chardonnay 2007

Made from 100% Chardonnay, this wine much more resembles a Sauvignon Blanc. It has plenty of citrus tartness, balanced by undertones of melon and pear. If you’re not a fan of wood, although 30% of the wine was aged in oak it’s almost not detectable.

http://www.pedroncelli.com/

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Deerfield Ranch Winery

deerfield ranch winery
Between a Rock and a
Wet Place

Sonoma County is situated between Napa County to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Sonoma has over 175 wineries, second only to the somewhat more famous Napa in number of U. S. wineries.

The Sonoma Valley AVA [American Viticultural Area] is in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, and is home to Deerfield Ranch Winery. This boutique winery is owned and operated by the affable and effusive Robert Rex. He makes the wine, and his wife PJ manages the business side. Many wineries today tout themselves as “small, family-run,” but this one truly is.

Deerfield Ranch is a certified organic producer, even now still one of the few in Sonoma County, with an annual output of about 15,000 cases.

Trained as a chemist, in 1972 Robert was given a winemaking kit by then-girlfriend PJ in appreciation for keeping her finicky Alfa Romeo running. That first Zinfandel won Best of Show at the California State Fair, and Robert soon left the chemistry lab in favor of the wine cave.

Robert is an enthusiastic proponent of the art of blending wines, and says, “Making wine is like gourmet cooking. We start with the finest ingredients. By drawing from 26 vineyards we get grapes from appellations where varietals grow the best. We allow the grapes to fully vine ripen, and use the most gentle production techniques. We make wine by hand in small lots; the wines are clean, have very low histamine and sulfite levels, so that they produce no headaches or allergic reactions.”

Los Chamizal Chardonnay 2009

This pale-gold elixer opens with delicate aromas of honey and apricot. The French white oak in which it was barreled for 10 months is present in the taste, but plays a subtle supporting role to the balanced acidity and flavors of green apple, fresh mint, and grapefruit.

Try this wine with Sauteed Black Sea Bass with Red Peppers, Grilled Herbed Salmon with Shrimp, or Chicken Burgers with Chive Sauce.

Red Rex 2006

Showcasing Robert Rex’s ideas about blending, Red Rex is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. The ratio is on the bottle, but you’re unlikely to get the same results if you try the recipe at home!

After harvest, the wine was barrel aged for 36 months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Red Rex is nearly opaque without being cloudy, with a nose of dark cherries, berries, and spice box. On the palate, the wine tends toward a leaner French style; there is a medium-weight feel, with flavors of the same cherries and berries, complemented by black pepper and minerals, then ending in a medium finish.

This is Deerfield’s most popular wine; enjoy it with Boeuf Bourguignon, Hamburger au Poivre with Red-Wine Sauce, or Pork Chops Milanese.

https://www.deerfieldranch.com/home.html

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Annika Vineyards Chardonnay

Annika Vineyards Chardonnay
A joint venture between LPGA golfer Annika Sorenstam and Wente Vineyards, Annika Vineyard’s second offering was a 2008 Chardonnay. It joined the 2006 Syrah which was the winery’s inaugural release.

The pale-golden Annika Chardonnay opens with the classic aromas of pear and apple. The mouthfeel is soft and lush, with a palate of cantaloupe, apricot, peach, and tangerine. The slightly sweet sensation is balanced by just enough acidity to be refreshing. The finish features toasty vanilla and ground spice flavors.

Sorenstam, working closely with winemaker Karl Wente, selected Chardonnay grapes from two Wente estate vineyards; these vineyards were chosen for their exceptional fruit and production consistency. After the grapes were picked and sorted by hand, the wine underwent a long, cool barrel fermentation in a combination of French, American, Eastern European, and neutral oak, and was aged for 17 months.

Located just east of San Francisco in the historic Livermore Valley, Wente Vineyards is the country’s oldest continuously operated family-owned winery. After learning about winemaking from Charles Krug, C. H. Wente, a first-generation immigrant from Germany, founded the winery in 1883 on 48 acres that offered the ideal grape-growing criteria of warm days, cool nights, and gravelly soils.

The winery is led today by the fourth- and fifth-generations of the Wente family. Blending traditional and innovative winemaking practices, the winery now draws from 3,000 acres of sustainably farmed estate vineyards.

http://cwcwines.com/menu-item/annika-vineyard/

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Migration Wines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Migration WinesDuckhorn Portfolio is the umbrella corporation of an expanding wine mini-empire. First came the flagship Duckhorn Vineyards, established in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn to pioneer and feature premium Napa Merlot. (Duckhorn has a “second growth” label named Decoy, as well.) Next came Paraduxx in 1994, specializing in Zinfandel-based blends. This was followed by Goldeneye, which began making Pinot Noir in 1996.  Migration was established in 2001 to focus first on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Unlike the estate-centered efforts of the other labels, Migration is dedicated to going beyond its Anderson Valley origins and exploring Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from many of California’s cool-climate appellations, including the Russian River Valley.

Migration was initially guided by young rising-star winemaker Neil Bernardi. A native of northern California, Bernardi studied at the University of California, Davis, the academic epicenter of California viticulture.

After taking degrees in Italian and enology, Bernardi set off for New Zealand and found work with three famous wineries there, including Kim Crawford. Once back in the States, he became assistant cellarmaster at Quintessa, and then joined the Duckhorn family as enologist at Goldeneye. Bernardi became Migration’s winemaker in 2009. He has stated, “Traditionally the character of a particular wine is connected to a specific place. Migration offers a different paradigm. We are starting with a clearly defined style and exploring how that style can be expressed in different regions.” Following his success at Migration, Neil is now Vice President & General Manager – Kosta Browne, Canvasback.

in 2017, following her tenure as the winemaker for Decoy, Dana Epperson became  the winemaker for Migration, where she has established a reputation for a style of winemaking that seamlessly balances vibrancy and finesse.

Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2008

This first-ever Migration Chardonnay is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from Green Valley, an especially cool region of the Russian River Valley, and three other vineyards. It matured for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels.

The wine introduces itself with a light gold color and lemony nose. The palate features citrus, stone fruit, custard, and a hint of licorice, supported by good acidity and subtle oak. This unique and harmonious combination is both zippy and mellow.

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2007

The dry winter and cool summer of 2007 in Anderson Valley was particularly suited to Pinot Noir, allowing the grapes to ripen super-slowly and evenly.

This Pinot Noir is 100% varietal, and matured for 16 months in 100% French oak. This deep-garnet, medium-bodied wine opens on the nose with blackberry and strawberry notes. The palate is dry, silky, and dominated by tart dark cherry, and supported by a backbone of oak, blackberry, and well-balanced tannins. It ends with a medium-length finish.

https://www.migrationwines.com/

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Clos du Bois Wine

Clos du Bois
Over the River and Through the Woods

Although it sounds French, the Clos du Bois [klow doo bwa] winery is definitely American. Clos du Bois was founded in 1974 by Frank Woods, who planned on simply naming his new winery “Woods Vineyard.” His children, who were studying French at the time, suggested the more exotic “Clos du Bois” instead, which loosely translates to “enclosure in the woods.”

Clos du Bois is located in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, northwest of Napa Valley. I’ve long been a fan of wines from this AVA (American Viticultural Area); they’re always reliable, and when made with skill and care can be exceptional.

Clos du Bois’ estate vineyards (those vineyards owned by the winery) are influenced by the ocean winds and fog that moderate late afternoon temperatures in the growing season, as well as by the Russian River, which runs through the valley, and eons ago laid down the well-drained, gravelly soil types on which grapes thrive.

The winery’s initial releases included a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc were added in the ‘80s, followed by Zinfandel in the early ‘90s to round out the portfolio.

Today, Clos du Bois makes an extensive variety of wines in three distinct series. The Classic series is value-priced and widely available. The Sonoma Reserve series focuses on specific appellations within Sonoma County, revealing the special characteristics that makes each unique. The Proprietary series are limited quantity selections personally overseen by winemaker Erik Olsen. The following wines are from the Proprietary series.

Marlstone 2005

Named for the soil from which it comes, Marlstone stands as Sonoma County’s first Bordeaux-blend red wine. The initial vintage was 1978, and a consortium of California winemakers would go on to later designate this style of winemaking ‘meritage.’ (See the Wine Terms page.)

This smooth, balanced wine started in 100% French oak barrels for 18 months. It is rich, dark purple in appearance. The nose shows youthful blackcurrant fruit supported by cedar and tobacco. The flavor follows the aroma and offers chewy tannins, a nice extraction of fruit, and moderate oak.

Serve this wine with rich dishes such as chateaubriand with bernaise sauce, grilled lamb chops with garlic and rosemary, or prime rib of beef.

Calcaire 2007

Calcaire is French for chalky or limestone, reflecting this wine’s Russian River Valley terroir. (See the Wine Terms page.) The wine was barrel fermented in French oak and aged for eight months. In the glass, the color is medium gold with an unassuming nose. This Chardonnay exhibits flavors of lively citrus, baked apple, and lemon custard. The oak and minerality are present, but well integrated into the whole.

Pair this elegant wine with lobster in lemon butter, salmon souffle, or spaghetti with clams.

https://www.closdubois.com/

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Lot 25 Wine

Lot 25 Wine
Secret Agent, Man

Lot 205 is the undercover label of the well-regarded Cartlidge and Browne winery. Although they acknowledge their Rabid, Manzanita Canyon, and Stratford sub-brands, Lot 205 is their secret agent, for reasons known only to them (the price points of all of these labels are approximately the same).

The name is taken from C&B’s former street address in American Canyon at the southern end of Napa Valley. The fruit, however, is sourced from growers throughout California.

Winemaker Paul Moser leans toward the French style, with an emphasis on the correct expression of the grape variety; the predominance of fruit over oak; making the wines dry and food-friendly; keeping the alcohol levels in check; and offering good value in table wines meant for everyday consumption.

Lot 205 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This wine is primarily Paso Robles Cabernet (82%) and Merlot (12%). The taste is fruit-forward, with dominant cherry supported by tobacco and mocha notes. It has a medium body and color, and is well-balanced by smooth, restrained tannins.

Partner this cab with jerk-rubbed chicken thighs, balsamic-marinated flank steak, and grilled lamb chops.

Lot 205 Chardonnay 2006

Although present, oak is a supporting player in this chardonnay, letting the apple, citrus, and pineapple come to the fore. It’s a bit sweeter than I expected, with a hint of butterscotch.

http://www.cartlidgeandbrowne.com/index.html#top

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Mossback Winery

Mossback Chardonnay and Pinot NoirThe Russian River AVA sits in the center of northern California’s Sonoma County, and is characterized by a generally cool climate, with sunny days bracketed by fog early and late. This encourages the slow-ripening of fruit, particularly suitable for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc, like these selections from Mossback Winery.

John Giguiere, with his wife Lane and brother Karl, started R.H. Phillips Winery in 1983 on land that was part of their family farm in the Dunnigan Hills of northwestern Yolo County, 30 miles east of the more-famous Napa. Over the course of 20 years, the Giguieres grew R.H. Phillips from a family winery of 10 acres and a few cases into a publicly-owned behemoth producing 900,000 cases of wine on 2500 acres, including the best-selling Toasted Head and EXP as well as R.H. Phillips.

When John and Lane left the company in 2005 to return to more-personalized winemaking, they were joined by Dan Cederquiest to found Crew Wine Company, which produces a variety of wines, including Matchbook.

Mossback is an old-fashioned term for “farmer,” and is an homage from the Crew trio to the farmers on which they rely to supply the fruit for their Russian River offerings.

Mossback Russian River Valley Chardonnay2009

The impression of this wine is as understated as its pale yellow color would suggest. Made in the style of a French Chablis, the wine is 80% cold fermented in stainless steel to retain acidity and as much of the character of the fruit as possible.

The delicate nose presents citrus notes, and the taste features green apples, baked honey, and a hint of melon. 1,093 cases were bottled of this 100% Chardonnay.

This food-friendly wine would pair nicely with Grilled Scallops Wrapped in Proscuitto, Grilled Salmon Burgers, or Hoisin Honey-Glazed Chicken.

Mossback Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2009

This elegant Pinot Noir is 97% Pinot Noir with 3% Syrah added for additional structure. The fruit was sourced from three well-regarded Russian River Valley vineyards. After fermentation, the juice was aged in French oak for nine months.

In the glass, the color is a pleasing cherry red. There is almost no nose, but don’t be discouraged by that. On the palate, the fruit displays plenty of tart cherry and strawberry, supported by a bit of cream and vanilla. There is a medium finish, with no bitterness or aftertaste.

Enjoy this Pinot with Grilled Turkey Burgers with Yogurt-Cucumber Sauce, Salmon Fillets with Sesame Crust, or Vegetarian Shish Kabobs.

https://www.matchbookwines.com/

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Truchard Vineyards Chardonnay 2008 and Pinot Noir 2007

Truchard VineyardsTruchard Vineyards was established in 1974, when native Texans Tony and Jo Ann Truchard purchased a 20-acre parcel of land in Carneros. They transformed what was an abandoned prune orchard into a vineyard, and began selling the fruit to a local winery. Because of the difficult clay soil he had to work with, as well as a dearth of groundwater, Truchard was one of the early adapters of drip irrigation, a practice that was used in Israel for desert farming but not known in California yet. The Truchard Estate Vineyard has since grown to 400 acres, of which 280 are planted.

In 1989, the Truchards began making wine for themselves (even as Tony continued his practice as a physician), using only their estate-grown fruit. Today the winery makes 12 different wines, producing a total of 16,000 cases per year. The Truchard’s remain active at the winery even now, along with able assistance from their son, Anthony Truchard II who serves as General Manager. Their winemaker (and Milwaukee native) is Sal De Ianni. Originally a chemist, De Ianni was sufficiently drawn to wine that he took his M.S. in Enology at UC Davis. In 1998, he responded to a help wanted ad posted by the Truchards, and has been with the winery ever since.

As the most Northeastern vineyard in the Carneros region, Truchard is situated on the foothills of what becomes the Mayacama mountain range and Mount Veeder. The Truchard Estate contains a variety of soils: clay, shale, sandstone, volcanic rock and ash, and enjoys marine-moderated temperatures.

Truchard Chardonnay 2008

A light-yellow colored Chardonnay that starts with pear, citrus, and a hint of sweet banana. The palate is full bodied, with its acidity balanced by flavors of tart green apple, lime, and very light oak. The finish is dry, with suggestions of lemon pith and spice.

Try this Chard with Roasted Trout, Squid with Spinach, or Shrimp with Canellini Beans.

Truchard Pinot Noir 2007

This lean, Old World-style Pinot Noir opens with a bouquet of plum, red berry, and tea. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied and balanced, starting with a bit of sweet vanilla and moving on to spicy oak, cranberry, leather, and tobacco. The finish is dry, with delicate tannins and a hint of bitterness.

People who don’t like “fruit bombs” will enjoy this wine. This Pinot should pair well with Fried Veal Cutlets in Tomato Sauce, Peppery Beef Stew, and Meatloaf.

https://www.truchardvineyards.com/

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Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz

Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz

I Come from a Land Down Under

In this post I sample two uncommon wines that only have one thing in common: they both come from Australia’s McLaren Vale.

Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz 2002

Some say that if the light of the moon is just right, the ghost of Cockfighter the horse can be seen galloping through the vineyards of Pooles Rock.

Perhaps. The wine named in his memory is anything but ephemeral, however. Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz first greets you with a powerful nose of earth and dark berry fruit. The berry and black plum flavors continue on the palate, supported by some spice, black pepper, and oak. The color is a dense, dark crimson.

After letting this shiraz ‘breathe’ for at least an hour to soften its edges, serve with rare roast beef and field mushrooms, spicy sausages with tomatoes and Italian beans, or oven-roasted rack of lamb.

https://cockfightersghost.com.au/product/single-vineyard-shiraz-2016/

Tapestry Chardonnay 2005

This chardonnay is an excellent value, with more character than its relatively low price would predict.

The wine spent nine months on-lees in new French oak, and features a very appealing balance of juicy stone fruit and a citrus acidity, supported by the spicy, toasty oak, with a moderately long finish. There was no malo-lactic fermentation. The color is pale straw with green tints.

Serve lightly chilled with coquille St. Jacques, fried calamari, or grilled whole red snapper.

[Unfortunately, Tapestry Wines is now reported closed.}

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